Lincoln Mark VII

1985-1992 are located in the trunk on drivers side behind the spare tire 1985 - 1992 air suspension computer 6'' x 4'' and is located in the trunk on the drivers side behind the spare tire

The firing order on a 5.0 Lincoln engine is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 . The number one cylinder is on the drivers side, closest to the front.

not trying to sound scarcastic, but the air bag wasnt invented till 1992. get your dates together and please try again. thanks Just to sound sarcastic I own Two of these cars and the airbag was invented long before 1992 and was a stock part of the Mark VII from 1984 through 1992 which was the last yr of the Mark VII

You have to replace with springs and shocks

passenger side kick panel by the floor bord if you need directions to the kick panel

Lincoln Mark VII Safety Air Bags need to be serviced by a professional. Do NOT take chances with this.

if it does not release automatically when put in gear the is a manual release lever built on the side of the e brake pedal. get under steering wheel look for small black lever and make sure your fingers are out of the way of the pedal when you tug on the manual release lever. normally a vacuum servo works the release but sometimes servo or vacuum problems fail to operate it

forgive my ignorance, but what is teves brake system.

I am not saying that this is your problem but i inherited my fathers 1990 LSC in 2005.He bought it brand new and died in 1993. The car had 25,000 miles when I got it. It now has 75,000. I had the same problem and replaced the amplifier. It is located in trunk mounted in between the two back speakers. I have a air ride suspension problem and just bought new compressor and did not fix it. all air springs are fairly new.today I am replacing the front two solenoid air springs. The car will not lift up. The air bag light flashes off and on plus suspension light comes on .anyone have that problem ?

It is probably the amp in the trunk causing the noise.

Now as far as the air ride problem it could be the air ride computer, which is located in the trunk next to the switch for the air ride? I had this problem last yr and it took me 3 months to figure it out...

The best way to fix this is to diagnose the system and replace the bad parts or you can put the aftermarket spring kit on the car... The spring kit's about $500 and new airbags can be had from ebay for about $80 a bag, or you can get everything to fix the air ride system (4 air bags with the valves, air compressor with a new dryer) for $500... I would fix the air ride if I was you because of the comfortable ride, beats the springs any day!

Probably the alternater

hazard flasher relay location on a 1983 lincoln mark 6

Hey

It depends on what type of short . Is it a short to ground . Or is It a short ro positive

Or is it just an open wire .

1 If its a short to ground and is blowing the fuse you need to know how many amps

the short is drawling on the system first. so you do not damage the system.

If you have a short detectror that runs over the wireing it is a easy job as long as

you can fallow the wires. you need to feed a small amont of current threw the system

and trace the wires with a short detector. with out a short detector you must use a

multimeter . select ohms scale . maesure resistance of the circuit in question . then

shorten your distence from on end of circuit to the other to you narrow down the spot

of the short.

2 Its pretty much the same thery ecept it will not draw any current as positive only atracts to negative & vicversa.

3 an open is easy to find with a test light or multimeter. Just start tracing the circiut

by probing if theres a current the light will light up or the meter will read voltrage or amps depending on what scale the meters set on. as sooon as you looseyour current that's were the wire is open . use your multimeter on the ohms scale to check

the circuit fisrt to see if it has an open or not.

I'm not quite sure what you mean here? But in the trunk where the spare tire is towards the front of the car above the spare tire is the on and off switch located in this access hole and also if you remove the spare tire cover (and you might have to remove the spare from the car) is this white pigtail wire coming from the switch and the computer wire harness, you take this white wire and ground it, then open and close your drivers door a couple of times with the key on and the car running. You should hear the compressor cycle and the airbag solenoids clicking too. I remember one time I had to do this when I unhooked my camper from my car and the back end of the car went up too high and over road the height sensors, now when I do this I leave the car running and raise the camper off the hitch slowly to give the air ride time to adjust.

You must be talking about the fuel pressor regulator valve? It is located towards the rear of the intake manifold on the fuel rail that is attached to all the fuel injectors. It is a round thing with a vacuum hose attached to the top and is bolted on with 3 small bolts through a flange on the bottom of it...

Start by getting the car up off the ground. WAY up. Get the rear tires on top of some ramps, and the front needs to be a minimum of 24" from ground to bottom of the frame. The trans is @18" and you will need the additional space for the trans jack and just room in general. Remove the starter, torque converter inspection plate, 4 torque converter nuts, left side trans support, shift linkage, TV cable, speedometer connection, driveshaft, and loosen the trans support. The trans itself is connected to the engine block by 6 bolts, it takes multiple extensions and a good wobble (I taped mine), along with gobs of patience. Remove the lower4 bolts first, then place the trans jack under the pan. Jack until the tension is off the trans support. Remove support. Lower jack. The engine and trans will tilt slightly allowing somewhat easier access to the 2 remaining bolts. Here's where patience and about 3ft of extensions come in. Remove the bolts, jack the trans up slightly, slide trans toward the rear, the torque converter should come along for the ride. BTW, disconnect battery and drain trans fluid first. Plan on a long weekend.

If you are referring to the ABS system and changing it back to a regular brake system? Then the answer would be yes. But this is not going to be an easy or cheap task... I don't think you can adapt a vacuum power brake booster on this car because of clearance problems? If you can find an old 84 or 85 Mark VII, some of them came with the old Lincoln style "Hydro Boost System" that works off the power steering system you can grab everything you need from this car and retro fit it to yours, but you will have to get everything: hoses, hydro boost (this is the part that bolts to the firewall) master cylinder and all the brake lines to it... To buy everything new without the cores of the hydro boost and master cylinder would be very expensive. These cars also (I think???) came with drum brakes on the rear, if so that master cylinder would not work. So you would have to get one for 4 wheel disc brakes. Also the old Lincoln Versales had 4 wheel disc but I'm not sure if it had the Hydro Boost System? If this car does have the Hydro Boost you might be able to use everything off that car too... If you know a good Ford Lincoln or Mercury parts guy he can research this for you by the part #'s what cars to look for in the auto salvage yards!!!

If you are talking about the computer? It's located down under the dash on passenger side (right side just ahead of the door panel) called the kick panel. There is also one for the ABS system (behind the back seat in the trunk and the air ride system (located just ahead of the switch for it in the trunk) too. If you are talking about something with the ignition that one is on the distributor called TFI module.

yes, you can replace with a sway bar from 84-92 mkvii, however if you want a more firmer ride, rplace it with a sway bar from an 88 tbird turbo coupe or a sway bar from an 84-88 tbird or cougar with a factory v8. thoes bars are thicker and give a better handling response.

They sell a bypass harness for it. You have to use this or must install a rectifier in between all the speaker wires and adjust all the channels of the speakers (front L&R rear L&R) if you use an aftermarket radio or else the speakers will be distorted... The bypass harness is the best way to go and that gets installed under the rear package tray in the trunk where the amp is located. I got mine for free from Crutchfield when I ordered the whole stereo package also got the install kit with the plug adapters too for free. Any stereo store could get you this.

There is an override code provided to the original owner, which may be available through a dealer. This allows personalization of the code using a keycode sequence, or resetting to the unerasable factory/dealer code.
It is possible, though unlikely, that the decal with this information is still attached to one of the trunk hinges, where it is placed in the factory.

from the factory, r-12 retrofitted to r134a if you have ever had a recent refrigerant charge. r-12 was found to be enviornmentaly hazardous.