Try putting on the emergency brake & turning the wheels one way while turning the key. If that dont work try turning the wheels the other way..if your parked on a steep hill you might even have to put a brick in front of the tires and let it roll a bit to remove some pressure from the wheels............hope it works

Sometimes the plug gets stuck pretty hard in the radiator and removal will damage the radiator. Just pull the lower rad hose and you will do the same thing.

Even though the Plug has a rib/tab down the middle making you think it is threaded into the radiator...in reality it is just a molded plug with rubber o-rings that pushes straight in and pulls straight out. So to remove it (although it is probably better to just remove the hose) just grasp the rib and pull straight out while maybe twisting back and forth.

Almost every car and truck since 1980 has a belt routing guide on a sticker under the hood. This is most often placed on the radiator shroud or radiator mount but can be found other places like on the bottom side of the hood. If the sticker is gone then go to your local automotive parts dealer like NAPA and ask them to please look it up for you. A nice counter guy - or girl- would be happy to check their books for you and hand you a print out. Be sure to have the make, model and engine info with you. Mitch

• If you have air conditioning it's condensation from your AC spilling into your vehicle instead of outside on the ground. It's a clogged line to your air conditioner which has been clogged with debris, leaves and such. A little compressed air should do the trick.
• It might also be a coolant leak from your heater core. It will have a slimy, greasy feel if it's coolant. It will also have a sweet odor. Do not taste - its poisonous.
• Yes, the mysterious water swooshing noise in the dashboard when turning, and/or water leaking under the dash at the passenger side, as well as possibly the heater fan sounding like it's spitting water…there can be only one explanation and this is IT.
• First, let me assure you that all manner of answers from mechanics have been researched and considered, but so far no one has yet answered this satisfactorily in any forum I have come across. Usually it is something along the lines of "coolant leak", evaporator core issues, etc etc but these fellows are missing the vital point…it is WATER not some exotic liquid cocktail usually associated with serious and expensive vehicle problems.
• I own a 1996 Mercury Villager / Nissan Quest which developed this problem after a heavy rainfall. Coincidence? NO WAY!
• I had the proverbial water leak beneath the passenger side dash, as well as what sounded like a bathtub full of water behind my dash swooshing back and forth.
• So here's the deal. These vehicles, like many others have a reservoir above the firewall just beneath the plastic cover at the base of the windshield, which also houses the wiper motor, etc. typically the reservoir collects any water running from the windshield or rain in general. There are two drains one at the drivers side and one at the passenger side. These drains usually work great except when they become plugged with silt, debris from trees shedding leaves, insect matter etc. When this happens, the water simply collects and fills the reservoir with nowhere to go except into the fresh air intake for the cabin heating/cooling system located just above the passenger side glove compartment.
• The water then leaks into the venting ducts and onto the floor. It also stays in the reservoir and sloshes back and forth while driving.
• Any mechanic worth his salt should be able to figure this out and charge you ½ hr labor to remove the plastic shroud and unplug the drains. That's pretty much the extent of it. I did it myself and it took about 20 minutes.
• The wipers have to be removed. There is a release clip at the bottom of the wiper coupling where it meets the drive shaft. Pull it back and lift the wiper straight up and off the shaft. Remove the plastic pins ( they look like slotted screws) along the top of the shroud by turning them 90 degrees and pulling them straight out with some needle nose pliers. Open the hood and remove the rubber seal strip along the edge of the shroud. Find the little plastic holding pins and reach around to the bottom of each pin. You need to compress the little barbs on both sides of the pin to allow it to be pushed up through the hole. There are also 4 plastic push-lock pins holding the bottom edge of the shroud. You will have to pull up on the center (looks like a screw) of each pin and pull it almost all the way out. Then remove the whole pin assembly. A small sharp pair of end cutters works great. Now with a little bit of twisting and careful manipulation you should be able to pull the plastic piece up and out of the way. Start at the corners and pull the piece down and out from under the windshield trim. Then lift it up carefully and move it to rest on the windshield being careful not to disconnect any rubber hoses from the washer nozzles.
• The drains are located at the far edge of the trough in each corner. Use a straightened coat hanger or something similar to poke and clear the drain. Get your garden hose and with a good straight stream of water flush out each drain hole and make sure it is draining. Water will pour out of the rear of each wheel well just under the front of each door.
• Try using a spray of Lysol or other household disinfectant into the trough since it may have had stagnant water for some time. This will kill any bacteria that may have found it a haven for while and ensure that you will not be blowing it into the passenger compartment every time you turn on your blower.
• This happened to me, two huge puddles on my passenger side floor mat twice in one day. I looked up below the dash and found the hole it was dripping from. I found a nearby hose sticking out about two inches that wasn't connected to anything. Reconnected and problem solved. Just a disconnected hose.

The factory had 2 possible tire sizes:
215/75R15 and 225/75R15

The largest ive seen without any rubbing (also the size i run on mine) are 235/75R15s

USE CAUTION WHEN DEVIATING FROM MAN SUGGESTED TIRE SIZE! I was in the tire business for several years, we saw A LOT of Jeeps come in with the wrong size tires on, and several of them had problems with the transfer case. It seemed that the Grand Cherokee was more prone to those issues, but several standard Cherokee's had the same problems.

If the pioneer is like my 1988 Jeep Cherokee limited, the fuse box is hidden from view above the break pedal and to the left. You have to open the driver's door and kneel on the pavement to see it.

It is usually located in the headlight switch. It is a automatic reset circuit breaker. When a short occurs it rapidly blinks the headlight circuit on and off so the headlights are not completely lost to allow you to pull off the road safely at night.

The antenna mast screws into the antenna mount on the fender. Unscrew the old one and crew in the new one. If you need to replace the entire antenna mount, you will need a new antenna mount assembly with antenna cable.

They came with a 2.5-liter 4-cylinder or a 4.0-liter 6-cylinder. Open the hood and either look for those liter sizes stamped on the engine, or look for a sticker on the inside of the hood or above the grille that states the size.

could be the crank shaft positioning sensor 80 bucks

its located on the upper part of the bell of the transmission, drivers side, two screws. been there, done that, good luck, not easy to get to.

The transmission shifts through gears as your engine rpm increases and your transfer case engages and disengages your jeep in and out of 4 wheel drive. Your transfer case also has gears for 4x4 high or low.

I had this happen to me and it was the resister connectors , could be the resistor itself, 92 had it mounted on left front fender near top, it gets weather in on it and the wires corrode in their covers.

Make sure the front seat is not reclined. If it is, the rear seatback may not fold down all the way.

To lower the rear seatback, follow these steps:

Disconnect the rear center lap-shoulder belt latch, if equipped, by using a pointed object to press the release button.

Pull forward on the seatback tab located on the outboard side of the rear seat cushion to fold the seatback down. This gives direct access to the trunk.

Caution: If the seatback is not locked, it could move forward in a sudden stop or crash. That could cause injury to the person sitting there. Always press rearward on the seatback to be sure it is locked.

Caution: A safety belt that is improperly routed, not properly attached, or twisted will not provide the protection needed in a crash. The person wearing the belt could be seriously injured. After raising the rear seatback, always check to be sure that the safety belts are properly routed and attached, and are not twisted.

I am having the problem many others have had when starting their jeep gc. I turn the key to start and hear one click then it turns off. Many people have said to find the yellow solenoid wire connecting to the starter and then to clean/wiggle it and that should solve the problem.

If everything goes dead after that first click, double check, clean and tighten both ends of both battery cables.

Most vehicles will require that you lift the engine to remove/replace the oil pan. You can usually get enough distance if you just disconnect the motor mounts and lift the engine 6 or 8 inches. You probably won't need to disconnect the transmission, electrical or any of the hoses if you do it that way. Otherwise you'll need to completely remove the engine and that is a bit of trouble.
Not sure about all years, but I have a '97 that I am, in fact, currently working on. You have to drop the exhaust (4 bolts holding a Y-shaped pipe to the manifold). The front two bolts are difficult, but you can get a wrench on them. The back two, however, I have yet to get a wrench on them. Sizes are weird, too. For instance, the front seems to be 23/32 and the rear a 19/32. But I'm not sure -- I'm going to a tool shop now and taking some bolts with me to see if I can match it up. I can tell you the rear bolts will have to be removed with a wobble socket, because there's no way to put a socket straight on them, and there's such limited movement around the nuts that I doubt Hercules could losen them because it would have to be done with the wrist alone. When you get the oil pan off, I do know the gasket must be siliconed in at four locations. Anyway, I would suggest purchasing a good manual on your year of Taurus. And if you decide to do it, be ready to mutter obscenities and get very grimey.

On my 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo it is on the front right of the engine. There should be a picture of an oil can on the cap with the words fill oil here or something along that line on it.

it depens on if the previous owner took care of it.the 1996 Cherokee saved the Chrysler corp in 1996.it was the most popularof its time .I had one they are very tough and almost unstoppable.I took mine in the woods 3 times a week and beat it alot no problems.

On my 1989 Jeep Cherokee, the EXTERNAL fuel filter is located underneath the vehicle's driver's side going into (or out of?) the fuel tank near the wheel well...it looks round & fat with fuel lines running out of both ends and is secured with a bracket or clamp. It is accessible , but in an awkward position to remove unless you jack up the vehicle a bit to allow some "elbow room". It looks like you will need at least a screwdriver, and maybe a small wrench and plier to rermove retaining clips around the fuel line hose on one end; not sure what connects the other metal line; you will have to look closer with better light! The internal fuel filter or "screen" is located INSIDE the fuel tank and requires lowering of the fuel tank to get to If anyone knows where the fuel pump RELAY switch is located, pls let me know ASAP, I have a "mobile mechanic" coming over Sat or Sunday to replace the fuel pump itself, and am hoping it may not be necessary if my relay alone is bad! Howard L , Houston Reply to:infospec@worldnet.att.net

Pass side rear of the engine--if you look at the oil filter--the starter is about 8-10 inches behind it. Its just about the size of a coke can, can't miss it if your'e looking under the passenger seat.

Your Jeep probably has the 242 select trac transfer case. If it's a full time 4x4, it will have a 249.

take the cap off and check this look under the cap and see if the rubber seal is broken or it looks worn but if in doubt replace it a mechanic has tool for connecting to radiator to check cap pressure. but if you think radiator cap is the problem, just buy a new one they cost under 10 bucks. if that is the problem, it is sure cheaper than going to a mechanic

why would my 2003 jeep larado be overheating if it has antifreeze and the water pump is working?

try this.. If you have the inline-six like my '03, try replacing the thermostat - located in front of the motor, center, top. Casing should be aluminum and possibly have some corrosion. Note the hose coming to it from TOP of the radiator and a sensor attached to it. Part costs from $8 to $16 and should take about 30 mins. to replace.

The radiator fan control relay on the 1999 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo is located BEHIND the passenger side front head lamp housing through a cut out square hole. You gain access to the fan motor relay by initially following the instructions for changing a head lamp bulb in the owners manual. Once you detach the head lamp housing from vehicle frame, look through the square hole in the frame. The OEM relay has a square sky blue labling. It's recommended that you apply electrical grease to surface in order to help prevent corrosion, moisture, and enhance conductivity when replacing.

where is the emission control system in my 1999 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo?