Saab

Have you opened the large oil filler cap at the top of the engine? Although I don't know about a 9 3, on my '95 turbo 900s that's where it was...built into the cap.

Saab was created in 1937.

it cost me almost $500 us to do a 1997 900se turbo and a weeks worth of my time.

===

Another answer:

I too had a 1995 Saab 900SE:

I didn't want to tackle that big a job, even though I have replaced many clutches on traditional front engine rear drive cars, and a few front wheel drive cars, like an old VW Rabbit. I could tell the limited clearences would make this a very tough job. So I got a quote from a Saab dealership, as I couldn't find any independent shops that knew anything about Saabs (and didn't want to pay for them to start learning by working on my car.)

The dealer estimated the job at $2000...and shifting was getting harder and my clutch cable was stretching again...The dealer said the previous clutch replacement probably missed a critical lube point, and that my Saab had heavier clutch action than it should have, which is why my clutch cable was stretching.

Having already had a couple $1000+ dealer repairs, although I LOVED the car, I sold it before the need to redo the clutch became critical. I still miss the car, it was great looking and lots of fun to drive. (Note mine was a convertible, and although I had no top troubles I had read of even more expensive repairs if and when the top malfunctioned...another factor in my selling it before it needed repairs that totaled the value of the car...)

becuase it is so fast (not)

most are 16 gallons

To fix a rear power window on a 1999 Saab, the door panel will have to be removed to gain access to the power window motor. If the window is not working properly, it is either the motor or the cable.

I have a 1998 Saab 900 se and i brought a vacum pump from my local car shop(£20.00)and syphoned the oil from the dip stick tube,it was really easy,then changed the oil filter and refilled with semi-synthetic 10-40wit took about 30 mins to do.

Any one can do it this way and saves you trying to get that nasty little oil sump drain bolt off from underneath/back of the sump(if your reading this chances are you tried and rounded the bolt).

Try the vacum method above,you won't be dissapointed.

Very simply get a thin punch or nailset, tap lightly on the pins. They will come partially out the other side. Then pull them out with any decent plier. A little of WD or blaster makes it quicker. Then clean with brake cleaner and reset. Saabs forever. P.S. Is there a wing accessory package so ours too will fly? VVVVVVVVVVrooooooooooooooooommmmmm!

if you use incorrect oil , type weight , and insufficient oil changes , and time. approx 200k on a turbo is a long time ,

Look at the outer CV boot. If it is torn, dirt and water have already gotten into the the CV joint and it will most likely need to be replaced. The indication that a CV joint is going bad is that it will click-click-click-click when making a turn. Generally the left side will make the noise in a right hand turn and vice-versa. -- Wink

Bad news: You don't. I have a 95 Saab 900 and it too has a clutch cable...they do not have any adjustment. Eventually it stretches to the point you cannot completely disengage the clutch and it will grind into gears, and be hard to shift into reverse.

There are aftermarket clutch cables you can buy that have an adjustment feature buit into them. SAAB has a technical advisory, so when they put replacement cables in they "double washer" it so the cable can stretch more before you have trouble.

I had good luck extending the life of my stretched clutch cable by taking a fender washer (about 1" diameter w/ 1/8" center hole) and using it to shim where the end of the clutch cable contacts the clutch arm coming out of the transaxle.

Take the washer and use a hacksaw to cut a slot from the other edge to the center hole, so you can slip it over the cable without taking the cable out. Also bend the washer so it is curved to roughly match the bend in the clutch arm. Have someone push in your clutch cable, then push on the arm while they release the clutch pedal so you can get some slack between the clutch arm and the ball at the end of the cable. Slip the fender washer between the clutch arm and the ball-end. When you release everything the pressure of the clutch arm will hold it firmly in place, and you will have shortened the 'effective' length of the cable about 1/16", the width of the washer.

That worked about perfectly for me! BUT, 6 months later the cable started to stretch again and ultimately broke. So this type repair should be considered just temporary, and if you feel it stretching AGAIN get to a shop PRONTO or you'll end up stranded on the road.

Hope this helps, Paul. prhkgh@comcast.net

...Here is another method.

,, You will note ( with the battery removed) that once you have levered the stretched cable end off the transaxle clutch throw out arm assy, the aluminum end cap on the stretched clutch cable, can be held whilst you slide the white nylon guide assembly back a few mils.

This will allow you to shim the flat surface with a plastic washer or shim, again, cutting a small groove into your shim prior to placing it between the aluminum end piece and rubber cushion washer SAAB have already installed on their non adjustable cable. ,,A breaker bar or 2 ft length of small diameter water pipe or even a length of broom stick handle can be used to lever the clutch arm in far enough to fit the newly revised and shimmed cable back into place. This method is easier and more desirable from a wear perspective, simply because you are allowing the original ''nylon assy to lever profile'' to continue mating without any increased wear caused by bending a washer in an attempt to match original profile.

( I just did this for my next door neighbour and he was very happy ! )

A new cable is not expensive, but you need to be a petite contortionist to fit em

,,As a rule of thumb, 2mm minimum to 5 mm maximum should be all the shimming you need,,, cheers darylwjames@gmail.com

I reset the code after a dead battery and it was the wrong code, how can I reset it and /or find the corrrect code

Elie

The rear bumper on a Fiat Panda is removed by taking out the retaining bolts and removing it from its bracket. The wiring harness can then be disconnected and the bumper lowered from the vehicle.

look to rear of engine u will see a square peg a 1/2 inch bar is required pulled towards the front of the engine and a 3mm pin put into the eyelets that align as you pull it forwards *note get the updated belt that misses out the centre idler pulley as they fail regularly

As i have found the only way is to take it to a dealership who have the saab kit to do it. Someone said you can do it through your ignition, not so. I paid £45 to have 2 new fobs programmed to my Saab. Which i think is value for money. Pentagon Vauxhall in Middleton. Plus you get a warranty, and good service from the staff.

JohnThe Dog.

The SAAB will have an oil sump, specifically the oil pan collection for the engine oil and the fuel sump, the collection area for the fuel pump to pull from.

My 97 Saab was sluggish and after checking all the obvious areas, turned out I needed to replace the accelerator cable (have over 230,000 miles). Part was about $90 and labor was about $70.

U.S. model year 1994

in 1989, GM bought 50% of Saab and the rest of in in 2000. It was a miserable experience for all concerned. Saab was technologically advanced but durability challenged. GM bought it about the same time Ford bought Volvo.

Disconnect the battery before proceeding. Fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. To access, remove the floor from the cargo compartment. There will be two access ports under the rubber cover. The larger one is the pump, the smaller is the fuel level sender. You will notice a small hole used to thread a flexible socket onto the clamp. Once loosened, disconnect electrical and banjo fitting, pump assembly lifts out. The pump assembly is actually two fuel pumps. The smaller sump feeds fuel into the bucket. The main pressure pump then feeds to the engine. Make you you note how the entire assembly is aligned and note the relative height. Make the housings before taking apart. Usually, the smaller (and cheaper) sump pump fails. There will also be a screen that needs cleaning or replacement.

Sale listings for a Saab 9000 can be found online from many different car sale listing websites. Some examples of these sites include Auto Trader and Cars For Sale.

1 OPEN HOOD. 2 OPEN FUSEBOX (IT'S OVER TO THE RIGHT AND CLOSE TO THE FIREWALL) 3 PULL FUSE FOR CAR ALARM. (IT'S THE ONE FURTHEST FROM THE DRIVER'S SEAT, ALL THE WAY TO THE LEFT, ON THE BOTTOM ROW) PS THIS ALSO DISABLES YOUR A/C :-( BUT AT LEAST YOUR ALARM ISN'T WAKING ANYONE UP.

the cost is : £500.000

The fuel pump is located in the top of the fuel tank. It is accessed by removing the floor of the trunk, a couple of plywood boards covered with thin carpet. There is a large disc which covers the fuel pump, with a rubber gasket/grommet surrounding it. This is easily removed with the blade of a screwdriver or other simple lever. Disconnect the battery. Remove the wires from the pump and the fuel line fitting on top of the pump. There is a large hose clamp that secures the pump to the tank, which is removed with a 7mm socket. I prefer a deep-well socket with a universal joint and an extension to the ratchet wrench. Once the clamp is loose, you should be able to lift the pump out of the hole. The pump is in a bucket with a screen/filter on the bottom. There are actually two pumps: a small low-pressure feed pump that keeps the bucket full, and the larger Bosch fuel pump that feeds fuel to the engine. The smaller pump is the more likely one to fail. It is also far less expensive than the main pump. When you replace the pump assembly, make sure the wire to the feed pump are plugged in to the connector in the side of the fuel tank.