Subaru Outback

The gross weight of the 2012 Subaru Outback is 4585 lbs..

The 2003 Subaru Outback's engine produces 165 hp @ 5600 rpm.

The best way it find it is in one of those fix it yourself book, at most autopart stores for around 20 bucks. Make sure you follow the tighten down pattern exactly or you will have major problems

5.7 liters (6 us qt).

Two.

There is no specific filler plug for the manual transmission. It is filled via the dip stick hole. To get relatively easy access to the dip stick hole, it is best to remove the air filter casing ( quite simple ). It is best to have an oil syringe ( or a long plastic tube attached to a bottle ) to fill the gear box and to monitor how much you are putting in. When you have put in about 3.5 litres, check every 0.25 litres using the dip stick until you get to the full mark on the dip stick. Hope this helps.

Trouble code P0171 means: Fuel System Too Lean - Bank 1

Yes, the 2.5L's are all interference valves to pistons. The dohc's can also be interference intake to exhaust valves in addition to pistons to valves. Symptoms of a bent/knicked valve could include loss of power and poor fuel economy. To check for this, among other engine issues, you would do a compression and/or cylinder leak down test.

If you're talking about the honeymoon one its "Here comes the sun again", by M. Ward

Though it could be technically possible, it's probably not financially responsible. It would likely cost more than an automatic 1999 Subaru Outback with a rebuilt engine. The main problem would be in changing it from manual to automatic. Or, there are no automatic/manual "engine's", the engine IS separate from the transmission, this is an easy swap provided you have th skills, the wiring harness and ECU will need to be swapped as well.

This procedure should be useful for the front rotors and brake pads on ANY modern car, not just Subarus. Most cars are very similar in that the rotor is held on by the wheel.

I could not find how to do this on the Internet so I just "discovered" it myself by doing on my 2001 Outback.

Allow about 1 hour per wheel in case of stuck nuts, etc.

1. With a lug wrench, slightly loosen the wheel nuts on one of the front wheels.

2. Set the hand brake and jack up (under the A-frame) that wheel until the tire is off the ground.

3. Remove the wheel nuts and then remove the wheel.

4. Now is a good time to put a block of wood under the A-frame for safety.

5. Locate the 2 bolts that hold the Caliper in place. In many Subarus these are 14mm.

6. Remove these bolts and lift the Caliper away from the disc. Note that it is still attached by the hydraulic hose and you don't want to stress the hose. So place the caliper on a small box, 2x4 or something that supports it (back in the wheel well).

7. Now locate the 2 larger bolts that hold the caliper mounting frame. In many Subarus these are 17mm bolts. Remove them and lift out the caliper frame.

8. The rotor disc is now free but is most likely rusted in place. Use a hammer to tap on the rear of the disc, forcing it away from the hub, outward towards you.

9. Remove the disc. Clean up the disc seat area with a wire brush. Apply a little oil.

10. Install the new disc rotor and temporarily put on the bottom wheel nut to hold in place.

11. Replace the caliper frame and bolt in place.

12. Use a large C-clamp to push in the piston(s) of the brake cylinder enough to accomodate the new pads and rotor.

13. Install the new brake pads into the Caliper and slide over the disc. Align the bolt holes and replace the 2 Caliper mounting bolts. Tighten all bolts securely.

14. Replace the wheel, tighten as much as possible, let down the jack and tighten the wheel nuts more.

15. Repeat with opposite wheel.

It is really pretty easy, don't let all the steps throw you. When you are all done start the car and pump the brake pedal a few times to bring the pedal travel back to normal. Try not to use the brakes very hard for the first few miles of driving to let them seat in nicely.

Manual describes it in section 10-50. 1. Disconnect the electrical connector, then remove rubber cover. 2. Remove the retainer spring. 3. Replace the bulb, then set the retainers spring securely. 4. Install the rubber cover with the top mark facing up, then reconnect electrical connector.

This is simple and easy if the bulb assembly comes out easily. I completed steps 1 and 2 but instead of the bulb assembly simply sliding out the back cover on the contacts came off leaving me with the three contact prongs and nothing much to pull on.

I used a pair of pliers (if you have needlenosed it might be better/easier) and g e n t l y pried the rest of the bulb assembly out and the rest went smoothly.

I sometimes sputter when I'm nervous. Please reword the question and tell me what year and engine and describe what you are doing with the car when "sputtering" occurs. Would help if you can think of additional description of what you mean by "sputtering".

our out back when we test drove it (( used )) we noticed a smell of gas I inspected the fuel lines and they had lil rubber lines in between the metal lines that were loose i tightened them up((after getting the used car salesman to drop his price by 800 dollars )) and havent had a problem since

A Catalytic Converter reduces unburned exhaust gasses.

See "Rear Combination Lights" on page 76 of chapter 11 "Maintenance and Service" in the "OWNER'S MANUAL".....

It actually pretty simple after I figured out how to expose the bulbs. There is a plastic cover that has to be rotated to the right less than 90 degrees standing in front of the bumper. Before you do this, mark the plastic housing with a mark of some sort so you can line it up for putting it back on without spending a lot of time like I did. The plastic cover has tabs that fit inside slots in the housing that are difficult to see. Removal of the air intake plastic piece makes this job easier and 2 10 MM bolts are all that is required to simply remove this interference. It is difficult (impossible) to see the instruction "rotate to remove" instruction on the plastic cover unless it is removed. Go figure! Once the plastic cover removed, the low beam bulb (H1) is easily removed by pressing down the wire retaining spring on the right side of the bulb and swinging it out of the way. This spring clip will stay attached and won't drop. The wires to the bulb (less than $10) should be pulled off - different size quick disconnect lugs. Replacement is straight forward, but make sure the rubber O-ring on the plastic cover doesn't fall off and that all the cover tabs are engaged into the housing. The plastic cover should fit tight all the way around to ensure a good water seal. The high beam bulb is below the low beam. The bulb assembly is rotated 90 degrees to the right and comes out of the housing. The bulb can be removed from the socket (wires attached) by pressing down on a locking tab with your index finger. Replacement is the opposite. Hope this helps. Note: My 2005 Outback Owner's Manual shows the low-beam to be an H7 bulb, not an H1. Tip: As with all Halogen bulbs, DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB. Transferring dirt and grease from your hands/fingers will greatly reduce the life of the bulb.

Melody Gardot?

15w/40w synthetic

wheel torque specs are 80 foot pounds.

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place the thermostat with the pointed facing out-ward away for the motor.

The spark plug gap for a 2007 Subaru Outback Touring Edition should be set at 1.016 mm. This is equal to .040 inches. A new spark plug will come pregapped and does not need to be adjusted any further.

Assuming a US engine, it's accessed from the passenger side just in front of the throttle body, screwed into the intake manifold with a 1" black hose running to it. It is considered a maintenance item so if it has never been replaced, you should probably just replace it. They are inexpensive, like ten bucks.