Saab

Open the hood of the car. Locate the cylinder block and check on its left-hand front face. The engine number should be there.

If you have the "old" type of 9-3 (1998-2002) the relay is located under the dash board by the left front seat foot area. You'll have to remove some kickerpanels to get to it. I'm not sure, but I believe the one you're looking for is labeled 517 (K517?), and is at the middle bottom of the "relay central" panel. Good luck, lad!

If you have a 1995-2000, remove the serpentine belt if a 2.2L, disconnect the lines from the pump (one should be clipped, the other has a screw fitting), remove the mounting bolts then remove the pump. If you have a 2.2L, then you will also have to remove the pulley so you can use it on the new pump. For this you will need pulley removal and installation tools whish you should be able to acquire through your local parts store. Now you are going to reverse the process: if 2.2L, install the pulley onto the new pump, mount the power steering pump back onto the car. You should torque the mounting bolts to 22-25 ft.lbs (30-34 Nm). Next, reconnect the lines to the pump, with the high pressure line being torqued to 20 ft.lbs (27 Nm). If you have a 2.2L, reinstall the serpentine belt. You should now fill the pump to "full cold" level, then, hopefully with the help of a friend so you don't have to walk back and forth, rotate the steering wheel to lock about 20 or so times (helps if you have the front end suspended). Continue to fill the reservoir until it stays at the "full cold" level. Next, start the car and turn the wheel from lock to lock until no bubbles are produced (if they don't stop, you may have to replace your lines). At this point in time you should have smooth steering. If you do not, you may need to investigate your rack and pinion. -Akumakai

Rough idling is whenever the vehicle's motor "misses" or does not fire causing an imbalance and a loss of rotation reducing the motor's power and causing excessive shaking.

Propably battery not charging - might be bad battery , alternator, or some connection. I had the same problem few days ago, fitted new battery and it is ok now.

some small brands like Spyker and Donkervoort are from the netherlands.

Spyker is owner of Saab to.

and the Daf trucks are dutch to.

There are two ways you can do this. You can remove the black strip that runs in the center of the bumper by just "popping it out" (which is what I did) by putting a towel on the paint finish to not scratch it and used a screwdriver to pop it out.

Or you can push the actual lens cover back towards the tire and it would just pop right out. It took me less that 5 minutes to replace. To me, the safest way was removing the black strip.

Good Luck!

U.S. ratings:
2.0L 8-valve = 110 HP
2.0L 16-valve = 135 HP
2.0L 16V turbo = 165 HP

The bluebook value for a 2010 Saab would vary depending on the condition, rims, and everything. In order to find out what someone would have to out their information in the kelly bluebook website to find the about price of it.

You have to go to your local Saab dealer to get a new key. Unfortunately that cost a lot of money !

Saabs always rank among the safest cars in the IIHS Crash Test Results.

http://www.iihs.org/ratings/

Folksam insurance calls Saabs "The Safest Cars in Sweden."

http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2006/03/01/hmn_feature24.html

Well, it depends on what you mean by saying the 'gears grind in reverse'...If the noise is while you are trying to shift INTO reverse, and if your Saab is around the 1995 vintage, then it is a common problem caused by the stretching of the non-adjustable clutch linkage cable:

The 1995 Saab (and maybe a year either side of it) used a cable from your clutch pedal to the clutch arm off the transmission. As it gets older it stretches. Reverse is the gear that will start grinding first as the cable stretches and the clutch is not actually being fully dis-engaged. Eventually the grinding will get bad enough you will have trouble shifting into reverse, and then start having grinding when shifting into 1st gear too. At least that's what I experienced.

You might be able to buy 6 months if you are a little handy, but making a "shim" out of a fender washer. Take a fender washer and cut a slit in it, wide enough that you can slip it over the internal metal cable of your clutch cable where it goes through the metal arm out of your transmission. Put it on the side toward the front of the car, between the 'ball' end and the metal arm. (You will have to also bend the washer into a semi-circle shape.) This will in effect shorten the cable, because you will have moved the arm about 1/8 inch closer to the firewall. When I did this my grinding disappeared.

But it's a stopgap. 6 months after I did this the cable started to stretch again, A LOT, very quickly, and within one day's commute snapped completely, stranding me and I had to have the car towed.

The REAL solution is to replace your clutch cable NOW before it stretches so far it breaks. If you have a dealer do this, there is an engineering change that will have them put TWO washers in place instead of the ONE washer that was originally stock...somewhat postponing the trouble from occurring again. It's pricey, take a big wallet.

This was a design flaw...it is the only cable operated clutch I am aware of that had NO provisions for adjusting the length of the cable! SAAB eventually realized it was a poor design, and by the time they came out with the 9-3 model they converted to using a hydraulic clutch instead of a cable clutch. (I'm not sure when this change was done...maybe in the 97 model year, but that's a guess on my part.)

good luck,

Paul H.

PS: I was told by the dealer my clutch had more pedal pressure than it should have, which made the problem appear quicker. They said it was due to a part that was not lubricated properly when the clutch had earlier been replaced, and they could fix the problem but it would involve as much labor as a clutch job, so I should have the clutch replaced at the same time. Their estimate was over $2000 to do this work...I sold the car before it became a problem again.

same engine just a production variation code

Going to the local Saab dealer can open good opportunities to save on this variety of automobiles. They are currently at their lowest prices because they are at risk for shutting down after filing for bankuptcy.

There are a couple places on line that have them - the price is nearly $200 - and you need to know a locksmith that can flash a key. The Saabsite can reflash your TWICE unit for $600.

sin cara is much stronger because of his flexibility and movement but nevertheless reymysteio has talent more enthusiasm and sin cara gets the whole crowd and entertains the the wwe witch i like and other eople so Sin cara is the Best!

located behind the bumper cover under headlamp assembly

Spyker Cars

Which 900? The Classic 900 (1979-93) or the NG 900 (1993-97)?
There is a known problem with the taillight ground on the C900 4-doors and convertibles. The solution is to add a ground wire from the taillight circuit board's ground to the body. See www.saabnet.com for the fix.

Own both a 2006 Saab 9-3 and a 2006 Volvo S-40... fairly similar sized 4-door sedans. While I do prefer the mildly quieter cabin, smoother transmission, and the reliable power delivery of the Volvo, it is otherwise lacking in comparison to the Saab. The Saab clearly wins in seat comfort, stereo (not even close), leg and foot room (my 5' tall, 100 lb wife even finds the Volvo cramped in the leg/foot well... and at 5'11", I find it quite aggravating), steering wheel comfort, instrument panel, gas mileage (about a 7 mile per gallon improvement in the Saab over the Volvo, which is magnified by the Saab also having about a 4 gallon bigger tank), sporty overall driving experience, price (not by much, but every bit counts), etc, etc. And perhaps it's just me, but "big shoulder and thin console" the Volvo design all you want, and it is still rather staid compared to the "born from jets" sexier, quirkier image of the Saab. We have a new baby on the way, so just awaiting the production of the 2009 (I hope) Saab 9-4 CUV, so we can trade in the Volvo for it. Then trade in the the Saab 9-3 for a 2010 Saab 9-1... OK, maybe I'm getting ahead of myself. But after previously owning two Saab 9000's, a 900, and a 9-5, guess you can see that I simply love them.

Hold down the "band" button until it prompts you for the security code again. If you have entered in the code incorrectly too many times in a row, you will have to wait for an hour and try again.

Yes, they are brothers. Rey Mysterio's real name is Oscar Gutierrez. Sin Cara's real name is Luis Urive. But they cousin brothers.

what coolant do you put in a diesel estate saab

It depends on where you buy the used vehicle and how old the vehicle. Many company dealerships will offer some sort of warranty when you buy one of their low Km used vehicles. It usually is a 2 year or 40,000 Km warranty on manufactures defects. If you are buying from just a used car dealership or from someone independently then probably no warranty.