Lincoln Mark VIII

You really need the vacuum machine that is used to suck out all the old stuff and moisture etc. to do it right.

Reclaim refrigerant. Be sure system is empty. Unhook refrigerant lines from condensor, and evap core. Best to use a "flush gun" and compressed air. Brake clean is a good solvent to use, as it evaporates quickly, and leaves no residue. Flush, and back flush. Use a clean container to capture the solvent as it comes out. Inspect to see if metal flakes are present. Usually one or two flushes in each direction will get all of the grayish, metal flakes out. Usually their is very little, if any in the evap core. On some Fords where compressor failure is catastrohic, and large amounts of metal are deposited in condensor--then maybe necessary to replace condensor. Especially on Rangers, and Explorers.

After flush complete. Then be sure and blow compressed air through the evap, and condensor core to remove residual solvent. Be sure and install the correct type, and amount of refrigerent oil in compressor and accumulator. Some techs will put a little oil in the evap & condensor too. My experience has shown that is not necessary. After system is evacutated and charged, check hi-side pressure with manifold gauge assbly to make sure their are no "pressure spikes", this could indicated a faulty condensor core.

Actually i converted mine over to coils and i got instructions with mine on the passenger side you have to pull the carpet back under the dash by the door. and their is a computer board there and there are two white plugs the one you have to unplug is kind of hard to get to

max and mollie

This maybe the problem. If you used an oil impregnaged air filter you may have oil on the mass air flow sensor thin filiment wire. This will cause the engine to idle badly. Remove the mass air flow sensor and you will see 2 really thin wires. Now you can go to the store and some auto parts places sell spray to clean the wires. I would use brake clean non clorinated!!!! do not spray full force but just a little and let dry completely. This is very common with oil impregnated filters. Ford does recommend that you do not use such air filters on mass air flow vehicles.

First I removed the oil filter and drained the radiator fluid. Unplugged the oil sending unit. Removed the radiator reservoir and moved the power distribution box to gain easier access to the 3 upper bolts. Removed the radiator hose from the assembly.

Slid assembly out and scraped off remaining gasket and installed in reverse order. Its not the easiest thing in the world to change. Good Luck

A lot of times the lens goes inward and stops the needle from moving, check that first.

no

0.54 and remember to use anti seize grease

Sounds like rear stabilizer bar may have a crack in it, on the Marks they are hollow, and check the suspension in the rear, maybe bushings are pretty much shot.

It is when you do not want your guest to have access to the internet.

There is a tensioner that is easily moved with a 1/2" socket or breaker bar. Release the tension, and the belt will come right off. Route the new belt around the pulleys, push down on the tensioner again, and route the belt around the tensioner pulley. A very simple job that should take no more than 5 minutes to do.

You can find more Mark VIII repairs at www.markviii.org.

Squirt some WD-40 on the trunk mechanizm and that should do the trick, or maybe a loose wire.

Yes

I like the air suspension myself but you can change the fronts and rears with springs and struts for around $400.00. There are a couple of people selling the replacements on E-Bay. They are fairly easy to change, can easily be done in an afternoon.

I have a 1996 Lincoln that presented a "Check Ride Control" warning one morning. After driving it for about 10 minutes I could tell it was handling differently. By the time I got to work (50 miles) the front of the car had sunk such that the tires would scrape the inside of the fender when I made a turn. When I left work 10 hours later, the drive home was scary - I probably should have had it towed. The car over-reacted to every bump and each flaw in the road felt like a canyon. After reviewing it for an hour or so, my mechanic said that the air system itself was mechanically ok but the computer was telling it the ride control to empty the cyclinders. He talked to a local dealer and they said they wanted no part of it and that if they were to address the problem I could expect at least $1200 in charges. Thankfully my mechanic isloated a flawed sensor - it cost me $168 for the part and $230 for labor. I was happy to get away with the $398. My understanding is that these systems are really problematic and owners with the time and inclination often replace the air system with a spring suspension system.

This happens sometimes. Try pressing the chrom button to release windshield washer fluid. The wipers will wipe the windshield 4-5 times and should recede to their correct resting position on their own.

in mark 8's they use a controler to make flashers flash. this module has gone bad

Either take it to a Auto Zone, Advantage Auto, etc. and they will check it out for you free or swap it with the other side and if it changes how it runs then that is the one that is bad unless it's dead all together.

located in the gas tank

Bad wire, crack in the power pack by number 1 cylinder, bad sparkplug, oil down in the spark plug tube

No

Passenger side towards the back of the engine.

What is the question?

Go to this link: http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00148.html