VW Super Beetle

kamei is the brand

look on "super beetles only" forum for the group buy.

$250 each and they are not effective until 50-60MPH

Under the hood on the backside of the dashboard. If you have a new one already you should be able to match it up easily.

50 degrees of dwell, plus or minus two degrees. Set them to .016", hook up your dwell meter and run the engine. If the dwell's too high, open the points gap; too low, close it down.

A Beetle has a shock front suspension whereas a Super Beetle has McPherson struts. A Beetle has a flat windshield, Super has curved windshield from 73 on, but has a flat windshield in 71 and 72. Front hood on Beetle is narrow and comes to more of a point. Super looks wider and is more rounded. Supers are also known as Fat Chicks.

ALL Supers have the McPherson strut so just look under the front hood in tire well and see if it has the "shock" inside the coil spring. The standard Beetles all have the same style from the A pillar back as the supers. 73 and later also has a big curved dash.

Lastly, in 1977 the only Super was a convertible, 75 was the last year for a Super Beetle Sedan in the USA. All '77 convertibles are Supers. VW Beetle, Super Beetle history/FAQ, here is a link: http://www.superbeetles.com/faq.htm

http://www.vwshowtime.com/8_history/history_e2.html

The short answer is the only 77 Super Beetle was a convertible, no Super Sedans in 77, so if you have a US 77 Beetle Sedan it is not a Super Beetle.

71-72 Supers are AKA 1302, 73 and later known as 1303.

no actually the 1973 model (which i drive) is actually a beetle not a super because 73 was the year that VW changed to making only supers so you've got half beetles and the others supers but the only thing different is the front clip anywhere from dash board back is actually the same as a regular beetle but the other answer that i just improved is also correct they did go to the McPherson's strut for the front end so any where from 1974 on up are supers unless modified.

No,71 and 72 superbeetle hoods are longer than 73 and later,that have round windshield and 71 and 72 have flat windshield,by the way the hood is longer than 73 and later.

The 1972 rear fenders are the same on the standard and super Beetles, there is a difference between the front fenders however.

Stock is 1600 cc or 1.6 liter. The bore and stroke are 85.5mm and stroke is 69 mm.

1 - 4 - 3 - 2 (the word "Zundfolge" you found on your engine means "firing order")

chiltons repair manuals that you can buy at an auto parts store will have all the wiring diagrams for everything. if you buy on there in the back of the book in the chasis electrical part. not to expensive i think i paid $26.00 for mine.

If it's a Super that was made for the US market, it came with a 1600cc engine.

No....BUT...

You can swap over certain years brakes/rotors from the Karman Ghia over to the Beetles. Or you can buy the "kits" that do the same thing.

make sure that trans is in N if that dont work turn car off then shift to 2wd or 4wd

The super beetle has a different front end, having Macpherson struts. The apron, fenders and hood are styled different. The standard beetle has the torsion bar front end.

The factory jack is inserted into the square metal tube located under the running boards on both sides about a foot ahead of the rear wheels. Using other types of lifts and jacks would require placing them under the front or rear suspensions. Always use care to block wheels and put on the parking brake on level ground when lifting any vehicle, use jackstands when possible.

Google/Yahoo.... "Torque Tool Flywheel & Drum Plate Kit". Flywheel nut is held on with 238ft lbs and the axle nut is 253ft lbs. One man job with this tool. It also removes the rear axle nut. It's about $60 but well worth it. You can actually re-torque the nuts back on instead of guessing.

thesamba.com, cip1.com, etc.,,,,

you should research din removal tools or the coat hangar trick at http://www.i-hacked.com/content/view/213/45/

asides from that you will need a wiring harness for the aftermarket head unit

sadly i would think that you would have to search in just about every antique store.....i know one thing for a fact and that i that the car and the bike rack or for that matter spare parts aren't manufactured anymore....but if there is any hope it would be in an antique store or online...aha! i just thought of it you can try searching on amazon, Craig'slist and/or eBay

Get the Bentley service manuel for your year car as it has a lot of info you will need later on also. Well I believe after '70 or '71 on standard Beetles and all the Supers have a "duel" master cylinder system. The front brakes are isolated from the rears. If you lose the fluid from the front system you will still have the rear brakes available and visa versa. Either way, just go to the farthest wheel and bleed that one first. Right rear and then left rear. Right front then left front. Just bleed BOTH the front wheels before doing BOTH rears on a "duel" system. Get a clear plastic tube the same size as the bleeder screw head on the wheel and just have a helper step on the brake pedal as you open the screw slightly and then close the screw BEFORE the helper releases the pedal. The Master Cylinder creates a slight vacuum when you release the pedal so it will suck air back into the system again. Make sure the reservoir stays full or you'll have to do it all over again for that system.

I believe it's about 2 to 3 psi.

There isn't an external oil filter on a STOCK Beetle. There is a screen that is suggested to be cleaned/replaced. There is a plate that the drain plug is screwed into that has 8 or so small bolts that holds it in. Just order a "Beetle Oil filter Kit" and it will have it all included.

If you have an aftermarket external filter then it will usually take a Pennzoil PZ1 or a Fram PH8A filter.

1971 - according to Chilton's Manual VW Air Cooled 1970 - 81 Repair Manual. Charts are on this are located on pages 1-16 to 1-19.

See:http://www.superbeetles.com/history.htm

It's in the speedometer.

Dist. Points gap is .016" (0.4mm)

If you absolutely know you have a good charge then check to make sure both battery cables and battery posts are "shiny" clean. Get one of those wire brush type post cleaners and do the cables also. If that doesn't do it then un-tighten the battery ground strap to the body and clean the area by the bolt. Do the same for underneath the car also.

Another area is to make sure the fuse CONNECTION for the ignition is clean also. some times you can check it and it will show power but the connections has just enough corrosion that it won't let all the power come through. Just twist the fuse in place and that will tell you sometimes. It happened to me a few times driving down the road and the dang car just quit. I just happened to hit the fuse and heard a little spark and the car started again.