Saab

My '97 turbo goes to 230km/h so probably around that mark.

Saab automobiles are manufactured in Germany.

So I completed the r&r of the alternator on my 4 cyl. In past post about alternator r&r in the forum have been unclear due to people responding on the same issue but talking about both the 4 cyl and the v6. Anyway this is how I believe from experience, is the easiest way to r&r the alternator. It really is a PITA but I think the next time I do it will be easy.

1. Pry tensioner pulley and instert Allen wrench to hold the tensionor in place while you pry it. I think i used a 3mm key. Slip/pry the belt off of the tensioner pulley and the alternator.

2. Remove the tensioner by removing the bolt in the center of the tensioner. I used an 8mm Allen. It is kind of difficult to remove all of the bolts on the front of this motor. It really helped to cut an 8mm Allen wrench with a dremel to the right size. I cut a spare Allen to about 2-2.5 inches. I then was able to remove the belt quicker with my fingers and the Allen. Occasionally I had to use an 8mm wrench directly on the shortened Allen.

3. Next detach the line that runs to the power steering pump. This line seemed to be in the way once I had detached the alternator. This would be the best time to do this. the line is attached to the frame with clips. I unbolted two clips. One was below the alternator on the frame and the other was closde to the crank pulley. you might have to disconnect this line ion other places to make it easier to remove the alternator. I am guessing it will differ on different examples.

4. Unbolt the Alternator from the block. The upper bolt will be revealed once you have removed the tensioner. again, once I loosened the bolt it was much easier to use the shortened Allen and my fingers to completely remove the bolt. Next remove the lower bolt theough the wheel well.

5. Remove the back cover on the alternator. Remove the three small scres then pull the cover off by using the release tabs on it. I think there were two tabs that I either had to press or oull to remove the cover. This was easiest when you aim the back of the altermator up and remove the cover from above.

6. Unbolt catalytic exhaust from the motor. I had to do this since it was in the way. It is only three 13mm bolts. Mione werent tight like exhaust bolts usually are. Anyway, after removing the 3 bolts (I did two from above then 1 from below) i was able to pull the cat down a little to get it out of the way. Once unbloted you can drop the cat even further if necessary if you unhook the exhaust hangers behind the cat.

7. Remove bolts from front and side motor mounts. The first mount is on the top front of the motor. The second mount in on the firewall side of the motor and about in the middle of the motor. This mount is down below the top of the motor. I had to use a seires of extensions and a wobble to remove this bolt.

8. Pry motor forward. I used the curved end of a pry bar. I will add pictures to make this clearer. I placed the pry bar on the side of the mount closest to the front and pry the motor towards the front of the car. Once I pulled it as far as I could without the pry bar slipping off, I was able to wedge the right sized deep socket into the mount to hold it in place. Once wedged I replaced the pry bar and pulled the motor even more and insterted a larger socket to hold it in place after I moved it more. You might be able to do this in one pry. It took two for me.

9. Move alternator down to the driveline. At this point you need to either move the alternator from above or below. I had to do a little of each. Onjce it is on the driveline you are ready for the next step.

10. Remove alternator from below. With the power steering line and the cat out of the way you should be able to remove the motor with one last pry. While under the car I was able to put the pry bar between the motor and frame. The best place I found was at the right side of the motor (firewall side) and the frame. I then pulled the motor again towards the front of the car with the pry bar. Once I oulled with one hand I was able to pull the alternator out. Keep pulling it is a tight fit. Oh ya, and don't be laying right under the alternator because it will hurt when you pull the 11 pound beast on to your face. Just a note. When prying below, if you are unsuccessful at your first attempt at pulling out the alternator, you might have to go back above and replace your wedge (socket in my case. you can use whatever fits).

Please contact me if you have any questions. I am happy to help.

DONT USE THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE V6!!!

I will add pics when I am able.

If you take your key an press firmly on the Saab emblem while at the same time pull on the very top of the key, the metal key will pull out an u can unlock the doors or truck if need, the car will start with a dead battery in the remote key

it is under the car,near the diesel tank

I doubt it changed much from my 95 ... in which case you unlatch two latches at the top of your windshield, then press a toggle switch located on the panel between your front seats.

It will lift the back of the top up slightly, enough to give clearance for the panel across the back of the car behind the rear seats to lift up, then the top will auto-retract into it's storage space, and finally the panel that lifted up closes again, therefore concealing the retracted top.

Raising works in reverse with the same toggle switch pushed in the opposite direction. The rear cover opens, the roof moves until it gets to the top of the windshield frame, the rear of the top lifts up so the rear panel can close, and then the rear of the top goes down tight against the closed cover. Last thing is for you to manually latch the two latches at the top of the windshield.

It goes quickly...I often would open (or close) the top during the time I was stopped at a traffic light, and in every case the operation was finished before the light turned green.

Paul

You can find used Saab cars on Yahoo! auto section. Make sure you select used cars and search for Saab. From there, you can choose the price range, body style, and model year.

if while driving you need wheel alignment an/or wheel balancing. if it s just while idling it can be a few things like worn motor mounts clogged fuel injectors causing low or ramping rpms

Saab 9-3 years 2001 2003 and prob others should ONLY run on fully synthentic oil. Theres a design problem that causes sludge and any other oils only contribute to the sludge.

STEP 1 Drain the fluid from the pump. Connect a length of hose to the return pipe and place the other end in a bottle or similar receptacle that holds at least one liter. Start the engine and allow the hydraulic fluid to be pumped out of the steering gear. Turn the steering wheel from full lock to full lock. Switch off the engine when no more fluid runs out into the bottle. Don't allow the pump to run dry. STEP 2 Remove the hose and reconnect the return hose STEP 3 Remove the air cleaner STEP 4 Remove the belt and pump pulley STEP 5 Remove the flow pipe STEP 6 Remove the Suction pipe STEP 7 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the pump STEP 8 Refit in reverse

There are several Saab specific aftermarket suppliers online. Saab does license the use of their logo to Lloyd Mats for putting on carpet mats. There are a number of carpet materials that are used in these custom fit floor mats, floor liners and cargo liners.

If the trunk lid isn't actually ajar, the switch has gone out of alignment, or it broke.

Front of the engine right behind the radiator.

If you can't get into the trunk for some reason this is what you need to do:

Do Not Smash a Tail-light ass'y, as thieves are known to do. They don't care.

1/ remove the left hand number plate light, (as viewed from the rear) 2x #10 Torx screws (you will probably need a 1/4 drive ratchet, as there is no room for a standard length driver)

2/ Look up from below through the number plate light aperture, you may need a torch to see two plates. One is slotted- leave him alone he's not the release catch.

3/ the plate above this needs to be pushed gently toward the passenger compartment until the boot springs open. It needs to move 25 - 30 mm

It depends on how many tools you have.

The gasket set costs $60 for an inline 4-cylinder; not sure about the price for the V-6 set because my supplier is out of them. I would also change a few other parts while you've got the engine out anyway - timing chain, guides and tensioner, spark plugs, water pump and crankshaft front main seal at the minimum, and I would really think hard about changing all the belts, the clutch and the oil pump too. And you're gonna have to pull the engine because it's exceptionally hard to get the timing cover off if you don't. So...$300 to $500 worth of assorted parts. Plus, you need to take the head to a mechanic and have it honed so it's good and flat.

Now for the fun part: Do you have the tools and expertise to remove the engine from a Saab and do all the work you need to? If not, figure on this being at minimum a $1000 job.

Trained tech with all the right tools and skills?...It is booked at .6 hours non warranty.

Average Joe less then a hour, but make sure you don't run the pump empty for any period of time. I recommend placing a small amount of fluid in it and rotating the pump by hand if possible a couple times before you re install pump.

~Oh and power steering issues are its always messy so be prepared with some cardboard and cat liter.

The speakers in a 2004 Saab 9-3 sedan with 13 speakers measure: 3 1/2 inches in the dash, 5 1/4 inches in the rear deck, as well as 6 x 9 inches in the rear deck, and 6 3/4 inches in the front door. The car also came in models with 4 speakers and 7 speakers.

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I dont have an answer for you but, if your Saab has a modulator valve that may need to be replaced. I have an old Ford and I had to replace one around a month ago.The valve is supposed to tell the transmission the load of the engine so it can change.Another thing you will probably have to get your computer checked if it is a newer model.

Just below the hose attached to the throttle body

how do you replace an alternator on an 1999 Saab 9-3

located under drivers side kick panel left of steering column.. panel needs to removed to access relay.. 3 relays are the same p/n

Buy a new ignition lock cylinder with new keys or see a SAAB dealer. You'll need the VIN code.