Saab

Rough idling is whenever the vehicle's motor "misses" or does not fire causing an imbalance and a loss of rotation reducing the motor's power and causing excessive shaking.

Propably battery not charging - might be bad battery , alternator, or some connection. I had the same problem few days ago, fitted new battery and it is ok now.

some small brands like Spyker and Donkervoort are from the netherlands.

Spyker is owner of Saab to.

and the Daf trucks are dutch to.

There are two ways you can do this. You can remove the black strip that runs in the center of the bumper by just "popping it out" (which is what I did) by putting a towel on the paint finish to not scratch it and used a screwdriver to pop it out.

Or you can push the actual lens cover back towards the tire and it would just pop right out. It took me less that 5 minutes to replace. To me, the safest way was removing the black strip.

Good Luck!

U.S. ratings:
2.0L 8-valve = 110 HP
2.0L 16-valve = 135 HP
2.0L 16V turbo = 165 HP

The bluebook value for a 2010 Saab would vary depending on the condition, rims, and everything. In order to find out what someone would have to out their information in the kelly bluebook website to find the about price of it.

You have to go to your local Saab dealer to get a new key. Unfortunately that cost a lot of money !

Saabs always rank among the safest cars in the IIHS Crash Test Results.

http://www.iihs.org/ratings/

Folksam insurance calls Saabs "The Safest Cars in Sweden."

http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2006/03/01/hmn_feature24.html

Well, it depends on what you mean by saying the 'gears grind in reverse'...If the noise is while you are trying to shift INTO reverse, and if your Saab is around the 1995 vintage, then it is a common problem caused by the stretching of the non-adjustable clutch linkage cable:

The 1995 Saab (and maybe a year either side of it) used a cable from your clutch pedal to the clutch arm off the transmission. As it gets older it stretches. Reverse is the gear that will start grinding first as the cable stretches and the clutch is not actually being fully dis-engaged. Eventually the grinding will get bad enough you will have trouble shifting into reverse, and then start having grinding when shifting into 1st gear too. At least that's what I experienced.

You might be able to buy 6 months if you are a little handy, but making a "shim" out of a fender washer. Take a fender washer and cut a slit in it, wide enough that you can slip it over the internal metal cable of your clutch cable where it goes through the metal arm out of your transmission. Put it on the side toward the front of the car, between the 'ball' end and the metal arm. (You will have to also bend the washer into a semi-circle shape.) This will in effect shorten the cable, because you will have moved the arm about 1/8 inch closer to the firewall. When I did this my grinding disappeared.

But it's a stopgap. 6 months after I did this the cable started to stretch again, A LOT, very quickly, and within one day's commute snapped completely, stranding me and I had to have the car towed.

The REAL solution is to replace your clutch cable NOW before it stretches so far it breaks. If you have a dealer do this, there is an engineering change that will have them put TWO washers in place instead of the ONE washer that was originally stock...somewhat postponing the trouble from occurring again. It's pricey, take a big wallet.

This was a design flaw...it is the only cable operated clutch I am aware of that had NO provisions for adjusting the length of the cable! SAAB eventually realized it was a poor design, and by the time they came out with the 9-3 model they converted to using a hydraulic clutch instead of a cable clutch. (I'm not sure when this change was done...maybe in the 97 model year, but that's a guess on my part.)

good luck,

Paul H.

PS: I was told by the dealer my clutch had more pedal pressure than it should have, which made the problem appear quicker. They said it was due to a part that was not lubricated properly when the clutch had earlier been replaced, and they could fix the problem but it would involve as much labor as a clutch job, so I should have the clutch replaced at the same time. Their estimate was over $2000 to do this work...I sold the car before it became a problem again.

same engine just a production variation code

Going to the local Saab dealer can open good opportunities to save on this variety of automobiles. They are currently at their lowest prices because they are at risk for shutting down after filing for bankuptcy.

There are a couple places on line that have them - the price is nearly $200 - and you need to know a locksmith that can flash a key. The Saabsite can reflash your TWICE unit for $600.

sin cara is much stronger because of his flexibility and movement but nevertheless reymysteio has talent more enthusiasm and sin cara gets the whole crowd and entertains the the wwe witch i like and other eople so Sin cara is the Best!

located behind the bumper cover under headlamp assembly

Spyker Cars

Which 900? The Classic 900 (1979-93) or the NG 900 (1993-97)?
There is a known problem with the taillight ground on the C900 4-doors and convertibles. The solution is to add a ground wire from the taillight circuit board's ground to the body. See www.saabnet.com for the fix.

Own both a 2006 Saab 9-3 and a 2006 Volvo S-40... fairly similar sized 4-door sedans. While I do prefer the mildly quieter cabin, smoother transmission, and the reliable power delivery of the Volvo, it is otherwise lacking in comparison to the Saab. The Saab clearly wins in seat comfort, stereo (not even close), leg and foot room (my 5' tall, 100 lb wife even finds the Volvo cramped in the leg/foot well... and at 5'11", I find it quite aggravating), steering wheel comfort, instrument panel, gas mileage (about a 7 mile per gallon improvement in the Saab over the Volvo, which is magnified by the Saab also having about a 4 gallon bigger tank), sporty overall driving experience, price (not by much, but every bit counts), etc, etc. And perhaps it's just me, but "big shoulder and thin console" the Volvo design all you want, and it is still rather staid compared to the "born from jets" sexier, quirkier image of the Saab. We have a new baby on the way, so just awaiting the production of the 2009 (I hope) Saab 9-4 CUV, so we can trade in the Volvo for it. Then trade in the the Saab 9-3 for a 2010 Saab 9-1... OK, maybe I'm getting ahead of myself. But after previously owning two Saab 9000's, a 900, and a 9-5, guess you can see that I simply love them.

Hold down the "band" button until it prompts you for the security code again. If you have entered in the code incorrectly too many times in a row, you will have to wait for an hour and try again.

Yes, they are brothers. Rey Mysterio's real name is Oscar Gutierrez. Sin Cara's real name is Luis Urive. But they cousin brothers.

what coolant do you put in a diesel estate saab

It depends on where you buy the used vehicle and how old the vehicle. Many company dealerships will offer some sort of warranty when you buy one of their low Km used vehicles. It usually is a 2 year or 40,000 Km warranty on manufactures defects. If you are buying from just a used car dealership or from someone independently then probably no warranty.

The handful of new ones they're putting out are made by National Electric Vehicle Sweden. The ownership of this car company has been all over the map.

Before 1968, the airplane factory Saab AB made the Saab car. In 1968, Saab AB merged with the truck company Scania-Vabis and became "Saab-Scania."

In 1995, this group became three companies:

Saab Automobile AB became majorly owned by General Motors.

The airplane factory became the Saab Group...this company has become one of the biggest defense contractors in the world.

Scania AB makes trucks and buses.

I believe all cars sold in the US of model year 1996 and newer require OBDII. (I'm not positive of this.)

I used to own a 1995 Saab 900SE turbo convertable, and still own a 1995 Lincoln Town Car. In CA both of these cost me extra with biannual smog checks because they were OBDI...which meant they do not monitor gas tank fuel recovery, and extra steps are needed to verify the vapor recovery system on each still works, to the tune of an extra $25 above regular smog check prices.

My newer cars ('98 Chevy S10 pickup, '02 Ford Explorer) are both OBDII, do NOT cost me extra on smog checks, and I can use relatively cheap OBDII diagnostic meters to extract and reset "check engine" codes.

From that I'm pretty sure yours is also OBDII. If so, there should be a diagnostic port (looks like a computer cable socket) below the steering column, or a label there saying just where the OBDII connector IS located. (That's an OBDII requirement, standardization not only of the connector and codes, but also where the connector is located.)

Hope that helps, Paul.

The cost to repair your 1989 Saab manual transmission is dependent upon the extent of the repairs. It will cost approximately $600 to completely rebuilt your transmission.