Honda Accord EX

Book time for the evaporator is 2 hours, follow the a.c. lines to the fire wall and under the dash on that side attatched to the evaporator will be your expansion valve.

twelve dollars

there is a cable that runs from the trunk release lever to the latch inside the trunk. you should be able to disconnect it from the latch inside the trunk

you may have a clogged fuel filter, or a bad distributor. try fuel filter first

get reservior heated , unplug hoses from squirters, add rubbing alcohol to tank and flush, refill with -40 windshield antifreeze.

You need to check the crank sensor at the harmonic balancer. when it gets hot, it stalls the engine. let it cool for a few moments then it starts again. If it's hot and stalss and won't start; try spraying water around the balancer, to cool the sensor. Then see if it starts.

The 3.5 litre V6 engine in a 2007 Honda Pilot has a timing BELT

Check the #6 fuse. If it is good then the VSS needs replacing.

The 2001 Honda Accord has a 8 ft. 10.9 in. (106.9 in.) wheel base.

The 2001 Honda Accord has 16 valves.

The abs and asc warning lights come on when there is a problem with the ABS computer or the ABS Module you should have it taken to the dealer immediatly if your car is an automatic. The computer also will prevent your speedometer from working and thus cause problems with your transmission computer in 3rd and 4th gear. If your car is a manual you are okay to drive but your Safety features such as the ABS and traction control (ASC) will not work :(.

Remove the sparkplug cables, breather hose, and remove the valve cover. The gasket is a permanent type and comes as a 5 piece kit that simply pushes into groves in the valve cover. Once installed, replace the valve cover and connect the breather hoses and sparkplug cables.

first off buy a repair manual for like $20. There's a two prong blue plug that hangs under the dash on the passengers side. Turn ur key to the on position then use a paper clip to use as a jumper to the two prong holes on that plug and watch the flashes of your check engine light. it will flash so many times then pause and flash again so many times. the amount of flashes tells u the first digit then pauses and then gives u the second digit of the engine code. so u'll have a blink with a pause then four more blinks, that means your engine code would be 14. A dealer or repair manual will tell you what that code means.

On the V6 the belt and water pump must be replaced every 105,000 miles. The 4 cylinder has a chain that requires no maintenance.

Depends on the condition of the vehicle, the miles on it, if it is a DX, LX, or EX, and 4 cylinder or V6. You will take a real beating on the price of a vehicle that has a blown head gasket. You will have to drop the price at least $2,000 below what it would sell for if it was in good shape. The price you get will depend on how nice the car is. If for instance it is an LX 4 cylinder with 150,000 miles in excellent condition it would be worth around $4,200 retail and around $2,500 wholesale. You could expect to get around $3,500 in a private sale. But with the blown head gasket you would be lucky to get $1,000. Ask yourself who wants to buy a car with an engine that may have been severely damage by the blown gasket and someone who just kept driving it? It may need a complete engine overhaul so any prospective buyer will factor that in.

Before starting on setting up the timing marks, the crankshaft and camshaft must be positioned on the number one cylinder. This is an interference engine, so rotation of the crank and cam are limited. Making the assumption that you are not on the number one cylinder then some addition work will need to be done. Remove the rocker arm assemble. This will allow all valves to be closed all the time. Rotate the crankshaft to top dead center (White mark on the flywheel). Rotate the cam shaft so that the rib of the timing belt pulley with the word up, which is stamped on the Pulley is vertical. That is the word up is on the highest point in the rotation of the cam shaft. Reinstall the rocker arm assemble. The camshaft pulley has two marks stamped in the teeth 90 degrees right and left of the word "Up". Align these marks with the top of the head. Check that the crankshaft is still on the white mark. Loosen the nut for the idler pulleys. You can now move the idler pulley up and down. There is a slot on the bracket of the idler pulley for the cam timing belt where a setup bold can be installed. Install this bolt but do not tighten it yet. Press down on the idler against the spring tension and tighten the setup bolt. This will keep you from fighting the spring when you are putting the timing belt on. Install the timing belt, remove the setup bolt, tighten the nut for the idler pulleys and rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise two turns until the word up on the camshaft pulley is at the top and the crankshaft is at top dead center. Do not turn the crank clockwise at all. If you miss the TDC go around counter clockwise another two turns. Turning the engine allows the belt to track. Loosen the idler nut and retighten it. This allows belt tension to set after the belt has found it tracking point. Recheck that the cam marks are aligning with the head and that the crank is at top dead center. The second belt drives the counter balance shafts. To set this belt up, make sure that the crank is TDC on number one (word up at the top). The front pulley has a mark stamped in the teeth and is set to a raised mark on the front of the engine casting. There is a bolt on the back of the engine about three inches from the back pulley. This bolt is a plug for a setup hole. Remove the bolt. Use a quarter inch drill bit and insert it in the hole. Turn the back pulley while feeling for a hole in the counter shaft with the drill bit. It feels a little strange but you'll know when you hit the hole. Once the drill bit is in the hole of the shaft, just center the bit in the setup hole. Loosen the idler nut and install the belt. Tighten the idler nut and go through the drill of rotating the engine two turn. Loosen the idler nut and retighten. Recheck that all mark lineup at TDC.

They can go about 150 mph

two plugwires were off when car started and ran for 15 seconds

There is a 2 piece installation kit available, the first piece replaces the center of the dash for the new radio install (next to glove compartment it cost approximately $23. The second piece covers up the hole left in the dash where the old radio was and is a square storage box cost is $14. both are available at stereo install stores

Possibly. What an exhaust leak will do is KILL you. Either from the Carbon Monoxide you inhale while driving or the wreck you are going to have when it puts you to sleep. Get the exhaust leak fixed ASAP.

Not sure about a 1995, but when I questioned my Honda dealer about the filter on my 1998 Accord, he said it was not necessary to change it. Great Writeup by Jon: Okay, guys. I just got done changing the fuel filter on my 1994 Honda Accord, and it was a real bi*ch. So, I thought that I would take a few minutes to write up a thread giving recommendations on how to make the job easier based on what I went through. I promise you, if you follow my advice, this job will be a lot easier. This is not a job that you want to embark on without sufficient knowledge and the right tools for the job. So, take a few minutes and read what I'm about to write. I promise you won't regret it.

In case you haven't found it, the fuel filter on the 1994 Accord is located directly below the master cylinder inside the engine compartment. There is a banjo bolt on the top, a flare nut fitted metal brake line on the back, and a bracket holding it in place that has two 10mm bolts in it. You have VERY little space to work with, so make damn sure that you've got the right tools for the job. Otherwise, you'll end up tool-throwing mad like I was. I started taking it apart, but had to put everything back together and go get the right stuff to complete the task. Then, once I had it, the job took me less than 30 minutes.

First off, gather your tools. I put the front of the car up on jack stands, so I recommend you have a pair of those and a floor jack to raise your car up. Also, make sure you have a drain or drip pan to catch the fuel you're bound to lose. That way, you don't leak all over your driveway. THE MOST IMPORTANT TOOL FOR THIS JOB IS A 14MM FLARE NUT CROW'S FOOT. I can't stress this enough. Without this tool, you're begging for a nightmare. If you don't know what this is, a regular crow's foot looks like the open-ended part of a wrench that mounts on the end of a ratchet extension. A flare-nut crow's foot is the same thing, only it looks like the closed end part of a wrench with a small portion cut out of it. The purpose of this is to have the tool fit around the metal line, but still wrap around five of the six corners of the flare nut. That way, you can put more muscle into breaking flare nuts loose without running as much risk of stripping your flare nut as you do with an open-ended wrench or crow's foot. If you strip it, you're screwed. And if you live anywhere where it snows, it's likely that corrosion has made your flare nut difficult to remove from your fuel filter. Trust me, borrow this tool, or drop the coin to buy one. It'll make your life so much easier.

You'll also need the following tools to finish the job: 3/8 drive ratchet; 1/4 drive ratchet; 10mm socket (3/8 drive); 10mm socket (1/4 drive); 10mm deep socket (1/4 drive); 17mm socket (3/8 drive); and at least 2 feet of 3/8 drive extension of various lengths. You also might want to gather a healthy selection of screw drivers and pliers, and also a hammer and a pry bar. These items aren't essential, but might come in handy.

It is recommended that the first thing you do is release the fuel pressure. Refer to a manual for this. Also, DO NOT take the two 10mm bolts out of the bracket yet. It's easier to bust the fuel lines loose if the filter is still mounted to the car.

The second step is to pop the flare nut fitting loose on the back of the fuel filter. Take your 14mm flare nut crow's foot and put it on about 2 feet of extension on the 3/8 ratchet. Get under the car and look for the back side of the fuel filter. Once you locate it, work your crow's foot up in there, over the fuel line, and onto the flare nut. Make sure that it's fully seated, and loosen it. It might take some muscle. If you've got the right tool, don't be afraid to lay into it. Once you get it to pop, make sure you slide your drain or drip pan under to catch the fuel that might be left over after releasing the fuel pressure. Once you've got the flare nut loosened and it will turn freely, you can move on to the banjo bolt. It's okay if the flare nut is still slightly in the fuel filter. You can either turn the fuel filter or reach behind and manually spin the flare nut fitting out from above. It's easier that way.

Go up to the topside, now. Get out all two feet of 3/8 extension that you have and put the 17mm socket onto the end of it. Attach your ratchet, and work the socket down to the banjo bolt. Once you're on it, put a little muscle into it and bust it loose. Remove the banjo bolt and put it where you can find it later. Pull the fuel line up and put it out of your way.

Now, that you've got both fuel lines off (or at least loose), you can remove the 10mm bolt that holds the fuel filter bracket to the car. I recommend leaving the bolt that holds the bracket onto the filter alone and removing the filter and bracket as one piece. Use your 3/8 ratchet with a 4" extension and a 10mm socket to remove this bolt. Once that bolt's out, reach behind and finish loosening the flare nut on the back side. If you can't turn it by hand, turn the filter until it pops loose. Now, manipulate the filter and bracket past the master cylinder to remove it from the car. Trust me, it can be done. Just might take a little finesse.

One more thing to note real quick: be extra careful not to bend the bracket when you're messing with it. It'll be a pain to put the filter back in if you bend the bracket. I had to remove mine a couple of times to straighten the bracket when putting it back together.

Now that you've got the filter and bracket out, remove the bracket from the old filter using your 1/4 drive and your 10mm deep socket. Put the bracket on the new filter, aligning the tab and the slot, and tighten it to the filter. Now, you're ready to put it back in. Finesse it back into place, but before starting the bolt that holds the bracket to the car, reach behind and start threading the flare nut into the back side of the filter. Tighten the flare nut AS FAR AS YOU CAN by hand. This will make the process with the crow's foot a little easier later on. Now, put the curved tab on the fuel filter bracket into the slot on the car and put the 10mm bolt in to hold the filter in place. Tighten everything down, and you're ready to tighten your fuel lines.

The rest of the way is a snap. Put your banjo bold through your fuel line, ensuring that you replace the copper crush washers on BOTH sides of the fuel line, and tighten it into place with your 17mm socket and your two feet of extensions. Once that's done, you're finished with the top side of the car. Go back around the bottom, put your crow's foot on your extensions, and tighten the flare nut into the backside of the filter. Don't be afraid to put a little muscle into tightening both sides of the line, but don't get ridiculous. You don't want to mess anything up. Once you're all tight, start the car and inspect for leaks.

There, you're done!! Aren't you glad you read my thread?! Sure, it was long, but I promise you, by taking 10 minutes to read this, you saved yourself an hour of work and a lot of stress from cursing the engineers at Honda Motor Corp. Now, go drive your Accord and enjoy the newfound fuel flow. Go crack open a beer once you get home. You've earned it!!

Thanks for reading, guys!!

Jon I too did this repair on my car yesterday, and had a different experience. I removed the banjo bolt and fuel line from the top of the filter first, before I did anything else. I disconnected two vacuum lines, and undid the mount on the wire harness that runs through this area next to the master cylinder, to make more room to see, and for my hands to work down in this area. The filter requires a 19mm wrench as a backup, to apply force to hold the filter in place as the 14mm being used to remove the fuel line from the bottom. For those who haven't tried this, this is definitely the 'hard' part of this, as stated above, most cars will have normal corrosion on the bottom, and getting a wrench on this lower fitting is hard to do in the first place, getting enough force on it to get it loose is much harder. Here's where my experience was different: I struggled with the 14mm wrench on it for a long time, and could not get it loose. I tried gloves, prying, hammering, swearing, nothing would get it loose. Finally I decided to unbolt the mount from the car, bend the fuel line and filter over sideways a little so I could reach a little better, and then I still couldn't put the 14mm on it in a way that would work. I ended up using a 9/16" fitting wrench, (probably like the crow's foot described above, not a regular open-ended wrench), and within a few minutes I got it loose this way. I removed the filter with the bracket still attached, installed the bracket on the new filter, installed the filter on the fuel line, tightened it as well as I could, THEN went to mount the bracket back in its proper location. As expected, since I bent the fuel line, the holes didn't line up. I held a larger wrench to the open end of the bracket, and carefully bent it back in to position. It took two or three tries. I put the tab back in the hole, then used a scratch awl in the regular bolt hole to bend that back to alignment. The bolt started easily. I then went back and double checked the tightness of the fuel line. The rest of the job was a snap, an easy re-assembly.

Drain radiator RE-fill slowly to prevent and "air lock" Run vehicle to normal operating temperature with heater on Check coolant level

On throttle body. It lets in extra air at idle when engine cold and throttle blade is closed.

first gear shift cylinoide, commonly go bad, or get clogged, there are 2 small cylinoide on the right hand side, on the area of the transmission facing the firewall, 1 cylinoide has a white connector, the other cylinoide has a brown connector, one screw holds it in place. all you have to do is remove the cylinoide, clean, and lubricate the o-rings, and re install. that should take care of your issue, unless your transmission clutch packs are worn out.

Im looking for the name of the hose that runs behind the motor? I have to replace it and I dont remember the name for it. Please help since i am a novice when it comes to cars