Mitsubishi Eclipse

On the drivers (right) side of the engine, between the intake manifold and the air intake. It is about 2 inches high and has 2 vacuum lines coming from it to the throttle body.

Basicly you can see it when you open the hood.

Hi,

The Water Pump can be repaired easily.
You need to purchase a repair kit and 2 bearings.


The repairs can be done by anyone with a press machine.


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The Mitsubishi 380 was originally released in 2005 with two available transmissions available, either a 5-speed manual or a 5-speed tiptronic semi-automatic. However the manual was only available on the base model (the '380') and the VRX. All the other models had the auto as standard, while the 380 and VRX could be optioned with it.

The spark plug gap for a Mitsubishi L300 typically ranges from 0.7 to 0.8 mm (0.028 to 0.031 inches). However, it’s essential to consult the owner's manual or specific service documentation for your model year, as specifications may vary slightly depending on the engine type. Always ensure the spark plugs are set to the correct gap before installation for optimal engine performance.

140 hp stock

10 w30 is a good weight as long as it isn't to cold

Lancer evolution hands down. They are built for speed and handling. A gts on the other hand is just a little bit faster than a regular v6 eclipse.

EVOs are boss.

5-114.3

Pull the horn fuse - two fuses right of fuse 13.

About $ 500.00 for the top and arround $ 200.00 for the head linear + Labor

moderately fast

You don't, the light has to be repaired.

The same way you'd turbocharge any other vehicle - you can cobble together parts and do a backyard turbo kit, or you can spend approximately $3k for a turbo kit by Hahn Racecraft or Star. The HRC kit is customizable, so options exist for different turbos (standard was a 16G) and intercooling, and will take approximately 10 hours to install. Star made (makes?) a kit which utilized a bigger turbo at the cost of more lag - unfortunately the kit was not well documented and customer support was sporadic at best.

The price of used vehicles makes purchasing a GS-T/GSX/TSi/TSi-AWD a viable alternative, although insurance costs will be higher.

Some of the most complex problems have basic solutions. As a tech at Honda i ususally use the principle of

1. Check Spark

2. Is it getting fuel?

3. Do all the cylinders have compression?

You can fix just about anything using this. The very most common no start is spark, usually a bad igniter or wires

call me lucky, im at 155K on stock block with out any hint of crankwalk(yet :( ) but i dont rag my car from constant racing either, its all in how you take care of it like everything else.

1/ With bonnet open, pull the electrical plug away from the bulb (this may be quite stiff).

2/ Pull rubber cover away from bulb housing.

3/ Pull back clip which secures bulb in place.

4/ Bulb will now come out easily.

5/ Replace with new bulb ensuring you do not touch the glass part of the bulb as this can cause grease from fingers to get onto bulb which will heat up and shorten the life of your bulb.

6/ Put securing clip back on.

7/ Push rubber cover back onto bulb housing.

8/ Push electrical plug onto bulb connections firmly.

Job done.

simply disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and it will reset all of your learned fuel trims in your ecu

not developing enough vacuum while driving to keep the blend door open check your vacuum lines for leaks

where is the speed sensor located on a 95 eclipse 5 speed

possible on eBay or call junk yards

Two, an upstream and a downstream oxygen sensor.

Two, an upstream and a downstream oxygen sensor.

One is on top of the exhaust manifold, and is easy to spot. The other is under the car between the manifold and catalytic converter.

If the sensor and wires seem good, the last possibilities I know of are a bad flywheel which the sensor reads (I believe fixing this requires taking the engine apart), or a bad computer module. If you're a do-it-yourself'er, trying a new computer module would probably be easiest, and if that doesn't fix it, you should take it into a shop that can analyze the actual signal coming from the sensor (and also the crankshaft position sensor, since they need to be synchronized) with an oscilloscope. Ask for a printout or photo of the oscilloscope screen to make sure they're not cheating you. If the signals are good and replacing the computer module doesn't help, really the only thing left I can think of is the wiring.

It is located on the driver side of the air box behind the radio. Look from the top of the gas pedal up at a 30 degree angle to the fire wall, at the edge of the carpet is where it goes though the firewall. The air box is a black plastic box that fills the lower part of the dash behind the radio to app. 2 inches above the floor. The drain line is at the bottom corner of the box nearest the gas pedal exiting the firewall. The drain tube is fixed and is not removable. If it leaks the whole box has to be replaced or a new drain made and the lower part of the box modified to redirect the condensation to the new drain. In the engine compartment the tube barely comes though the wall, maybe a quarter of an inch and can only be seen from underneath on a lift. Personally I thought this was poor design due trash accumulation in it from the road and cracking due to not having any flexibility filling the floor board with cold clear water while driving. I have since modified mine after pissing away $100 on two shops(one was the local mitsibishi deal repair expert) that would not listen to the issue I descibed and tried to tell me it was ok and I had a leak from rain and car washes. My floor has not been wet since my modification.

This is all true, however, there is a bit more to it. If the insulation on your firewall begins to degrade, like mine did, the blower fan can suck this in as well as any other trash and since there is no cabin air filter it can pass it along to the evaporator housing which is what happened in my case. When I pulled the lower part of the housing off I took out enough trash to fill a plastic shopping bag. There is actually a TSB about this and how it should be retrofitted with a cabin air filter.

Remove your passenger front wheel, then you can see the crankshaft pully 4 bolts you have to remove the pully to gain access to the timing belt cover. after taking off both of those things the crankshaft pully then the lower half of the timing belt cover you will see the crankshaft position sensor.

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red blue and black wires are going to the sensor