Mercury Villager

There is one timing belt and three accessory belts.

If you mean the oil pressure sender it's right next to the oil filter.

The rear seat is not designed to be removed. You can remove the center seat and slide the rear seat forward.

This indicates severe wear and impending failure, it will probably need to be rebuilt or replaced.

The "flex plate" will interchange as long as the donor vehicle is the same year and has the same size engine. Both vehicles use Nissan powertrain.

donde esta colocado el knock sensor en una Chevy silverado 2000

Top of the throttle body.

The horn relay and the cruise control steering wheel switch are powered from the same fuse. Check fuse #44 at the inside fuse panel under the dash.

By the fusebox under the dash.

Balances braking force between front and rear wheels.

You would need to be more specific with your question. You are not providing enough information to supply a meaningful answer.

If you're talking about the headlight, the "lens cover" is not a separate part, you need to replace the whole headlight assembly.

Distance: 848.01 miles1364.75 kilometers - Time: 13:33 h

Sounds like fuel leak. Check the fuel lines from the gas tank and look for any wet spots. If nothing is found, it may be gasses venting from the fuel tank.

This is a fairly typical issue with 1995 villagers. There is a defective hose in the filler spout area that actually has a recall on it. Take your verhicle to the dealer and they should replace the defective part for free.

It took me a very long time to find this problem. Check the fuel hose connections to the fuel injector rail; they leak in cold weather. Tightening the clamps will fix the problem for a while. Replaceing the hoses and clamps is the long term solution.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=info

Follow the instructions on Youtube.

I think the '93 has an electric speedo. Take it to the spedo shop.

Ihad the same problem far as i see there ain't one ended up going to a pull and pay and bought all sensers that were associated with the problem it ended up it was the maf sensor i took the rest of the parts back

Because of the complexity of this operation, it is strongly suggested that you consult a repair manual, or take the vehicle to a qualified mechanic. Changing the timing belt will require a substantial amount of disassembly and 4-6 hours of time. It will also require the fabrication or purchase of a special tool to hold the crankshaft in order to remove the pulley nut, or else you will need a very strong air ratchet wrench to knock it loose. You will need to remove all the drive belts, the A/C belt tensioner, any hose that's in the way, and raise the vehicle, remove the right wheel, inner splash guards, crankshaft pulley, timing cover, and tensioner to remove the belt. This is a good time to replace the water pump as it's driven by the timing belt. The timing marks in the sprockets must line up exactly with the marks on the belt, and this can be difficult to do, since the cams will want to move out of position due to the pressure of the valve springs on them.

There is an ignition switch or box located above the drivers knees at the base of the steering column. It has 2 screws in it and is 4" x1 1/2 " roughly. if you take out the 2 screws and you will have to remove all the other crap in the way of this task! You will have this little box in your hands and there is a little rod that if you slide it, it will take you through all the normal key turn functions!

So slide that lever up to where all the instruments on the dash lite up and push a little farther and the car will start!

I did this because the ignition switch broke. But really what broke was the rod that is between the ignition switch and this box described above! This rod run inside the steering column... I didn't want to pull the steering wheel and try to figure that on e out!

**** Now after 6 months of starting the car this way... This box itself has crapped out! I am researching what wires to tap together to get the car to start!

I have a good battery and the lights and windows work! The harness seems to have just stopped turning on the power and running through those key functions.

constant power is white/purple

starter wire is red

starter wire #2 is red/green

ignition wire is white/red

accessory wire white/green

second accessory wire is brown

Let the testing begin!

Usually on the right side of the engine bay beside the strut tower. Follow the cable from the throttle body and I'm sure you'll find it.

it's probably not, check your distributor, i had similar problems, changed regulator, fuel pump, car still would stall or hard start. it turned out to be my distributor. i will repeat, this is a problem with the villager, they go bad quick.

can you tell me where the knock sensor is located on a 3.3l mercury villager

I have a 1999 villager with check engine light on. Analysis of the codes indicates faulty knock sensor. I have not replaced it yet but according to the Haynes manual it is under the intake manifold.Upper and lower intake manifolds must be removed for access. If I learn anything else interesting when I get into the replacement I will send info. My 1999 Villager may have the same knock senser problerm and the fault code is "PO325, 1 of 4, 1 Circuit malfunction bank 1 or 1 senser". I am not likely to spend $500 on it since the knock senser applied only after 1990 and it is not that important as others. Am I right? Twoo weeks ago, I got PO400 and PO325 from my 97 Villager, the problem was caused by a hose off from behind the engine. Puting it back and cleaning up the codes solved the problem and this costs $24+tax. The po325 is cause by a weak hose behind the egr. The po400 can be caused by a motor mount, misfire. If the engine moves while you power brake(in drive with foot on brake) you probably need a mount .

I believe its located under the rear seat. I will have to check. I think I replaced one in my 84, and I dont think there is much difference.