Porsche 944

To replace the air filter on a Porsche 944, first locate the air filter housing, which is typically on the driver's side of the engine bay. Remove the screws or clips securing the housing cover and take off the cover. Remove the old air filter, clean the housing if necessary, and then insert the new filter, ensuring it fits snugly. Finally, reattach the housing cover and secure it with the screws or clips.

On an Isuzu Trooper, the jack points are typically located near each wheel, specifically under the body frame or directly under the axle. For the front wheels, the jack points are usually found just behind the front tires, while for the rear wheels, they are located in front of the rear tires. Always consult the owner's manual for the exact locations and proper jacking procedures to ensure safety and avoid damage.

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Current Porsches cost between about US$45,000 and US$190,000. The Cayenne (SUV) comes at a base price of just under US$45,000. The 911 GT2 (sports car) has a base price of just over US$190,000.

low oil pressure can be caused by a blocked or part blocked gause at the bottom of the oil pump, the oil pump itself or a faulty oil pressure sensor unit. Try replacing the oil pressure sensor first as this was the problem with my one.

They cost about £330,000 and you can get them in roadster version or coupe. They go 208mph and have about 600bhp. Mercedes have recently stopped poduction of these cars because of poor sales, so if you happen to be signing for a premiership football club in the next few months you could be dissapointed.

Which temperature switch, there are 2. One is the DME temp switch and that one is close to the water inlet at the top of the motor and usually has a blue connector. The dash sensor is located in the middle of the block under the intake manifold and is a single wire sensor.

I believe the last time the 944 was made was in 1991 which would make it an R-12 unless it has already been retrofitted for R-134a.

It really isnt too bad. Im getting ready to give my 944 a tune up and it consists of new plugs (5 dollars a piece) new plug wires (75 dollars a set) distributor and rotor (about 60 dollars) Air filter (i bought a K and N racing filter for 45 dollars) and thats about it. Of course you should flush the coolant system and add new coolant. Change the oil and filter which is cheap and easy to do. This will do wonders for the engine and make sure you save all your reciepts and dates they were changed to pass on to the next owner that would want to buy it in the event you go to sell it. Hope this helps

pull hood release latch, located on the driver side left foot

Changing the cap is easy but the problems you can cause are not. Make sure you are careful and do everything step by step. DO NOT Take off the wires until the proper step. Read all the instructions first so you can see the stupid things NOT TO DO!!

1. The experts say take the ground strap off the battery. That prevents the engine from getting power. If a gremlin cranked the engine while you were working in this area things could get unpleasant.

2. Make sure you have all the parts necessary. I recommend a rotor button and distributor cap as the minimum. But if your distributor cap is really shot then a set of spark plug wires will probably be a good buy too.

3. Using a flat bladed screwdriver that fits in the slot, you push in the metal studs on the top and bottom of the distributor cap and turn a 1/4 turn. They are not screws. Try to take the cap off. If it doesn't come off then push in the stud and turn another 1/4 turn. Try to take it off. If it doesn't come off, repeat and I recommend doing one side at a time to make sure that side is loose. They look like screws but they are pieces of L-shaped metal rods that fit in a slot and are turned a 1/4 turn. The spring tension against the underside of the housing is what holds the cap on.

4. With the cap off, set the new cap beside it oriented the same way. Take one wire off at a time and put it in the corresponding hole in the new cap. Pull on the big rubber boot and not the wires. They stick and may have to be pried loose with a small flat screwdriver. Be careful here as if you split the boot the wire must be replaced. If you pull on the wire and not the boot, you usually break the wire. Each wire MUST go in the proper hole or the car either won't start or the worst case, the engine can self-destruct.

5. If you decide to replace the sparkplug wires too (my recommendation) then you do this. With the new cap sitting beside the old one (still in the car), you take the longest new wire. Pull the wire off the spark plug closest to the passenger compartment. Put the new wire on the spark plug. then as you pull the old wire off the looms (the u-shapped plastic pieces holding the wires in place) you put the new wire in its place. Finally you get to the distributor cap, put the new wire in the new cap in the coresponding hole as the old one was in. Be careful and note how the boot on the old wire is oriented to the cap and put the new one on the new cap oriented in that same way. You want to route the wires in the same places in the looms because electromagnetic induction can cause "cross-firing" which can also destroy the engine.

6. The rotor button is held on by a set screw on the side of the button that faces the ground ( so you can't see it). I don't remember what size Allen wrench you use and unfortunately some cars use metric screws and some cars use standard but I would try metric first and yoour new button should have a new screw so you can try the size that fits that one first.

This is an easy job if you do it step by step and have all the necessary parts. If you get in a hurry or try to take a shortcut then you can cause yourself a lot of problems. The above description is how I did it. I jerked all the wires off first then didn't know which went where. I finally found the firing order to see what hole which wire went in, but that reference ( Porsche website) mentioned the cross-firing problem if the looms are not done right. Naturally, it didn't have a description of how to do it right. Luckily someom at work had a 944 and after waylaying him at his car, he agreed to come over and let me look at hhis as I fixed mine. It isn't a problem any longer as I own four of the things now. A 1983, 1984, 1985 early model and 1985 late model. I am a soldier stationed in Germany and the things are easy to buy from PCSing soldiers here.

The radio relay part # is 944 615 10300 and may be the same as the sunroof relay. Its located under the driver's dash by the console. There's a small plastic panel bolted to the dash and console that has to be removed

Just answered this issue for my daughter-in-law. She has a 94 Z71 with 204000 on the clock but was fitted with a new engine in 2001. Maybe has 50,000 on the new motor, I didn't check.

She changes the oil every 3,000 miles but otherwise does nothing. Widows are so not into it.

This past week she called with a problem. Changed the oil again but noticed the temp gauge was higher than normal (about 225 usually) and the oil pressure dropped to almost the red line (on the low side) at red lights.

What's a father-in-law to do? Give up some time on the holidayweekend of course. Comes with the territory. If the son was alive and functioning I'd never hear about it right?

So I think about what she told me. "Dad, I change the oil every 3 thou, like religiously." (Yeah, right. This is the gal who can't remember to pay the phone bill on time). OK, I believe her, she changed the oil and all hell broke loose. Happens all the time .....right.

I bought a new oil sender unit and installed it. Checked the pressure- 40 at start up, cold. Drops to 25 - 28 when hot. AOK in my book. Now we wait and see. Bought a pan gasket set in case.....we wait and see.

In the older cars it's in the engine bay above the passenger footwell. In the newer ones it's in the left hand side of the boot.

It is 5x130mm.

terminal 30 in wiring diag, most likely a red wire

Gotta be careful.

With the key in the 'on' position (don't need to actually start the car), turn on the headlights so they pop up.

Then, turn the key off so the lights turn off, but don't turn the knob back off, as they will pop back down.

There is a screw at the bottom of the black assembly around the light itself. Remove the screw, and the black thing should pop off.

Now, there are three screws you need to remove from the retaining ring around the light itself. One at the top, and two on either side at the bottom, evenly spaced. Remove these three, and make sure you don't accidentally take out the 2 aiming screws, or you will have to take it to a shop and have the headlights re-aligned so you don't blind people.

Remove the retaining ring, and the headlight should basically just slide right out. Remove the connector from the back (the whole big bulb thing is the light, there's no little bulb like newer cars) and connect the new light.

Fit the new light back it, there are 3 little recessed dips in the hole where the light goes, and 3 tabs on the light itself that fit right in. Make sure the light is rotated correctly, if it's upside down or something it wont illuminate the road properly.

Now put the retainer ring back over the light, and screw it back in.

Put the black plastic thing back on, make sure it slides into the proper borders with the light cover, and screw it back together.

Repeat for the other side.

Turn the key back to the "On" position, and make sure the lights work.

All Done!

By the way, the light type for a Porsche 944 is H6024, and any variant of H6024 (H6024ST, etc)

I bought my 1988 944 Turbo and it was using a lot of oil--about 1 liter per 500 miles. I changed the oil and put in a recommended Valvoline race oil (VR1) 20w50. It almost completely stopped using excessive oil--only about 1 liter every 1000 miles or more. This is factory spec (1-1.5 liters every 1000 miles is normal usage).

Apparently, these older motors love the heavier stuff. And the race oil has this chemical that's good for the seals (not sold in "off-the-shelf" reg oil).

I'm guessing the previous owner was running some modern, light oil like 5w30 synthetic.

Good luck, Dan

About 190 with the 4 cylinder 2.0l dohc