Pontiac GTO

The common motor for '65 Bonneys was the 389 333hp for standard trans and the 325 hp for auto trans. There was a 421 4 barrell offered as well. Check for a 2 letter code on the front of the block. YK = 421. Other codes will be a 389. The block looks the same.

10,532 Pontiac GTOs were made in 1971.

12 dgrees before top dead center for a '68 - 69 era 400.

There isn't one. The battery connects directly to the solenoid.

why sure, most street race cars today are automatics as no one can shift a manual tranny as fast as an automatic.

Yes.

6 will put you in operating range

There are two "clips" that the seat spring framework hook into that hold it in place, at the bottom of the seat. To remove push down and back toward the back of the car (hard) on the bottom of the seat near where it meets the floor, and lift up when you feel them disengauge. They are located under the back seat on the floor behind the front seats. If you put your hand onder the seat you will be able to feel their location. Do one side at a time. No tools are reqired to get the lower part of the seat out, the upper part of the seat back clips in at the top and bolts down at the bottom. It is a simple process but requires a good bit of muscle to get them out.

that all depends on the condition of the car and if it's numbers matching, you can look on manheimgold.com for the prices.

The standard redline tires were G78 x 14.

yes it does there can be upgraded very cheeply tho

Newer GTOs are not one of my strong suites... It appears the axle stub refers to axles for independent rear suspension cars. Check out the link.

About 400

Pomona

You first must remove the rectangular skid plate underneath the engine. There are four 14mm bolts holding the skid plate. Removing the skid plate will expose the bottom of the engine where you will see the oil drain plug on the oil pan and the oil filter.

there are 4 bolts that hold the hood in place on the hood hinges, loosen the bolts and move hood around until you get it adjusted where the spacing is the same on both sides of the hood and tighten the bolts down, this takes 2 people to do it.

Check to make sure the rear axle has not been swapped. Factory pattern was 5 bolt with a 4 3/4" center. 5 on 4-3/4

Buick - Regal, Century, Special (most mid-size) '64-'80's

Chevy van

Chevrolet - all (exc as noted elsewhere) '49-'89

Corvette all

Corvair '65-'69 5-bolt

GM compact and midsize

Oldsmobile - 442, Cutlass, F-85, Toronado

(most mid-size) '60's-'80's

Pontiac - GTO, LeMans, Firebird, Grand Prix

(mid size) '64-'80's

A high performance cam can reduce engine life the same way glass-packs reduced the life of my first truck... The ole right foot tends to be a little heavier. Other than that let's look a couple of things. Upgrading the cam by its self is not normally done. The cam change brings on the whole "weakest link "cam scenario To maximize the change you need free (er) flowing valves and ports. Possibly new aluminum performance heads, you will shed about 60-70 lbs and be able to run a bit higher compression. You will have a steeper lobe profile requiring stronger valve springs. Your higher flowing package is now being choked down by that original carb... have to swap it out for a 750 double pumper. Now the package seems to be a hair restrictive on the exhaust side... what! no headers... well we need headers and a 2" true dual exhaust all the way back. (don't forget the nice chrome tipped ends and the "X" connector) Now we are looking good. ( you did get a higher flowing fuel pump and increase the fuel line to 1/2" didn't you?) OK, now we are looking good... well we did increase our horse power from the factory 350 to 450... seems we are running a little hot... Not a problem, after all we have been through a higher flowing water pump and an aluminum radiator won't take long... Now we are done. What about the spark... points? that won't do. An electronic distributor with rev limiter should do the trick. Now we have a package that works together pretty well. Engine life... well those fancy aluminum roller rockers we put in there will have to be adjusted more often than the factory ones, they won't last as long either. But you should be happy with the engine life.... The driveshaft, rear axle and tire life? You might not be impressed with them. Upgrade when you get some extra money... GL

call year one and see if they have a book on it.

Gran Turismo Omoligato.

Yes it is. There are higher capacity fuel pumps available to solve the fuel shortage problem at the canister. see link

facing the head of the plug bolt, you should be turning counter-clockwise. Common dude, remember "righty tighty, lefty loosey"? Oldschool.

I found this on another site:

"The following is the tune up and wheel align specs for the 1963 V-8 389

A. single carb,,sprk plg gap-.035,,dist point gap-.016/ Turn Adjusting Screw In (Clock Wise) Until Engine Misfires, Then Back Off Screw 1/2 Turn,,,Dwell Angle 30 deg,,,Firing Order- 18436572,,Ignition Timing-6 deg BTDC/Mark Location-Damper,,,Valve Lash-intake/exhaust-zero,,,Wheel Alignment-caster-( - 1 1/2 ) camber ( + 1/4 ) toe in ( 0-1/8 )

B. tri-carb,,tune up and wheel align specs are the same as single carb

That's the best i can do, my manuals don't go back any farther than 1966."

The answer is 802. pf the 802, 390 had stock 17" wheels and 412 had stock 18"wheels.

there is a yellow pull tab under the right rear headrest