Rover 400 Series

The cut off valve is located BEHIND the centre console low down next to the clutch pedal

Should be in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

According to my Haynes manual, 20Nm. Tighten to this force on the first cycle of bolts (in the correct order) and then half a turn on the next cycle, and then another half a turn on the last cycle.

Under the bonnet by the battery it also works the horn

iT WILL RESET WHEN THE PROBLEM IS REPAIRED.

1.6

On the rovers the first number is the series model, yours being 4 makes it a 400 series.. the last two are the engine size yours being 16 makes it a 1.6L (commonly termed as a sixteen hundred engine) hope that helps.

how often do i have to change the timing belt on my rover400

It schould be on the passenger side of the vehicle, right behind the radiator in a plastic egg shaped thing, in line with the radiator hose.

whereis the inertia switch on a 1996 range rover

You might want to try calling your local Honda dealership with the Vehicle Identification Number. You may have to remove the radio to give them a code off the back of the unit.

Follow the top hose from the radiator to the engine block. The thermostat is in the housing that the hose is connected to at this location

You must open the hood. Then locate the engine.

Feel the side of the engine; Is it soft to the touch? Rub it and whisper that you mean it no harm. The spark plugs will then fall out under it.

more than likerly its the ecu not pumping fuel in,common faults include crank sensor fowled up,or needs replacing,overheat sensor fault,or even fuel pump fault,l would first check if you are getting fuel to the fuel rail,could also be snapped cam belt,or jumped a couple of teeth(timing could be out)also check you have a spark at the plugs,and lastly a compression test might help,but the ecu is favorite not a good place to locate a piece of kit like this.

If it's the 2ltr diesel it has an automatic spring loaded tensioner mounted down below the alternator. A bit tight for space down there if you need to change it.

on the back inside the pipe it self

You replace it. Should be next to the trans case.

There isn't one that i know of. I used to own a beige one 12 years ago before they went out of production.

~###~

Thanks for your interest and help - oringial poster here. Turns out it was the Catalitic converter - once removed the car ran fine, but then had to be scraped for other reasons. Anyway - if you get similar issues it could be the cat...

Thanks again,

L

~###~

More info:

Hi,

I have an S reg Rover 400 2 litre sli - only had it a couple of years, so don't know much of it's history.

It's been a great car, but last year I think something went wrong with the alternator - basically - the battery runs down every time I leave the car for a few hours with ignition off. I checked as much of the electrics as I can, and could find no where shorting out - and I hear that this engine can have rectifier issues - so had been guessing it could be this. Anyway I fixed this prob by simply removing one of the battery connectors every time I stop the car for a period. Bit of a pain, but been waiting to see if car will make it to next MOT - before getting it fixed, as am broke, and only use the car for long journey to family/friends - not for commuting, so rarely used.

Anyway - gave you the back story in case you think this could have any baring on the current issue.

Drove 5 hours to Devon on Friday from London. Car was fine.

Left parked and started to drive home on Sunday. Was struggling to accelerate fast, but seemed fine - just figured engine was cold, then about 30 minutes into journey as was picking up speed to hit motorway the engine seemed to lose all power. Stamping on clutch and taking foot off accelerator the engine seemed to go back to normal revs - so again I tried to pick up speed as road was clear. Again same thing happened. On hard shoulder - looked at rev counter and noticed that basically this happened when hit 3000rpm - so as a service station was 9 miles ahead I limped the car on there keeping it under 3000rpm (about 60mph - so was safe to be on m-way)

Got there and called AA - but they wouldn't come out until the car would not start/run - so drove at 60mph all the way home (amazing how good petrol consumption is at that speed)

Anyway, last night had to give my brother a lift and after warming up engine for a minute found that now wasn't letting me get above 1500rpm. Was late and he was going to miss last bus so limped it on again - but after a few minutes could get to 2000rpm with out cutting out, then be time was home again was going up to 3000 again.

Anyway - going to give it more of a look over tomorrow. So far with my limited knowledge I've loooked into the followin: does not seem to be oil in water, does not have water in oil - no excessive smoking - bit of a rattle to engine, but nothing major.

Any ideas? Change spark plugs? Air filter (was wondering if it wasn't getting enough air?)

Cheers, and let me know if I can provide any more info - and thanks for reading this far! I owe you one!

Crow

Hi

The first thing I would do is replace the fuel filter, which is cheap and you can probably do yourself no probs. For immediate relief take off fuel filter and clean it out with fuel, it may be clogged. But do replace it if it is clogged, even if you unclog it it will soon clog up again.

J

To disarm a Rover 400 alarm from 1997 without a key fob or PIN code, you can try disconnecting the car battery for about 10-15 minutes, which may reset the alarm system. Alternatively, locate the alarm control unit, usually found under the dashboard or in the engine compartment, and disconnect it directly. If these methods don't work, consulting a professional locksmith or automotive technician familiar with Rover systems may be necessary for further assistance.

Depending on the year,from 96-2000 the only bleed `screw` is-look between the air box and the cylinder head,on top of the gearbox housing is an 8mm nut,simply undo that and leave out until all the air/water has began to gush out of it,then refit,make sure you have topped up the coolant sufficiently or it will have to be done again once the water has begun to circulate,you will know when the system is bled,put you heater on no2 and not on recirculate air,tighten the filler cap and run the car at around 2000 rpm for around 10 mins,when you see the water beig shot too the side of the filler bottl constantly then your bled up,let the system cool and check coolant level.

open the boot, unclip the boot covering near whichever bulb you need to replace.

Here you'll see a black box where the bulbs are situated. Look towards the top middle of the box and you will see a small flat bit poking out. press this down towards the floor fairly firmly and it will click into place. then you can pull the bulb housing unit out of place and remove the bulb you need to change.

Take the bulb with you to the car spares shop and compare it to the ones you are looking at to get the right bulb.

Underneath by the radiator. White plastic bulb with three hoses on it.