not key. but a set nibble to set in pulley.

I'm having a very similar problem with my 1988 Volvo 760 with the B230F/T engine.

We troubleshot the problem down to the ignition system.

We have tested the car as best we can with this intermittent problem and feel it is either the impulse sender in the distributor cap (Volvo repair shop says is most replaced part involved in this problem), the power stage or the ignition ECU.

If it would just fail consistently we could figure out which is the actual problem.

Now in case your problem is different than mine (It seems it is, somewhat, as mine stalled "SOMETIMES" when it stopped and also would have two other symptoms - it would have a momentary loss of power that would be revealed as a brief dip in RPM and a slight lurch or a more lingering similar loss that would see the RPM drop to zero and would be similar to downshifting in a manual to save your brakes, but it would recover.) you need to go back to basic troubleshooting:

Air

Fuel

Spark

Check your idle speed. Make sure your air filter is good and your air/fuel mixing is not having problems like with a stuck butterfly valve. See if you've got any loose vacuum lines. Could your fuel filter be clogging? Is your fuel pump weak? Dirty injectors? Have you done a tune up (plugs, wires and maybe distributor cap & rotor) lately? Check your timing.

I decided to do a tune-up starting with plugs and wires. When I went to take the #1 wire off it came apart in my hands! (I bought this car 2nd hand and haven't had it that long. The wires LOOKED good, but clearly they were not.)

Does it run rough in idle?

Anyway, that should get you started. If you have any manuals they have other suggestions (Chiltons, Haynes)

I had a similar problem with my 88 760 Turbo Wagon...it turned out to be the fuel pump which was beginning to fail and overheat at low flows which were caused by a failing pressure regulator (not bypassing enough fuel). This combination of failing parts worked well under load, but as soon as I got off the gas, it would stall - cool down - restart and run fine - so long as I was not idling.

its located at the bottom of the shifter assembly under the consol.

nearly dead centre. maybe slightly right. it activates by being moved upward.

you can find it in a workshop manual

Loosen all the fuel lines at the injectors. Crank the engine until you see fuel coming from all the loosened connections. Re-tighten the connections and crank the engine. It should start. Einar Petersen, Chief Engineer, U.S. Merchant Marine, Tampa, Fla. 813-469-7556

You have to purchase the whole unit from most suppliers, even recyclers. You could re-glue lens only if you could find it by itself. Good Luck with that!

It is the Volvo fuel injection relay . It provides the ground path for the fuel injectors.

According to info I found, Volvo 1323592-1 is used as a cooling fan relay and as a noise suppression relay.

n.a. fuse relay only.

same as any other car.. oil change bout 25 average, plugs bout 30

Stupid idea.

Heater core failure.

it's located beside the passenger side.

It's possible, but you need to know-how to do this. Also note that, if your truck is equipped with a Qualcomm system, it will report any time you travel at speeds over what you're permitted by your company. Additionally, that same information will be downloaded from the engine control computer by the mechanics whenever your truck goes in for a major service. So, if you wish to retain your employment, and not have a black mark on your DAC report - which will hinder your efforts to get hired on with another company after you're fired for unauthorised altering of the engine controls - you'd be better off not to attempt it.

Everything the regular key does...doors, hatch, ignition. It will not however open the glove box.

On the dash disply - you will see a small rubber plug in the clear plastic cover. Remove plug. Depress button under plug with the tip of a pen. This will turn off the service light for 3000 miles.

well I have 1990 Volvo 760 and its horn is in the regular place, in the middle of the steering wheel. But my horn doesn't normally work when I am driving because my key lock is so worn, maybe your car has the same problem. I have to turn my key towards the off direction by about 5 mm before my horn and radio will work.