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Serpentine Belts
A serpentine belt is a single, continuous belt utilized in driving devices – such as power steering pump, alternator and others – in an automotive engine. First used by Mercedes-Benz, the belt is more efficient than the older multiple belt system.
500 Questions
What does a pulley do for car?
Asked by Wiki User
The purpose of a pulley is that it can lift heavier things at a quicker pace. Some examples of a pulley is a ski lift and alot of roller coasters have them also.
I hope i have helped at least a little bit!!! (:
Where can one purchase a Coach belt?
Asked by Wiki User
One can purchase a Coach belt from a Coach store or one can order one from the Coach website. One can also purchase one from eBay for a discounted price. Macy's also sells Coach belts.
How do you replace the belt on a sears model 315.11751 belt sander?
Asked by Wiki User
push the front roller against a workbench this locks so you can remove belt.then take a pair of needle nose vise grips and lock on to the black steel bar near the end of it.put the new belt on.push the front roller against the workbench again and pull on the vise grips as you release pressure from against the front roller. this will unlock and spring out the front roller. might take a couple tries. good luck.poor belt change design.
Astro van belts problems?
Asked by Wiki User
1991 Chevy Astor Van 6cyl the pulley below alternator isn't moving can I bypass it or is ity important. Joezilla
How do you replace serpentine belts on 1999 infiniti g20?
Asked by Wiki User
You must first do the power steering pulley to release tension. It's the pulley close to the fire wall. To release tension you need to jack the right side of the car up. Take the covers off by the right wheel. Power steering pulley will have three bolts to undo 1 is on the bottom in back of the pulley other 2 you can get on top. Just look really close to the pulley and you will see the grove where the pulley can move. None of the bolts need to come all the way out. The long bolt on top is what you use to make the belt tight.
The second belt is easy to change. You can do everything on top. Adjust 2 bolts at the alternator. One is long that's to make the belt tight one is small to adjust it and your on your way. If you have problems with the first pulley stop and take a look at the second one and it will give you a good idle. It looks like the first one but smaller.
Diagram serpentine belt 1988 ford truck?
Asked by Wiki User
It should show in the book that came with the truck.
How do you loosen a tensioner on a 95 aerostar?
Asked by Wiki User
With a socket wrench-place it over the nut that holds in the
tensioner and slowly pusn to the left to loosen
What is the difference between made into and made from?
Asked by Wiki User
If X is made into Y, then it means that you started with X and ended up with Y.
"I made the stone into statue."
If X is made from Y, then it means that you started with Y and ended up with X.
"I made the statue from stone."
Diagram for serpentine belt for 2001 Oldsmobile intrigue?
Asked by Wiki User
Just look at your old belt, and draw your own diagram on a peice of paper.
How do you replace 1.3 rocam powersteering belt?
Asked by Wiki User
Take a 15 spanner, and put it on the tensioner, (the one in the middle) turn it towards yourself, it will loosen the belt and remove old one from the the pulleys, note the way belt goes and replace with new belt the same way, put on spanner, turn pulley towards yourself, and loop over the power steering pulley. done
When your AC is turned on it makes a really irritating squealing noise. What could it be?
Asked by Wiki User
it sounds like the compressor drive belt is loose under the hood.or the noise may be the blower motor{blower that pushes air into your car} rule blower motor out by using fan in heat mode. Or maybe a bearing in the clutch has gone out.
How do you replace the serpentine belt on a Pontiac Grand Am?
Asked by Wiki User
Ok, here goes. First, buy, rent, or pay the deposit on the parts store's loaner long-handled serpentine belt tool. It has skinny sockets that you will need to replace the tensioner. Bite the bullet and get the tool. Also--bite another bullet and buy the tensioner when you buy the belt. Get the best quality belt and tensioner you can get: this is NO time or place to go cheap.
If your serpentine belt BROKE, you likely have a greater problem than a worn belt. Before going to the parts store, check to see if the water pump or AC compressor is frozen up. Buy parts accordingly. The forces involved in breaking the belt will also tear the pulley on the tensioner to pieces. Just go ahead and replace the tensioner pre-emptively. That's why you bought it when you bought the belt, so do it now.
Now, grit your teeth and accept the fact that you have to remove all the moter mount stuff. You'll have to support the engine (with a jack on a 2x4 to spread the weight) from underneath. You'll remove the 3 nuts (don't lose the blind bolt under the 3rd nut) on the top of the black stamped steel bracket, the two bolts in the passenger side fender well that hold the bottom of the 2nd stamped steel bracket, the two bolts holding the heavy duty silver bracket, and the three bolts holding the heavy black cast bracket to the underside of the heavy silver bracket.
You will find that getting the 3/8" drive of a ratchet into the slight space offered by GM at the tensioner may be impossible. However, there is a 19mm flat-sided boss on the tensioner facing the front of the car. You can get a 19mm open end wrench, or a Crescent wrench, onto that boss and lift forcefully to turn the tensioner. Turn counterclockwise, as viewed from the passenger side, to loosen the belt. I would still opt to get the serpentine installation tool set from the parts store. (I also went ahead and made a 3/8" tool with more offset than the store-bought one. If you have welding capability, it's worth it to have the home-made tool.)
Since you have removed all the motor mount stuff removed already, this is the time to remove and replace the tensioner. Just do it. A good new one (a Dayco brand tensioner) is about 50 bucks at a parts store. By now you'd pay three times that not ot have to do this job again. So just do it. Considering the work you are going through to do all this on your day off, replacing the tensioner as a preventative measure is well worth it. You need skinny hands to get the bolt started, but it can be done without too much grief. Put some Never-Seize on the bolt threads before installation. Note that you have to engage the pin on the tensioner into the hole in the engine timing gear cover before tightening down the bolt. Use the NEW BOLT that will come with the tensioner: it's different than GM's.
You already have removed the black stamped steel brackets that were attached to the fender, right? And you have also removed the heavy silver one that has the three big bolts (15 mm heads, two toward the back and one toward the front) and one empty hole at the front of the silver piece. You have replaced the tensioner because you do not want to go through this again next Spring. To install the new belt, you must LOOSEN the three bolts on the heavy and thick black cast and forged bracket that is attached to the engine. They are low and toward the front. This heavy forged thick bracket was attached to the thick silver piece with the three heavy bolts, and it is the black piece that prevents you from simply installing the belt around the power steering pump pulley. (BTW, removng the power steering pump won't help you--you have to get the belt around the black bracket.) By LOOSENING the three bolts in the heavy black bracket, you can just barely cause a gap at the rearmost heavy bolt location between the stamped steel engine mount boss and the heavy black bracket that will just barely allow you to slip in the belt. You may need to do a little gentle levering, but don't break anything. Note that I said LOOSEN--if you remove the three bolts you'll have coolant all over the place. Even so, you may have to remove the upper one completely to get enough of a gap at the rear for the belt to go through.
Once the belt is "through the loop" of the heavy black bracket, be sure you also get it around (over) the power steering pully, under the water pump pulley, and headed down toward the AC pulley. Tighten the three bolts that you just loosened, and thread the belt on to the pulleys. It goes (ribbed side) back around the alternator, down and around the crank pulley (ribbed side), up and around the tensioner (smooth side), down and around the AC pulley (ribbed side), up and around the water pump pulley (smooth side), over the power steering pump pulley (ribbed side) and rearward to the alternator (ribbed side.) Whew! You'll quickly find that it won't voluntarilty go over the alternator pulley unless you relieve the tensioner. Use the tool you rented or bought or made to relieve the tensioner (see above), slip the belt over the alternator pulley (ribbed side), and then ease up on your death grip on the tensioner tool to allow the belt to tighten itself.
CHECK ALL THE PULLEYS to be SURE the ribbed surface is centered on each ribbed pulley!! Misalignment will break the belt in a hurry, and then you can do this delightful task all over again.
Ok, that was all easy. You started at 10:00 thismorning and now it's 8:30 tonight. Now it's time to reassemble this beast. Whether today or tomorrow is up to you.
You will find that dealing with the motor mount pieces is a challenge, especially in re-assembly. The one and only nice thing GM did for you is to have provided that 4th hole (the empty one) in the silver bracket--it allows you to pry and wiggle the motor mount pieces into alignment. Be prepared to adjust the engine up, down, front, and back a lot. With patience and some jockeying around, it all bolts together in reverse of disassembly.
Check for tools and anything you may have forgotten to tighten. The only left over part should be the original GM tensioner attachment bolt and the old tensioner, both of which you replaced with the new tensioner. Check coolant level. and Voila !!
AnswerNear the top of the belt is a spring-loaded belt tensioner with a pulley attached to it. Using the proper wrench, pry it back and the tension will relax so you will easily remove the belt. Look at how the belt travels across the pulleys first so you know how to put the new belt on.What is course made good?
Asked by Wiki User
'Course made good' is a navigational term, especially in use in the time of sailing ships. It means the course actually achieved on the chart (map), after making allowances for wind direction and currents.
Is there a diagram for putting on the alternator belt on a 1995 Lincoln Continental?
Asked by Wiki User
it should be located on the hood or in the engine compartment. if still no luck then got to you local dealer and they can provide a diagram for you
Where are timing settings for timing belt?
Asked by Wiki User
every system has its own marks and settings.
You need to provide make model year engine to get a correct answer
Putting on a serpentine belt?
Asked by Wiki User
I just changed a serpentine belt on my '97 Cherokee 4.0you need to loosen the 2 top mount bolts (I think they're 13mm) on the power steering pump and loosen the 15mm bolt in the middle of the idler pulley. Then loosen the tensioning bolt on the lower side of the power steering pump Lower (left hand side facing pump from the front) follow the diagram to route the new belt( should be on a decal under the hood) replace belt then tighten using the tensioning bolt on lower side of the power steering pump to get 1/4" to 1/2" of deflection between puleys (when you press down on the belt) then tighten the bolts on top of the power steering pump And don't forget to tighten the idler puley bolt in the center of the puley. Run engine for 3 to 5 minutes to seat the belt. then recheck the belt tension. Caution! be sure to route new belt propperly or you could run the water pump backwards NOT GOOD
How do you put a serpentine belt in a suzuki Reno?
Asked by Wiki User
look in from the passanger side of the engine compartment there is a spring loaded idler which can be accessed with a 15mm box wrench ( the idler has a little arrow on it) as you move it clockwise/counter clockwise it will increase or decrease the tension on the serpentine belt(observe this with the car not running!!!) you probably should remove the air cleaner black box,and the passanger side under wheel well black splash guard,you'll have more room to work.....the job is realatively easy.......just make note of the way the belt goes around each pulley....that idler can be accessed from under that wheel well also if you should have to get Moore deflection
http://www.freepdfmanual.com/2009/05/12/2004-daewoo-nubira-lacetti-maintenance-repair-and-troubleshooting-manual
Download this free manual for a daewoo nubira-lacetti. Same car, different name. Everything you ever need to know. Illustration for belts are really good, in the engine chapter.
How do I loosen the tensioner pulley on a 1996 Toyota 4Runner?
Asked by Wiki User
This means you have a 4.0L. There is no other way.....
Directions to installing serpentine belt onto 1999 Lincoln Continental?
Asked by Wiki User
This answer will assume you have the diagram and undersand normal belt replacement procedures. A idler pulley tool (a long slim bar with 1/2" or 3/4" socket head is highly recommended.
1. crank your wheels all the way to the right (passenger side). You will need to access the inner fender later.
2. Make sure your new belt is the proper length. Should be 75" or so.
3. unbolt the power steering reservoir from the coolant recovery tank.
4. unbolt the coolant recovery tank.
5. Remove upper fill plug on the solid coolant line that runs near the alternator.
6. Remove the radiator hose from the coolant line.
7. Remove the radiator hose from the bottom of the coolant recovery tank.
8. Remove the electrical connection/fill sensor from the bottom of the recovery tank.
9. Remove the coolant recovery tank.
10. review the routing diagram should should be found underneath the 'plastic shroud' that sits on top of the radiator in the engine compartment.
11. remove the inner fender enough so that you can access the pulley's from the side and underneath. There are 'plastic clips' that hold it in.
12. using the idler pulley tool remove the tension on the belt.
13. Remove the belt. It is easier to get the belt off (believe it or not) by routing it underneath the car. If it hangs up do not pull or you may break off something important. If you are getting frustrated simply cut the belt.
14. Install the new belt. This is very challenging and improved suggestions are welcome......
14-1. Focus on getting the 'left' side of the belt wrapped around the idler pulley, top end going underneath the water pump pulley and bottom end on top of the crank pulley. There is very little room here....very very little....
14-2. You will need to switch from top to bottom and add or remove tension on the idler pulley as needed. The belt slips on the idler pulley from the 'engine' side, not from the front of the pulley which is blocked by it's bracket.
14-3. Consider removing the water pump pulley if it is not pressed on. In the end it will save you time....
14-4. Be very patient. To route the belt around the idler pulley you must make a 'cramped U' out of the belt and go in from the bottom (or top). Tie a 'strong string' to the middle of the 'U' if you need help pulling it thru tight spots. Be forewarned. This is very difficult and nearly impossible to do by yourself. Having a helper manipulate the position of the idler saves time.
14-4. If you skipped step 14-3 consider going back to it....
14-5. If you can do this job with the vehicle on a hoist. You will still need to access the top...
This was by far one of the more frustrating things I've ever done on a car which includes installing engines/transmissions, replacing cylinder heads, etc.. The amount of work required to do something so simply is the frustrating part. Wonder what the book provides to do this job.
This was one of the most frustrating jobs I have done, but it is still doable by a shade-tree. I did not have to remove the coolant reseviour as there was just enough give to pull it forward and out of the way, but be careful if you try this because if you force it too much you'll be going to new hoses. I was also changing the alternator and pulling the reseviour forward gave me the space I needed to drop it down and remove it. I would also suggest removing the alt if you want more room and not pulling off the water pump pulley.
By far the most challenging is 14.1, getting the belt wrapped around the idler pulley As I approached it I could see there is a bolt head that will prevent you from getting the belt in. The tenioner only had to be moved a little to gain enough room so since I used a pipe and wedged the idler pulley tool such that the pulley was about half way de-tentioned. This gave me all the room I needed to get by the bolt head and get the belt on the rest of the way without having to go up and down. As the original post stated be patient. It will take some wiggling to get it in but it can be done. Next feed the belt around the crank pulley then water pump then ac and dummy pulley then the alt. You will also gain a lot more room to access the tensioner if you remove the passenger tire. Its just physical room for your body, but not having to squeeze your arm around a tire will make you more comfortable.
Where is 1997 ford explorer belt tensioner located?
Asked by Wiki User
on my 1995 4.0 L OHV it is located below the alternator
