Saab

It means "autostore." You use it for creating radio presets.

-Starter shot -Starter Relay is bad. -Crank Position Sensor is bad? There are more possibilities.

When you open the back hatch, you'll see two penny-sized black plastic caps near the brake light. They are on the rear-facing lip that is ordinarily covered by the closed hatch, between the rubber seal and the brake light. Pry those off, and you'll see screws. To remove the screws, you'll need the original tool kit that came with your Saab, because the screws take a six-sided star screwdriver (not a standard hex/allen screwdriver). Once the two screws are removed, pry the tail light assembly out to the side. If it's the driver-side brake light, pry left, for the passenger pry right, because there are metal pins holding the tail light assembly onto the side of the car, and you don't want to break those pins by pulling straight back toward the rear of the car. The brake lights, on the body of the car, take P21/5W bulbs, and the tail lights, on the hatch, take P21. The two are NOT interchangeable...Put a P21/5W in the hatch and it will eventually melt the plastic; put a P21 in the brake and it will be too dim.

Where is the low pressure port to recharge air conditioner on 2004 saab 93 linear

Swap to... what? A turbo-4? A V-8? A Mazda Rotary engine? A jet engine out of a Saab Grippen? What is it you are trying to accomplish? If it is an engine rebuild you are talking about, start with the factory shop manual. The manual is not cheap, but neither is a rebuild... or the change to a different engine. You need to educate yourself about the integrated systems of the existing engine before you can attempt to change to a different engine. An "engine swap" is not as easy these days, with computer controlled engine management systems that also must work with the traction control, anti-lock brakes, and other computer controlled sub-systems on the vehicle.

There isn't one. Saab deleted the transmission drain plug on the 900 in the early 1990s, claiming that the transmission oil was a "lifetime fill." If you want to change the oil, the old gearbox lube will need to be drawn out through the transmission dipstick tube with a siphon pump. Saab recommends 10W-30 engine oil as the medium of lubrication. Check your Owners Manual for other options. Note from a professional: It is not possible to properly drain all of the oil through the dipstick tube. It is preferable and recommended by SAAB to remove the stamped steel differential cover (8 bolts). With the car jacked up from the front, full draining is assured. The differential cover contains an oil "catcher" and filter which should be dismantled and cleaned--you will find bits of metal and junk here. Look for an excessive number of larger metal chips or "mud" which would indicate harsh use of the transmission and/or incipent pinion bearing failure. Be sure to use a new gasket when you put the cover back on. 10W-30 engine oil (petroleum oil, NOT SYNTHETIC OIL) is preferred.

The fuel port injector are more than likely clogged. The second option is to make sure the fuel pump is working.

SAAB stands for Svenska Aeroplan Aktiebolaget, which is Swedish for Swedish Aeroplane Limited.

The answer from GKK below was very helpful. There is one small difference between his 2003 Saab 9-3 and my 2001 Saab 9-5 Aero. There is a metal clip holding the bulb socket in place. I took the clip off from the top and then unplugged the old low beam headlight bulb. I used some dielectric grease (available at Advanced Auto for $1) to coat the prongs of the new headlight bulb. Other than those small changes between the 9-3 and the 9-5, everything stated below works fine.

Also, make sure you ask for your military discount at Advanced Auto or Auto Zone. Both are real good to honor your service with a 10% discount. I appreciate them for being the few that still do that especially when the USA is presently deployed in two wars.

I hope this answers the question for you. I have a 2003 SAAB 9-3 and I'm hoping it's the same as for a 9-5. I just replaced the low-beam bulb on the passenger side. Bought at Autozone for $14.99 (H7 Sylvania Halogen). 1. Remove rubber cover. 2. Pull and twist plug to the right (towards drivers side). It should slip right off when everything is aligned. Use a flashlight. 3. Now that you have the plug assembly out, pull out the bulb. Easier said then done. It's in there very tight. I actually used a needle nose plier to grap a hold of the bulb plate itself. This doesn't twist, nor is it clipped on. It's just in there tight. So use the plier, and work you way around the bulb plate (don't know what else to call it). Tah, dah... I believe there's only one way for the new bulb to go in, so insert it into the plug and put everything back. Hope this works for your 9-5. Good luck from GKK.

I would see your local Saab dealer.

Have you had any belts changed recently? That could be the cause. Turbo wear can cause a whistle as can a leak on the inlet manifold, though a manifold leak usually affects the performance also.

If the starting problem only happens in the Summer when it is really hot and after a short drive when the engine is hot, it is an overheated neutral safety switch. Many were defective and if you replace it from a junk yard, you can get another bad one.

Try this. Keep a container of water in your car. When the car does not crank, squirt water on the NSS to cool it off. It looks like a base that the battery is resting on ( in my 2001 9-3). When it is cool, the car will start. Really.

You can adjust the headlights on a Saab 9.3 using the switches inside of the car. There should be a function to turn the highlights on, off and bright.

it is a timing change, no need to replace

Pre-owned SAAB prices depend solely on the make, model, year, mileage, and condition. That said, prices can vary from $4,000 up to new car prices in the $30,000 price range.

Ummm well yes and no. It really depends which model and its age and mileage. SAABs are often noted for having a lot of electrical problems. Be warned if you do have problems parts are very expensive and many of the cars systems are very complex and unique to SAAB so you may need to take it to a specially trained mechanic.

P1141 Saab O2S Heater Circuit, Current Too Low, Sensor 2

That code means that the car is not getting the signal it expects from your rear oxygen sensor. It could be a bad oxygen sensor, bad connection/wiring, or even a problem (much less likely) with the ECU. By far the most likely cause is either a failed oxygen sensor or a broken/melted section of the sensor wiring.

You can also check fuse 15 in your fuse panel as the oxygen sensors both run through this fuse. There is most likely not an issue with that fuse but it is very easy to check and worth the 30 seconds it takes.

When did it last blow cool air? I'm sure that you have checked all the switches etc on the dash. Ensure that the belt that spins the compressor is in place. Since you have not mentioned any other problems with the car it probably has it's own belt. If that is in place you may need a mechanic to verify that there is Freon (refrigerant) in the system. Do not go tinkering with that system yourself as repairs can be expensive and releasing refrigerant from the system can be dangerous and illegal. You might also ensure that all your fuses are intact.

5x110, 40 mm.

It shold show a diagram in the owners manual. (Our 9000 Saabs show the layout.) Don't have a manual? Get one!

yes

Dexcool

Through the dip stick tube.

The transmission computer has detected a problem and set a code. It also has enter failsafe mode and locked itself in 4th gear. Have the system checked for codes. That will tell you or the mechanic what the computer thinks is wrong.

That's an usual fault but suspect CIM