VW Beetle Type 1

As fast as its engine will let it.

Or about 65mph.

Different engines and tires will change this.

do i can assemble engine Volkswagen's beetle 2000 in Volkswagen beetle 1980

Go to a good supplier like CIP1.com and check out the different hoods.

The super beetle is longer so the front bonnet or hood from a standard will probably not fit.

The 2013 Volkswagen Beetle's turning circle is 35.4 ft..

Roughly the same size as the heart of an adult Blue Whale. True!

IT is a pain. I'm still trying to do it now. Spend 1 hr so far the hinge. Anyone with some tips. The clip on the handle won't come off it is stuck on metal.

Unscrew the bleeder bolt on each brake, one at a time, and see if that allows the wheel to spin freely. If it won't, the brakes are rusted/ frozen and you'll need to replace them. If the wheels can then spin it sounds like a master cylinder issue or perhaps blocked lines. Replace the lines first because it's cheaper and should be done from time to time, then the master cylinder.

It is the generator/charging circuit lite. Faults with generator, voltage regulator, etc. will cause this lite to come on. Will sometimes flicker at low RPMS. The first thing to check is the fan belt--if it's loose or missing, the red light will come on. This is also your "cooling system" light, because the fan is bolted to the end of the generator shaft.

The starter is located on the passenger side up and behind the rear wheel. you'll see it bolted through the edge of the transmission. It's a tight fit into there but it's the only round thing up there with a few wires coming out of it.

firing order on a 2001 volkswagon beetle with 1.8 turbo is 1 3 4 2.

refer to service manual

The timing gears are pressed onto the tail end of the crank shaft (inside of the case). Both gears are meshed directly to the distributor and push rod cam shafts (no chain or belt is used). Any Bentley, Chiltons, or Haynes repair manual shows the location and illustrations of these gears.

There isn't one. If you look at the bottom of the engine, there's a round plate with six acorn nuts holding it on. Take those off and you'll find an oil strainer. This car was designed in the 1930s when everyone did it that way, and it wasn't updated when the rest of the world figured out oil filters were a good idea. The flipside of that is, if you gotta change the oil in a Bug in the middle of nowhere, where there's plenty of motor oil but no filters, you can wash the screen out, put it back on and not have to worry about your new oil being full of old dirt.

The answer depends on the problem. If your shifting is sloppy and you're looking to tighten it up, then you need to replace the shifter bushing or the shifter U-joint. The U-joint is easier to replace. To change the bushing, you need to remove the shifter. Just behind the cup that the shifter goes in, there is a little plastic bushing that surrounds the shaft and is held in place by a metal loop hanging down from the top of the tunnel. Pull the shaft forward (towards the front of the car) and slide/pull/yank/cut the old bushing out. Take the new bushing and slide it in place. It should snap into place and be firmly held in position. If it will not snap in or if there was no old bushing, then your loop is worn out and needs to be replaced. This is a little harder and would require much more explanation. To change the U-joint, you need to remove the rear seat. Underneath an oval plate held in place with a screw, there is a metal cage holding large square rubber blocks in place. There is a bolt going through the rubber blocks that attach the cage & blocks to the shift rod coming out of the transmission nose cone. If these blocks are loose or sloppy then they need to be replaced. I recommend getting the neoprene replacements - they will outlast your car! They are usually red so you can tell the difference between neoprene and the black rubber ones. Just make sure to put a little grease around the outside of the blocks everywhere that they touch metal. They last a long time but they tend to be squeaky! A little grease will stop the squeaks. You can replace the cage if you want, but as long as it's not bent out of shape or worn through anywhere, it should be perfectly fine to re-use. I've only ever had to replace ONE cage EVER, and that's because I bent the hell out of it myself! I hope this helps you! If your problem is something else then you need to be a little more specific with your question.

No. The manual for the Beetle Type I's indicate that it will run on regular unleaded fuel. 2. This is not required, but you might add a little(about a quarter cup) of Marvel Mystery oil to the gas and engine oil. Helps to lube the engine valves. But don't use to much at a time... It's good for older engines like the VW Bug. I've been running my 1968 the last four years as daily transportation on 10% gas alcohol blend, only adding marvel Mystery oil occationally.

If you're standing behind your car... Cylinder 1 is front right Cylinder 2 is back right Cylinder 3 is front left Cylinder 4 is back left

Take the covers off of the front and rear signals and make sure the bulbs and wires are tight and not loose and touching each other. The worse case scenario would be you may have the wires somewhere worn thru and touching each other.

Yes it is a one year part, just like the body of a 68 is one year only with the fuel flap you can open with your finger. If you are a purist you woudl most likly want to use that speedo but any VW speedo will work.

I disconnected the fuel line from the fuel pump, attached a two-foot section of fuel host to the fuel line, then blew compressed air through the line until I could hear bubbles coming from the fuel tank. Then I draped the hose over the back bumper, and let the dirty fuel drain through the system into a spare gas tank. When clear gas was coming out, I reconnected the fuel pump, changed the fuel filter, and it was good to go.

It's been a while, but doesn't the fuel line go through the main tunnel? If so, that's a problem. You may need to run a replacment steel fuel line INSIDE the vehicle, along the floor and out through the back. Be careful that you don't run it anywhere that it might rub against a sharp or moving object, then use some kind of bedding material that will keep it from moving around and rubbing against the body.

It would be easier in the long run but I wouldn't.

I just replaced my wiring harness in my daughters 73 SB and although it was a real pain and took forever because I am 240 lbs, I did it without pulling anything.

Well, my daughter pulled my finger once !!

Original, no. I think it was 73' they started. However, it was the most popular motor built. The 1600 cc engine started in 1970.

can I flat tow my 2000 VW New Beetle with 5 speed Transmission

Probably in the hardest place to get to. These cars are cool looking, but unique is a four-letter word when it comes to repairing these things. Get the owners manual and a bible and pray the owner's manual has it in there. Be careful not to break anything either as VW parts are crazy expensive. I just repaired a 2006 Passat that hit a deer and spent over $7600 in parts alone.

The 1975 regular Beetle windshield will fit the 1971 Super Beetle.