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Saab
Saab vehicles are manufactured by the Swedish automaker Saab Automobile AB. The vehicles produced by the company, like the Saab 9-3 SportSedan and the Saab 9-5 Sedan, are known for their innovative design, outstanding safety and green technology.
951 Questions
How do you replace the rad on a Saab 900?
What do you mean by "rad"? Radiator? Radio? Which year?
The radiator in the classic 900 (1979-93) is easy to replace. Should take only about an hour.
1) Remove hood. Drain coolant (drain petcock is on the right side).
2) Remove upper and lower hoses to radiator
3) Remove ignition coil attached at top of radiator
4) Remove two bolts at top of radiator
5) Lift radiator out.
6) Install new or rebuilt radiator.
7) Fill with new anti-freeze/coolant.
Where is the fuse panel on a 2003 Saab 9-3?
Open the driver's side door and look on the left side of the dash facing the open door. There is a small black panel with a finger hole towards the rear of the car. Pull on the panel towards the open door and it should pop open. The fuse panel is inside and there should be a number layout and spare fuses on the backside of the panel.
What part do you need to hold the headlamp washer covers in place on your 2003 SAAB 9-5?
I used Gorilla Glue. It has worked for 2-3 years
"Place the key in the ignition and start the vehicle. Like other vehicles, the Saab has an alarm box under the driver-side dash board. Press and hold in the override button until the alarm chirps one time.
Lift and secure the hood of the vehicle so it doesn't fall on you, then look for the fuse box. On Saab vehicles, the fuse box sits to the right of the engine, next to the firewall.
Locate the correct fuse. Most fuse boxes have the fuses labeled clearly. If the fuses aren't labeled, look at the diagram on the back of the fuse box cover to determine which fuse connects to the alarm.
Pull the fuse. Use a fuse puller tool to remove the fuse from the fuse box carefully. Put the cover back on the fuse box, and close the hood of the car."
Per it still runs .com
the microswitch is self adjusting and may be pushed in too far so not turning the lights off
remove the switch from the car
undo the switch case remove the plunger and
pull it each end click click to make it longer
refit plunger in case put switch back together
dont push the plunger at all
press brake pedal down keep it pressed down
refit the switch to the car
release the brake pedal and you should hear the swith
click click as it adjusts the plunger to the right length
check the operation of the brake lights
job done
Which tool is needed for turning back the calipers on a Saab 9-3?
There is a special tool specifically made for that but I used a medium sized pry bar (18 inch long, tip is about 3/4 inch wide) all you have to do is put the pry bar flat end or chisel in one of the grooves and rotate the caliper in. If the caliper has a lot of resistance then replace it. It should move very freely with very little resistance. It's called a "loaded caliper". used on rear brakes with integrated e-brake.
Why do the reversing lights on a 1999 Saab 9-3 stay on?
There could be a bad relay switch. The fuse that goes to these particular lights may also need replaced as well.
How do you change a slave cylinder on a 1987 Saab?
If you have a 1987 Saab 900 here is the rough overview. disconnect the battery ground cable at the battery. Remove the turbo boost pipes (if it's a turbo) and then remove the black plastic flywheel/clutch shroud. If your slave cylinder still works then have someone step on the clutch and hold it while you insert a "ring" to keep the clutch depressed after the slave is released (person lets up on the pedal). Some guys use an old spark plug wire for this "ring". I use a piece of #6 solid copper wire (no insulation) formed into a ring. You place this ring under the fingers of the clutch cover so that it holds the springs and pressure plate in the fully depressed position. This can be tedious and you must get the pressure plate fully depressed or you'll be screwed later in the process. If your slave is non-functional, forget the assistant stomping the clutch pedal, (and if you don't have the big lever tool that Saab provided their dealers with), back off all the bolts holding the clutch cover to the flywheel (don't remove them) and using pry bars or large screwdrivers pry the cover away from the flywheel and place spacers to hold. work your way around until the cover is spaced away fron the flywheel evenly. you may have to graduate spacers and go around more than once and you may have to install longer bolts as you go. If you remove to many bolts at once and the cover slips off of being concentric you'll be sorry. The loose bolts act as alignment pins, see. Also don't let a spacer fall out as you pry for the next one (tape). Another trick is to replace the cover bolts with longer bolts with a nut between the cover and flywheel and then just back off the nuts which will lift the cover. That method is foolproof but you have to have the right bolts and nuts. Once the clutch is fully released insert the aforementioned "ring". Next, crack loose the hose at the slave. Get it finger tight. Remove the three bolts that hold the slave to the transmission. If these are the correct 5mm Allen bolts you may have to make a stubby Allen wrench. Pop the retaining spring and remove the round cover plate and flat o'ring at the front/top of the trans. and carefully unscrew the 4-winged plastic thrust device from the end of the clutch shaft. insert a short bolt and use a pry bar to pop out the shaft. draw the shaft as far out as it will come. Remove the (loose) bolts from the clutch cover/flywheel, pry the slave toward the flywheel until it is free and enjoy lifting the entire assembly; friction plate, clutch cover and slave out as a unit. The alignment pins in the flywheel make this extra tricky and rotating both the flywheel (engine) and clutch cover may be necessary. By the way, the safe way to turn the engine when needed is to jack up one front wheel, remove the spark plugs, keep the car in 1st gear and turn the wheel. Like I said if you fail to depress the clutch fully before inserting the "ring" you won't be able to squeeze the three pieces (disc, cover and slave) together enough to clear and remove. See if you can borrow the Saab tools from your mechanic friend at the dealership (lots a luck). If you are just doing the slave then assembly is the reverse of disassembly (right?). If you're replacing the clutch don't forget to have your flywheel machined and replace the pilot bearing. Torque all your bolts carefully, don't over-torque and apply some blue Locktight (med. strength) to the flywheel/crankshaft bolts and the flywheel/ clutch cover bolts. Put a little "Permatex #2 (non-hardening) on the little slave/trans. case bolts. After you get your new slave in here is the best trick for bleeding it fast and easy. Attach a two foot long piece of clear plastic hose (hardware store) to the bleed nipple on the slave. Hold the hose upright and carefully pour fluid in the hose Open the nipple and apply a little air pressure to force the fluid through. I just wipe clean the hose and blow but you could use compressed air (2 psi) if you are squeamish. Tighten the nipple just before the tubing is empty. Of course, keep an eye on your master cylinder fluid level. If your clutch shaft seal is leaking they are very difficult to remove. Here's my trick; Obtain an old Saab 900 manual transmission layshaft. When we rebuild we often throw these away. Insert the end with the groove/hook into the seal and lay it back. The seal will pop right out. Use only a genuine Saab replacement seal, others will fail. If you have removed the flywheel for machining, replace the crankshaft seal too. Buy a REAR crankshaft seal of course. Good luck!
If it is a Saab 9000, you have to remove the tranny, and that may sound daunting, but it really is only a matter of knowing what to take off and in what order. Not that bad of a job once you get into it.
Go to http://www.quasimotors.com/clutch.htm
Here you will find the complete procedure, with color pictures, diagrams, warnings, etc. Everything you need, and easier to follow than the Shop Manuel. I used this info to change mine in a 90 Saab 9000 Turbo, and it was dead on . . . however, you best plan on it taking the whole weekend . . .
My guess is your Saab is around a '95 or '96, isn't it? If so...
There was a design flaw around that time...later years switched to a hydraulic clutch setups.
The problem was there was NO provision to adjust clutch cable lenght as it aged and stretched. Eventually from stretching the clutch would not be fully disengaged even when the pedal was pushed all the way down. In my '95 900S Turbo Convertable this started as hard to shift (or even crunching) into reverse, then as things got worse hard to shift into 1st too. Got so bad I had to turn off the engine, shift into reverse, and then start up the engine. Makes it tough to remove the ignition key when you can't put it into reverse!
There was an engineering modification notice about these that called for the dealer to put an extra spacer washer in place when replacing the clutch cable. (The new cable comes with one spacer washer, the engineering change was to install two...to give it that much more space before cable stretched too much.)
Originally I fashioned an extra spacer that I inserted between the cable-end "ball" and the clutch arm, effectively shortening the cable by the width of the spacer, and giving me a few more months of operation. Eventually the cable snapped and I had it replaced. The way I made the spacer: I took a fender washer and cut a slot in it big enough for the cable to squeeze through. I bent the washer into a semi-circle to roughly match the curvature of the ball on the end of the clutch cable. Then I pulled on the end of the cable, and slipped the bent washer over the cable.
Note a mechanic at a Saab dealer told me I had higher clutch pressure than normal, which is why after a year and 20k miles the new cable started to stretch all over again. Apparently when a clutch had previously been put in the car something hadn't been replaced, that caused excessive friction that exacerbated the situation.
Faced with an estimate of $2000 to replace the high-friction part (same as cost to put in a whole new clutch), coupled with my roof was starting to have "issues"...I sold the car.
What kind for automatic transmission fluid does 2004 Saab require?
Because a 2004 Saab is a GM car, use GM-approved ATF. If I had a car that new, I'd go to a Chevy dealership for ATF.
Although I loved the styling, speed, and handling of my 1995 saab 900se turbo convertible I cannot reccommend them as a sound purchase.
They are expensive when new, but do tend to lose their resale value quickly, which means a used one can be had cheaper than the equivalent used other higher end vehicles such as volvos, mbz, or even bmws (which also depreciate quickly.)
But in my area of the East Bay area east of SF in Northern CA there were not a lot of saabs to be found. Therefor there were few independent repair places familiar enough with the saab ways of doing things to work on them competently.(in my case, none that I could find). So whenever something happened to it I ended up having it towed to a saab dealer and paying thousands in repairs that with other vehicles, at independent shops, I'd be paying hundreds.
It got to the point that my saab, with 135,000 miles, was working fine. But I could tell it would need a clutch soon, and the dealer had quoted $2000 for a clutch job. And the power retractable convertible roof, while still working most of the time, had started to have an occasional hiccup. And I had read of other convertible owners having spent up to $5000 on repeated top mechanism repairs before calling it quits and selling.
So my Saab, that I truly loved to drive, and compared well with high end cars ten years newer, went on Craigslist. I had paid $5000 for this originally $40,000+ new car, when it had 100,000 miles and the clutch had been replaced at 90,000. I kept it 3 years, put 35,000 miles on it, and sold it for $400 less than I paid for it. But that doesn't take into account the dealer replaced alternator ($1000) or the broken clutch cable (about $800 with some other work too.)
And now Saab is defunct, so although for now GM dealers will support them, there are no longer any Saab dealers...and I question how much familiarity non-saab service departments will have with their peculiarities as time goes by.
Bottom line: don't buy it. If you have one and it's working well, sell quick before it breaks. If you have a broken one already, I'm sorry for you, hope you have a lot of repair funds put aside.
Where is the obd plug in a 1993 Saab 9000 cs?
Under the passenger seat, facing forward. Its a pre OBD connector.
Is Saab a good place to purchase used cars from?
SAAB is a great place to buy used cars from. They operate worldwide, including America, Asia/Pacific, Europe, and the Middle East/Africa. SAAB has had sopme greta reviews online, and is recommended greatly by others.
How old is Mario from Super Mario Bros?
Right now mario is 32 years old. The first game he was ever in was donkey kong from 1981.
Read more: How_old_is_mario_mario
How much will it cost to repair a 1999 Saab 9-5 head gasket?
Head gasket repair for a 1999 Saab 9-5 3.0l.
Where is belt tensioner on Saab 93 2.0?
I have worked with my 1994 and 1995 models of 900 - presuming the same for newer models. The tensioner is located on theupper end near the firewall. I found it most easily managed by using a 1/2 inch breaker bar.
How do you remove a 1996 Saab 9000 radio?
I have the same car... with a recent radio problem myself. Use a metal coat hangar you dont mind ruining, and cut the hook part off. Put both cut ends into the two holes on both sides ( one on each side) at the top of the radio. Then while pressing up, slide the radio out. It should slide out with ease.
Yes it is. It isn't as Saabish as many pre-GM cars but under new ownership you can get new 9-3's very cheap.
What could be wrong if a 1988 Saab transmission slips in second gear?
If you are accelerating in second gear and it seams as though the power is not getting to the ground, you may need a new clutch, check with your mechanic. This will only get worse and you will notice it in other gears as well. Check with a Saab club to find a good mechanic in your area if you don't already have one. Saabs aren't typical cars and a good mechanic is important. if the gear selector slips out, it's probably the gear frame where your gear selector is. if you have an automatic tranmission or you mean like "slipping in the snow", i don't know. sorry...
How do you replace the dice unit on a 1998 Saab 93?
DICE UNIT REPLACEMENT [93 03-07]STEP 1 Remove the driver side kick panelSTEP 2 Remove the air ductSTEP 3 Remove the screw that holds the relay panel holder and move holder out of the waySTEP 4 Remvoe the screws that hold the dice unit and remove the unitSTEP 5 Refit in reverse
