Sewing

It's possible that the thread has gotten caught up in the bobbin for some reason - usually because there is a problem with the tension of the presser foot.

how to sew a straight stitch with a singer 413

Generally, fabric is used as purchased, folded in half with finished sides (selvages) together, and wrong side inward.

elias howe

You cant.

Answer two:

If you are using a knitting needle, or a crochet needle, you can find patterns for many different styles of clothing to make with thread.

If you are using a sharp sewing needle and thread, you need to add some type of fabric to sew together.

This is one of the more common ways, but it's certianly not the only way to sew a sequin.

You need thread, a sequin, a bead that is smaller than the sequin and larger than the hole in that sequin. a needle thin enough to fit through the hole in your sequins. the fabric you are attaching it to.

hold your sequin flat against your fabric using your thumb and forefinger (or pointer). The thumb should be on the top of the fabric with the sequin and the forefinger underneath the fabric pinching everything together.

bring your threaded needle up through the back of your fabric. Preferably through the hole in the sequin. If you miss your sequin, before the needle is all the way through the fabric, thread the sequin onto the needle.

Pull all thread up so that sequin is flat against fabric and sewing thread is all on the front side of the sequin.

Thread the bead onto the thread.

Put your needle back down through the hole in the sequin (the way you came out) and out the back of the fabric.

The bead will be holding the sequin to the fabric. You can also make a small stitch through the back of the fabric to 'stay' the sequin after this step, but if you are moving on to add more beads and sequins it's not totally nessisary.

Presser foot is a part of the sewing machine, precicely the part that holds the canvas down when you sew.

A quarter-inch foot is a presser foot designed to allow the user to sew seams 1/4" wide

Hand wind the shirring elastic onto your bobbin. Use same color standard thread for the top. If you are going to need a hem, hem it first because it's harder after shirring. Simply sew the lines from one end of the line to the other, about 1/2 inch apart. The shirring elastic will automatically gather the fabric for you. Be sure to tie the ends to keep them from pulling out, or anchor them with extra stitching.

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dat iz a gud Q kitkat nd 1 i dont havan answer 2

Zigzag motion refers to the sharp angles that waves make when travelling called zigzag.

I have found a few pattern that will work for praise dance wear.One was Butterick #3977 for a long or shorter tunic style overlay. The other was also Butterick b-4807 for palazzo pants. For a skirt you may have to find the fullest pattern. Our dance team ended up buying our skirt from riversedge and making or own overlays. I hope this help a little.

Try Valerie Henry Dance Ministries-Women's Patterns.

Check out About.com's patterns.

For a PONCHO overlay for dance, drama...ANGEL WINGS, check out

Christan Costume Closet's sewing pattern. For men,women,children. Any color.

Create a butterfly, angel, dance overlay. Combine with a skirt and hold up skirt's sides for "huge wings."

I'm pretty sure 4 feet or a little less if you need fabric for the drawstrings.

1. They were for funerals, ordination of priests and baby cloths. One occasion in which Hester is never asked to make clothing is a wedding dress.

Yes, you just have to keep a close eye on your stitch tension: not too loose and not too tight. If your stitches are too loose they will sag. If your stitches are too tight they will pucker your fabric.

i think its made out of metal .

thnx

I have numerous questions about my model 158.12310. Even general questions about sewing machine settings would be helpful. But here I am in "internet hell" trying to find simple answers to simple questions in a vast wasteland of useless information. Oh well. It's easy to find porn!

The easy answer is 750. Thread count indicates the number of threads counted in one square inch of the fabric. 250 thread count fabric will be woven looser and feel rough to the touch in comparison to 1000 thread count fabric. Another difference is price. The higher the thread count the higher the price. According to Consumer Reports, anything over 400 thread count is a waste of money.

BKE has tons of different fits. One will fit you perfect. I just bought my first pair and it the best pair of jeans I own. I will buy BKE from now on. Once you find the correct fit (at the store) then go online to shop sale items.

I just bought a Kenmore Sewing Machine model 385.1884180 with out wooden cabinet for $24.95 at a use store today 12-1-2007 (it did have a nice hard plastic case)

Jeanette Allen

I own one of these, it is about 22 years old. To me it is priceless, except having a little tension problem right now, first problem!! The value of this machine when I got it NEW was $700. So if you can get it up and running nice, you will find the $25 you paid a bargain!

Joyce Nokleby

Used Kenmore sewing cabinets sell for between $10 - $20. The condition of the sewing machine is irrelevant.

The value of the sewing machine is approximately zero ($0.00). There is nothing wrong with this particular make or model. Ninety-nine percent of these older, electro-mechanical sewing machines aren't worth anything because the cost of having it serviced approaches or exceeds the price of a NEW machine from a discount store. A new $89 machine will do everything the old one does and more.

An old machine that has been stored away for years always requires service, even though it appears to sew ok for a quick test. All the grease and oil which lubricated the machine has either hardened or turned to varnish. This gunk has to be cleaned out and the machine lubricated else the machine will jam and break threads on the first project.

Although older machines might be constructed from mostly metal, this alone doesn't make them "better" than a new machine having a lot of plastic parts. Mass produced, consumer goods from yesteryear have all same short comings of modern mass produced, consumer goods. They cut corners to save cost. You don't find out what these corners are until you have a problem. You are unlikely to break a new machine but if you do then you can take it back. Breaking an old machine will lead you down a path of frustration. You'll discover that the "all metal" machine has little plastic gears and a rubber timing belt, both of which have become fragile with age.

This is why there is little to no market for old sewing machines.

When you own an old sewing machine that you must get rid of, feel satisfied if you find it a good home; otherwise it will end up in a landfill.

Of course, you can always stick it to someone by asking a high price for the machine than laying in wait for someone who doesn't know how to value such items. This happens all the time in antique stores.

****New Post Below********** September 2009*******************

Well, I have a slightly different take... My Grandma got her Kenmore 48 with cabinet in 1961. It has never been professionally maintained. It has only been oiled and cleaned by Grandma, my mom and now me. I did replace the drive belt in 1982 (by myself) and the belt cost me $6.78 - I still have the receipt in the owners manual. Although I now do most of my sewing on a Husqvarna, I still use the Kenmore for basic mending. The machine is priceless to me, but I did have a coworker offer me $100 a few years ago because she liked the cabinet so much (I have in my living room and use as a decorative table when not in use). An item, no matter what it is, is only as valuable as someone is willing to pay. I would NEVER think to spend over a thousand dollars on a doll from 1952, but as I saw in an antiques newsletter last month, many people DO!!

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I was recently "given" a Kenmore 385.1884180 by a fellow quilter. She was helping a friend of hers downsize. It turns out......the machine (including the cabinet) have never been used. It is brand spanking new. I was looking for a machine for my nine year old granddaughter who loves to quilt. This will be her Xmas present. It will last her a lifetime. I was in the right place at the right time.

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Shows that "all that is old is not useless. My mom gave me in 1970 a Wards machine she bought in 1962. Had it gone through and it was my confirmation gift. This is the one which has sewn truck/pickup seat covers, heavy winter coats, tarps, finest dress fabrics. In 1978 I got a new Kenmore and the Wards, again, became #2 BUT my husband moved it to his workshop and jeans, heavy coats, boat tarps, etc are the projects. Thing is, with the OLDER machines, there were NOT all those parts it in. A STEEL sewing head was heavy, but very seldom did anything get repaired. Same as with our grandmothers and great GMs treadle machines. And there are those still out there working perfectly.

My little glitches are over when I discovered it was a thread thing. Only C&C in my machine from now on. I had tried to use up some of grandma's OLD stuff from her sewing box. I sew jeans, fleece to the finest fabrics.

I have gone machine shopping and what I find is disgusting. All that plastic that breaks off, the sales people seldom know the difference from a double needle to an Allen wrench. I don't spend money on something that will be crap within 10-15 years. Longivity it a must. And I WILL NOT buy a warrenty on a new machine IN CASE IT BREAKS. They either stand behind their product or don't buy.

Some simple rules to follow, keep your machine oiled with speciality machine oils, keep it clean. Clean and oil between projects. Use an air compressor or can compressed air to blow things out. I have the electronics attachments for the vaccum cleaner-call them my BARBIE TOOLS. If you don't, take a small dixie cup, poke a little hole in it, stick a bendable straw in that with the bended side out, tape the cup to the wand extender of your vaccum and make yourself a quick small nozzled cleaner. I use this to clean VCR/DVDs, computers, my werlitzer organ wires and keys, right down to electronic car parts. Don't be afraid to change out needles. You can't always tell it is slightly bent. Change needles size with fabrics used. I like the ballpoint needles.

Joyce back again after buying new PFAFF sewing machine. I still prefer my now 26 yr old Kenmore. Plastic parts in a machine may make it lighter, but it is not reliable. If this PFAFF lasts me 2 years, I will be lucky. Taking my Kenmore in for some replacement parts. And I still won't have spent the $500 the PFAFF cost me.

Some say the air solible pens are the best, unless you live in an especially humid area or gets lots of rain. Then the marks can disappear very quickly; even while you're working. Some people still prefer chalk pencils. ANSWER: The answer depends on the project and the fabric. Will you be finishing the project quickly or will it be finished over a period of time? "Air Soluble" means they will disappear without any help from any other agent besides air. Air is everywhere so, in a very short time, the marks will vanish. Also, please read the brochure before using the marker because some of the marks might become permanent if ironed. The water soluble markers are nice to use because they do hang around for extended periods but, again, read the directions before using them. With any sewing aid, do a test on scarp fabric before use.

Persephone. This is how dreams were created. Morpheus thought that sleeping was close to death and Persephone didn't like it. She wanted sleeping to me more pleasant. Morpheus then went around with this pocket and sprinkled it on houses. We have him to thank for our pleasant, disturbing, scary, dirty, etc. dreams.