Jeep Cherokee

A 1992 Jeep is obd 1, not 2. The connector is under the hood, near the battery.

What Fuse that controls what? Way too little info provided. First i would check the wire from trans to make sure that it is not arcing out it may have rubbed on something other than that check the eaths. Check the reverse switch, and any wires leading to and from the transmission that look as if they're possibly carrying voltage. wiring harness behind the valve cover on a 4.0 is a very common problem area for shorts. i am a master chrysler, jeep... tech. i would bet real cash the problem is there. look at the drivers side at the firewall. good luck! I AGREE: check the engine compartment wiring harness- it may be chaffing on the end of the fuel rail near the firewall. reinsulate the damaged wire and zip tie the harness to the one above it.

Diagnostic Readout Box. It is Chrysler'r scan tool.

No. The 2007 and up Wrangler is a different lug pattern.

Check the fuel injectors with a ohm meter to see if they all are firing correctly. Also, check the spark plug, wires, and distrubuter and rotor. If all of these are ok check the 02 sensor.

If you are referring to the 4.0 liter in-line 6 and if it is anything like the 94 Cherokee I just changed a belt on, you proceed like this: 1) loosen 13mm pivot bolt on top of the front of power steering pump bracket (don't remove!) 2) loosen 13mm upper rear bolt on back of power steering pump rear bracket 3) loosen 13 mm lower rear bolt on back of power steering pump rear bracket. (this one is VERY hard to see and is buried under a wiring harness loom that runs right behind power steering pump) Once all of these are loosened a few turns, look down under right (drivers) side of pump and find the belt tensioner adjustment bolt (also13mm). Using a short socket with a 3" extension just fit on mine. Turn in or out to loosen or tighten serpentine belt.

For JGC 2000 4.7L or 4.0L engines do:

From: http://www.wjjeeps.com/serpentine.htm (Hats off to their incredible work!)

Note in step #2 that different tool needed for 4.0 and 4.7 engines. The Jeep GC 4.7L=15mm socket wrench while the Jeep 4.0L=15mm hex wrench.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.

2. Using a 15mm socket wrench (hex wrench for 4.0), rotate belt tensioner clockwise until it contacts its stop. Remove belt, then slowly rotate the tensioner into the freearm stop position.

3. Install new belt. Route the belt around all pulleys except the idler pulley. Rotate the tensioner arm clockwise until it contacts its stop position. Route the belt around the idler and slowly let the tensioner rotate into the belt. Make sure the belt is seated onto all pulleys. Inspect the entire belt path to make sure it is seated correctly on the pulleys.

4. With the drive belt installed, inspect the belt wear indicator (see diagram below):

On 4.7L engines, the tensioner is equipped with an indexing tang on back of tensioner and an indexing stop on tensioner housing. If a new belt is being installed, tang must be within approximately 24 mm (.94 inches) of indexing stop. Belt is considered new if it has been used 15 minutes or less.

On 4.0L Engines, the indicator mark must be between the minimum and maximum marks. The tensioner arm has three marks. Upon installation of a new belt, the double line marks close to each other should be very close to the mark on the base. The belt should be replaced if the single line mark lines up with the mark on the base.

Personal note: Get ready for some real work! This was very labor intensive but doable none the less. My experience was on my JGC-2000 w/ 4.0L. Get a hex socket extension for your ratchet. I was unable to get the radiator hood off(Couldn't get into passenger side lower bolt - Can't get ratchet in enough to fasten onto bolt. Sucks!!!) which didn't give me enough clearance to get a T-Handle hex key wrench. .

Benny V.

It is on the starter.

Ithe AW4 trans uses Dextron III

On the pump, in the tank.

You buy a service,repair manual or you take it to a shop

It is found deep in the bulkhead wedged between the dashboard and the gullet. Jeep will charge over 60 hours labour just to remove the dash so some people will resort to jacking up the front of the car and cutting it out through the bulkhead. There are some non franchised specalists offering to do the job for less but your still looking at over $3000. Its not suprising some people are going for the more destructive option!

All information is based of a 2000-01 XJ and the related manuals.

Everything listed is a circuit that is either "attached" to the fuse or directly impacted by it.

Power distribution center (under the hood)

Looking at the PDC from the front of the vehicle, the bottom right mini fuse is #16,

the one above it is #17, the top one in the column is #18.

Fuse #19 is to the left (of #16)

Fuse #16 underhood lamp, transmission control module, radio & interior lights

Fuse #17 O2 downstream relay

fuse #18 coil rail & injectors

Fuse #19 headlamp switch & data connector

Fuse #20 combination flasher

Fuse #22 fuel pump relay

Fuse #23 brakelamp switch

Fuse #25 fog lamp relay

Fuse #26 power amplifier

Now to the junction/fuse block (inside the passenger area kick panel)

Fuse #1 is the large 25A on the top of the left column

Fuse #15 is the large 25A on the top of the right column

Fuse #1 power outlet

Fuse #2 cigar lighter

Fuse #3 left headlamp

Fuse #4 left headlamp

Fuse #5 right headlamp

Fuse #6 Dash lights (switches, controls, gauge cluster)

Fuse #7 license light & the left side turn, parking, marker and tail lamp

Fuse #8 Spare

Fuse #9 compass, sentry key, headlamp delay module, instrument cluster

Fuse #10 transmission range sensor, duty cycle evap/purge solenoid, radiator fan relay, a/c clutch relay, o2 sensor up/downstream relays, back up lamp switch

Fuse #11 transmission control module, powertrain control module, automatic shutdown relay, fuel pump relay

Fuse #12 instrument cluster, combination flasher

Fuse #13 Spare

Fuse #14 power mirrors, rear defogger & switch

Fuse #15 passenger power lock/window switch

Fuse #16 cargo lamp/switch, courtesy lamps, radio, instrument cluster, under hood lamp, transmission control module

Fuse #17 radio

Fuse #18 power mirror switch, driver power window/lock switch, heated seats

Fuse #19 starter motor relay

Fuse #20 trailer tow harness & trailer turn relays

Fuse #21 horn(s)

Fuse #22 rear wiper switch & motor

Fuse #23 right side marker, turn, parking and tail lights

Fuse #24 Spare

Fuse #25 shift lock solenoid, a/c heater control, abs controller, abs controller relay, blower motor relay, blend door actuator

Fuse #26 airbag control module

Fuse #27 airbag control module

ignition switch happened on my 94 also that fixed the problem but you have to drop the steering wheel

Yes it will, I have placed in a 2001 4.0 into my 1988 Cherokee. My only difference was no place for the knock sensor "No big deal" and changing the temp sensor into a different water neck housing instead of the engine block. You will have no trouble switching the engine, just use all the outer parts from the 1988. Hope this helps. P.S. 4.0L I6 "Power Tech" - 177 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 ft lb @ 4000 rpm - used 87-90 4.0L I6 MPI "Power Tech HO" (High Output) - 190 hp @ 4750 rpm, 220 ft lb @ 4,000 rpm - used in 91-95. So you will also be getting some better HP. :)

Gotta see the Dealer for that, dude. It requires a special tool. When the light came on on my 1992 Cherokee, I tried everything & everyone. I ended up at the Dealer. Sorry! For the answer to this and hundreds of other Jeep related questions, you might want to join an online Forum like JeepsUnlimited Forums or JeepForum (Google it!). They have huge data bases and hundreds of people there who drive the same vehicle, encountered the same issues and are qualified to help. Also, you don't need to join, you can use their search feature for the answers to many questions; but in order to ask a question you must be a member (join for Free!). Good Luck.

I don't know for sure if this will help , but, I own a 1991 Cherokee 4.0 and the alarm went off any time it wanted to . I researched this problem and found the alarm system is tied into several other systems . I shut mine up by pulling fuse number one in the main fuse box under the dash . Ofcoarse I lost high beam headlights also but haven't had to fight the darn alarm going off all the time . Another way I hear is to remove the right front door pannel and cut a purple wire of some sort . Don't know if that works .

Just did this 10 minutes ago fyi :) .................... All of the answers above are Correct for 94-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Some have the bezel, others do not. Honestly you do not have to unscrew those shafts, it is a snap-on ball on the end of the screw adjustment shaft that connects to the plastic retainer on the Light Housing, 2 or 3 connectors depending on the model. Try not to break the housing, but it will come off with a strong tug or pry with a bar, first one side then the other. If you are just chamging the bulb then the above is also correct about untwisting the ring collar and removing the bulb, from the rear, (inside the engine compartment); remember to reinstall the ring onto the bulb and to not touch the glass bulb.

I own a 2005 jeep Cherokee my headlights on the passenger side is not working changed the bulbs & they are still not working.

It could be inumerous things, first thing I would check is if there is fuel in the tank, as stupid as it sounds, its possible, if there is you can have someone turn the key to on and see if you can hear the fuel pump kicking inside the gas tank, if you can, then you want to check for spark.

5000 lbs.

1-5-3-6-2-4

no it would not

15x7, bolt pattern 5 on 4.5. Take my advice & join one of the Forums I mention below. You'd be surprised how many times this question has been asked. For the answer to this and hundreds of other Jeep related questions, you might want to join an online Forum like JeepsUnlimited Forums or JeepForum (Google it!). They have huge data bases and hundreds of people there who drive the same vehicle, encountered the same issues and are qualified to help. Also, you can use their search feature for the answers to many questions without joining, but in order to ask a question you must be a member (join for Free!). Good Luck.

I would look for a Vacuum leak possibly under hood. Does your Cruise control work?

firmly grab edge console under cigarette lighter and pull. It comes off very easy. Then you will see the bolts to take out the radio....very simple