Saturn Vue

If the Saturn Vue is anything like the Saturn ION, chances are it's the front sway bar bushings. A design flaw caused them to wear out prematurely. This causes a clunking noise when going over bumps.

It is also very possible that it is a front control arm bushing. Start with the sway bar bushings (since they are cheap) then check the control arm bushings.

There is a 1 1/4" black hexagon nut (cap) on the front of the engine, in front of the injectors, right of center when facing the windshield and under the hood. The oil filter is in there, under that screw in cap. Cartridge filter, not a spin on. Look for the big 1 1/4' nut. You'll need an extension and a 1 1/4" socket on an extension to clear the other braces and parafinalia. Easy to do with the proper tool. Don't over tighten it.

It's a rather labor intensive job. Siphon as much fuel out of the tank as you can. Disconnect neg. battery terminal. Jack the rear up so the wheels are at least 6" off the floor. Remove rear drive shaft on AWD models. Be sure to remove the guard above the rear differential. Remove the exhaust system aft of the catalytic converter. Remove the rt. rear wheel to aid in the next two steps. Disconnect the fuel filler hose and vents from tank. Disconnect electrical connection and unclip the connector from the frame. At this point you may want to put your siphon hose into the fuel tank and get what is left out of the rt. side. This is a saddle tank so whatever is in the left side you'll just have to leave. On the left side, remove the fuel line from the front of the fuel filter. Disconnect the electrical connector from the evap canister just fwd of the tank. Disconnect the fuel vapor lines connecting the two. Place a 2x4 across the two saddles with a jack underneath with light pressure. Remove the 4 tank strap bolts. Gently lower the tank and pull it slightly forward. Make sure as you are doing this that nothing is hanging up. Slide the tank from beneath the car. The primary pump is on the right side. At this point clean the top of the tank with a hose and compressed air. Disconnect the electrical connector and the 2 fuel lines from the pump assy. Use a brass drift to tap the lock ring ccw to loosen. Carefully pull the assy. out of the tank. Of course, installation is the reverse. Lubricate the new o-ring. Check the wiring harness and connector to the pump for integrity. Replace the fuel filter. Use anti seize on all bolts....you never know when you'll have to do it again. Remove all the fuel from the tank while you have it sitting in the open.

My Saturn was doing the same thing, shop said it needed throttle body 900.00. I changed the throttle body gasket , problem was solved, and I did it myself, cost me about 30.00

Altenator is located on the back bottom side if the engine below the power steering pump. To remove it you will need to take of the front passenger wheel and remove the splash shields. Two bolts hold it on. It will take some twisting, bi=ut that is the way the factory manual tells you to take it out.

Most any code reader that plugs into diagnostic port can reset

It is behind a removable panel located in the passengers left leg kick panel.

I just replaced the wheel bearing on the rear passenger side of my 2002 Saturn View-
Here's the sequence I followed and it worked quite well...although it is a pain to do.

1. Before jacking up the car, break the lug nuts loose, so they are easier to take off once the tire is off the ground.

2. Remove the wheel /tire from the car.

3. using a breaker bar and socket, remove the nut and washer from the axle that secures the brake drum to the hub.

4. The fun part....trying to get the freaking brake drum off. Took me the better part of an hour, using a rubber mallet and several prying tools between the backer plate and the brake drum. By the way...make sure the parking brake is off! The problem is that the brake shoes "wear in" and there is a lip created on the edge of the brake drum making it difficult to remove.

5. Remove the 4 13mm bolts that hold the hub/bearing assembly . These are located on the back side of the wheel located adjacent to where the axle connects to the wheel.

6. Unplug the anti lock brake sensor from it's clip connection and loosed the rubber grommet so it can pull through when you do get the wheel hub/bearing assembly out.

7. Go to Advance Auto parts and rent a wheel/hub puller kit. My local store had me pay for it and will refund the complete price when I bring it back. Nice of them! Of course, I did buy all my parts there.

8. Use the hub puller per the directions in the case to separate the axle from the hub. No amount of beating on it or prying on it will work to get it off, as it is a factory pressed assembly. As I tightened the hub puller it suddenly "Popped" and as the axle spline separated from the hub assembly. The backer plate holding the brake shoes came off as well. Not a problem just a surprise. In retrospect, the 4 bolts that hold the hub assembly also hold the brake backer plate in place.

9. Before replacing with a new hub, clean out the raceway in the cast portion that receives the bearing. I cleaned it with a small wire plumbing fitting brush and also a small round file. Be careful not to hit the CV joint boot while you are doing this.

10. When reassembling the hub/wheel assembly, I put the 4 - 13 mm bolts through to hold the brake backer plate in place, which makes putting the new hub/bearing assembly possible with 2 hands instead of 4. As you start to put the new hub on, fish the anti lock sensor wire through the hole or you wont' be able to get it through later.

11. CAREFULLY, guide the axle through the center of the new hub/bearing. Gently work the hub onto the axle, and you'll feel the splines on the axle slide into the grooves on the hub assembly. Now for the fun part.....lining up and starting the 4-13mm bolts from the backside of the wheel and thread it into the hub assembly. Make sure they are TIGHT. The threaded part of the axle should be an inch to an inch and a half past the base of the center of the new hub as you look at it straight on (as long as your spline lined up correctly).

12. Actually, this step should be right after number 9. There is an brake adjustment mechanism on the top of the brake shoes. It has a clip and a little "star" wheel for brake adjustment. If you hold the clip out with a small screwdriver and use another one to turn the star wheel, you can adjust the brake shoes in, making it much easier to put the brake drum back on.

13. Reinstall the brake drum over the studs of the new hub. Tighten the washer/nut on the threaded axle to hold the axle in place in the center of the hub. I think it has to be torqued to 100 ft pounds with a torque wrench. Any tighter can damage the new bearing assembly. Check with a Saturn Dealer or your favorite mechanic for this spec.

14. You're pretty much done once you put the wheel back on.

Hope this helped!

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I believe they are internal. Yet again, leave it to gm. The black hose shaped like an L connecting the black air filter assembly to the engin block serves the engine ventalation purpose. I think. I had mine off, the suction going into the engine block is really low for some reason. Make sure you get the right one, the one next to it contains coolant and can burn you. If it connects to the air filter, you found it. For kicks and giggles, I have sprayed mine out with carb cleaner. seems fine but still barely any suction.

Unless you specifically ordered the engine block heater option when you bough the car, it will not have a heater cord. If you did buy the option, the cord is located under the battery on the righthand side when facing the windshield. Unless you specifically ordered the engine block heater option when you bough the car, it will not have a heater cord. If you did buy the option, the cord is located under the battery on the righthand side when facing the windshield.

It is important to maintain the fluid levels of a vehicle. A person adds power steering fluid for this car into the power steering reservoir under the hood under the lid labeled power steering.

In the 2006 Saturn Vue, the oil dipstick is in the left corner of the engine. It is the yellow plastic pull ring.

there's 4 ho2 sensors total 2 of them are on the front of the engine and the other 2 are on the back of the engine

There is no dipstick on the auto transmission for L200, there is an inspection plug. located near the out put shaft going to the passenger side.

The car has to be on a level surface (very important), remove the plug if the trans fluid dribbles out you have enough. it is not designed for everyday checks. Saturns view is that you only need to check the fluid if you suspect a leak (evidence of fluid on the ground). If you aren't seeing any then it is probably OK. If you are concerned I would have a garage check it for you, it's not an easy task without a lift. I hope this answers your question.

Most modern automatic transmissions do not have a "drain plug". You're supposed to pull the pan, remove and replace the filter, then replace the pan and gasket.

BTW, watch out, there may not be a dipstick/fill tube on your vehicle. Many of the newer transmissions use a side plug that you remove to fill the fluid and check the fluid level...

But make sure you know which plug to pull; if you get the wrong one, who knows what might happen.

This engine does not have your typical screw on style filter. It is just a cartridge. If you look on the drivers side of the intake manifold you will see a black cap with a big hex on the top of it. That is where the filter is. Remove that cap and replace the filter. This is for the oil filter!!!!!!

It is NOT the same as a 4cyl. I had to remove the air filter box and the right-side engine mount in order to replace this belt

4.75qt of oil 5w20

If you have the owners manual to the vehicle, it will tell you exactly what to put. Also if you open the hood to the engine compartment, you should find the recommended oil type on the motor where you put oil or it should be stamped somewhere in the engine compartment.

Check your owner's manual first in case yours is different for some reason.

Open the hood.

Remove the bolt holding in the yellow light (side marker) housing. I did not have to completely remove the side marker housing, but it had to loose enough to allow the headlamp housing to come out.

Remove the two bolts securing the headlamp housing to the chassis.

Here's the part that isn't obvious:

Behind the headlamp housing there is a squarish opening in the chassis. Insert a flat blade screwdriver through the opening. Make sure the screwdriver fits through the opening in the headlamp bracket lower arm. It's kind of hard to see, but if you wiggle the housing, you'll see where the lower arm connects to a bracket on the chassis.

Push the locking tab toward the rear of the vehicle with the screwdriver to lift the headlamp bracket lower arm.

Lift up the housing. You will have to wiggle it a little to get the housing out from behind the side marker housing.

Once it's out you have plenty of room to get to the wiring assembly and bulb.

Detach the wiring assembly, rotate the bulb counter clockwise and it should come right out.

Reverse the process with the new bulb.

at the bottom of the coolant reservoir tank.

The wheel balance was not done properly, or there may be a bad tire.

to the right of the brake