Mercury Sable

Ahhh... This on troubled me for quite some time. As with all of our lovely American cars, they love to make ***special*** tools to remove what should be an easy part to remove. Instead of just attaching the module with simple Phillips screws, the engineers at ford decided to affix it with a 5.5mm bolt. ***however*** since the bolt is recessed about 1/2 inch, there are **no** deep well sockets that will reach it. So... You have to buy a ford "ignition module" tool to access those pesky bolts. I found one online for about 10 bucks. Also, don't buy the module from ford! They want over $215 dollars for it. I got one at checker for about $105.00.

hope this helps

Steve phx AZ

***edit to the clueless wonder aboves answer*** well since you seem to be a clueless American car basher, instead of spendin that 105.00 for the special tool, all you would have needed was a 1/4" drive 7/32" thin wall socket or just ground the outside of the socket until it fit. They use a socket head because they knew a steel bolt in an aluminum distributor housin would corrode and a phillips screw head would strip obviously, no rocket science involved there. The jap cars do the same if not worse. so for $5 max cost, you could have gotten the right socket for the job or modified one easily.

BY TechToolTime:

This is correct ,a thin wall ( expensive tool truck like MATGO, SnackOn or the likes), deep or mid-depth socket of 5.5 mm or 7/32" will fit or grind down a cheapie. And remember , you were once clueless as well.

*#*#*# Another Edit:

My 94 Taurus parts car (body rotted away at 330K) used a 6 mm head size bolt and the 95 Sable (150K daily driver used a 7/32" (aka 5.5mm) while the threads are identical. A small bench grinder plus a hand file with some cutting oil made fast work of a couple of ratty looking import sockets in the "dupes" box.

I also have a 92 Taurus (180K) as a backup and have found many "Fordsies" between the 3 models that make maintaining these gems difficult or at least aggravating at times.

Geoff in NH

Its underneath on the passenger side , first you will need to take of that plastic shield under the front bumper by loosing a dozen of 5 mm screws and one 10 or 12 mm screw , as soon as you take that shield off , you will see a the metal room connected to a rubber join coming from the radiator , this metal room has 2 8mm screws you will need a universal joint to loose the back screw , after you take out this part which will still attached to the rubber joint you will see the thermostat take the rubber casket and then just pull the thermostat out

there are two 02 sensor one is call upstream .. that's is on the exhaust manifold front engine ... and the other is downstream next to the back of the engine on the exhaust y pipe

It is probably out of Freon or R-22. Most automotive stores can check it for you. There are gauges you can buy also to check it yourself. If that is not it, there is a switch that can also go out. It is an very cheap fix if you do it yourself.

Another cause might be the temperature blend door being stuck in the hot air position.

See "Related Questions" below for more

I'm trying to remember, I used to have one. Most engine computers (including the Sable's) are on the passenger's side under the glove box and to the right, under the "kick panel." (If you sit in the car and stretch your legs out, the computer will be under the plastic trim directly to the right of your right foot.)

Start with removing the door panel.

The speaker mounting screws are likely to be something unusual - like maybe 5.5 mm(?)

Here's a tip from my mistakes: do NOT cut the factory wiring!

Try and ensure you end up with a converter wire harness that will plug straight into the factory plug and allow you to adapt to the new speaker.

Places like Crutchfield.com carry them.

See "Related Questions" below for more about door panels and Taurus - Sable radio/speaker wiring.

According to the 1997 Mercury Sable Owner Guide ( 5W-30 )

With engine oil filter change

For the 3.0 litre " Vulcan " V6 engine ( 4.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 engine oil )

For the 3.0 litre " Duratec " V6 engine ( 5.5 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 engine oil )

Since these are considered to be a single assembly, the starter is going to have to some out for bench testing.

This is where the small local auto parts store has an advantage over the national parts store chain - the local "guy" likely knows a starter motor specialist / shop that might be able to do a repair instead of having to purchase a whole new starter.

Check around.

By the way, getting at a Taurus/Sable starter and pulling it isn't too bad of a job - see "Related Questions" below

Cylinder specific misfires are usually caused from one (or more) of four things. The spark plug itself in that specific cylinder may be fouled out (have oil on or blackened tip). Incorrect gap (distance from end of plug to metal "L" shaped piece) or just faulty or worn out. Also the spark plug wire / cable running to that specific cylinder may be broken, burnt, cracked or just worn out. The distributor / rotor cap may have a bad node on it that the specific plug feeds from or may be bad all together. some cars have coil packs that go bad and can cause misfire.

Also if the check engine light is on you should have the code scanned / read and follow the diagnostic process for eliminating the skipping.

Start with removing the actuator motor. (See "Related Questions" below)

With the actuator out, operate the temperature adjusting control and watch the motor to see if it is moving.

NOTE: Movement alone does not guarantee that the gear teeth inside are not broken.

Next, using a small screw-driver, or similar, try and operate the blend door itself. It should move freely and easily. Any binding is a bad bad problem.

Hopefully your problem will be the actuator and not the door!

See "Related Questions" below for more

Although the instructions said to disconnect the emergency brake cable, after messing with it for 30 minutes or so, I said to "heck" with the instructions and worked around it.

I don't recall any specific problem with leaving the cable connected, so it must have been a whole lot easier.

See "Related Questions" below for more details - I contributed to the answer, so maybe I specifically mentioned the cable there too.

Without knowing the model year or the type of engine :

No

The 3.0 liter " Vulcan " V6 engine and the 3.8 liter V6 engine

use ( 1 timing CHAIN )

The 3.0 liter " Duratec " Dual Over Head Cam V6 engine has

( 1 timing CHAIN to each cylinder head , so there are 2

timing CHAINS )

( even the 2.5 liter four cylinder engine available in the

1986 or so ,Mercury Sable has a timing CHAIN )

Other than at the back of the car... (?)

If the question is about how to change brake light bulbs, See "Related Questions" below

If the question is about the brake light switch, that's on the brake pedal - just a couple of wires going to it and rather easily replaced.

There are total of 12 screws that need to be taken out. First the knee panel (2 screws), located beneath the steering wheel needs to come off to grant access to other screws. Then the knob plate for the headlights and dimmer needs to come off, and there is one screw located behind that. The radio has to come out as well, need to use DIN wrenches to take off the radio, this is done by putting the wrenches into the two holes on either side of the radio. There are 3 or 4 more screws holding the radio panel in place. Then pull the radio panel off, but be gentle b/c you could break the so called "butterfly" rivets. There are two more screws located in the top part of the dashboard holding the vents and display window in place. Once those screws are out then you may need to lower the steering column and put the transmission into "D". However, you just need to put the ignition into the run position. Pull the top panel off and then there will be 4 torx screws holding the speedo head unit in place. Remove those 4 screws and unplug both plugs from the back of the unit. There is also a cable for the shifter display that will need to be removed, there is a tiny bolt holding that in place. The install of the new or re-used unit is in the opposite order. Have fun and hope that everything works out for the best.

On a 2002 Mercury Sable :

Open the drivers door and on the latch pillar you will see an information

sticker . One of the things it will show is the original size of tires on the

vehicle from the factory

== ==

Very easy. All you need is a #4 or #3 Phillips screw driver. Lift the hatch and observe where the tail light assembly aligns to the inside of the car. You will see 2 black Phillips screws that fasten the assembly to the body. Remove the screws and gently pull the assembly out. Start from the end of the tail light assembly where you removed the screws. After the assembly has been pried free you can remove the lamps. All you need to do is give the socket a quarter turn by hand counter clock wise. The bulbs (lamps) pull out and push in

i have a 1994 pnotiac sunbird that the handle broke off on the cable under the dash to open the hood. you can open the hood with a little patience and a fairly long screwdriver by releasing the latch under the hood. after this, on my sunbird, i just pulled the cable all the way out under the hood, tied it under the front of the car, and just pull it to release the switch. (thats only because i am too cheap and lazy to spend the money and time on a cable and install it.)

I know one of them is under the front of the car right in the center. Just go over to the front your car get on the ground and look up it is right there. I here there is another one hidden in back, but I haven't seen it yet. Hope I could help alittle.

According to 2 online sources,both front and rear speakers are 6 x 8

See "Related Questions" below for more

I have read via Google that they do, however I can personally attest that mine does not.

For 1995 and newer vehicles, it would be so much easier to have someone read the codes with a ODB scanner/reader.

Many auto parts stores will retrieve the codes for free - can't beat the price.

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Generally speaking, yes you will probably have to remove the interior panel on the door. Most door panels are held on by screws and by plastic tee's that will pop off with a little pressure. Most of those plastic tee's will break off if you've got an older car, because they get brittle. You can get new ones at any auto parts store. I'd seriously recommend grabbing a 20 buck repair manual, because you could easily miss a screw that's buried under something, (like the armrest) and break it by accident. But if you have a diagram or picture of where the screws and such are, it's not that hard of a job. Best of luck.