VW Super Beetle

My 71' squareback tires are 165/80R15 Hope that helps a little

as long as you can get the latches in the back of the hood to match up as well and the hood latch in the front you should be good.

Set the parking brake, put the car in neutral and turn the key. Don't press the clutch pedal because that's hard on your main bearings.

In my beetle I run SAE30 oil in winter, SAE40 in summer. I change oild religiously at 3K minle intervals without fail. Aircooleds don't seem to like multi-viscosity oils. If it's below freezing out the SAE20W oil is called for.

It will run just fine on unleaded regular. Either one you an afford.

The top is made up of three parts. The outside cover, the padding and the head liner. All three can be gotten off the web. There atr also several cables and springs located in the body and the frame work. If your not too well versed with the whole operation I would suggest to have a body shop look at it for you. I am going to replace mine and have found that by doing sa search for VW top replacement proved to be the best. I have e-mail Denise at EZ Softtops and included a photo. He was wery helpful. I have never used them befor but the responce was fast and truthful.

.006 on a 1600 engine. I would get the John Muir book How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive. And pick up a Haynes manual. I am rebuilding a 69 dune right now and just looked up some info and saw your question. There is tons of info here on the web unit so I bet you found your answer by now.

CHEERS!

No. The Supers were slightly longer to pass the US DOT collision regs.

The VW Beetle has 2 jack points, one on each side to the rear of the front door. The body/pan assembly is ridged enough that this single jack point will lift the entire side of the car.

If your car is tatty, or does not have a jack point installed, place a floor jack under the front bulkhead of the car, and raise the entire front end.

It needs an IRS Bug transmission. Any Bug from 1969 until end of production will have the right transmission in it.

I had one made for my 1973 Super Beetle, I simply removed one of my door handles and took it in to my local locksmith . He looked up the code on the handle and made me a new key. To remove the handle just remove one screw on the side next to the rubber weather strip and slide the handle forward.

There was probably dirt in the bottom of your tank that clogged the fuel filter when it ran dry. This is very common. Take out your fuel filter, drain any gas that might be left in the tank, replace the filter and refill the tank.

Open the front hood (bonnet) and on the right fender (standing in front of the car looking to the rear), mounted on the fender, is the reservoir. (On a US imported car)

It should be mounted on the inside of the fender thats on the same side as the steering wheel.

im not sure but on the 90 acura integra, the fuel pump is beside the gas tank on the driver side, that is the fuel level sending unit The pump is in the tank. undo the nuts on the top and pull the top up. connected to it is the pump itself. pull the connecter and hose off and replace. then replace the strainer and put back together

Looking towards the rear window, it is the RIGHT front cylinder. (passenger side, front cylinder, USA)

Figure $350 for a rebuilt unit, $100-150 to install.

First you have to pull the wheels off. First, find a big nut on the wheel that presses against a washer. Pull the cotter pin out and get a big, adjustable wrench and remove the nut. The driver's side turns to the right to loosen. Next, gently pull the wheel off. If you're careful, the bearings will stay in the wheel. If the bearing falls out on the ground you will have to clean them up in some solvent.

Now you just have to change the brake shoes, which is pretty simple. Once you are finished, put some bearing grease onto the bearing and slide the wheel back on. Snug up the big nut, but don't make it too tight. As you tighten it, the bearing squeezes tighter and you don't want it to bind. Once the nut is on put the cotter pin back in and you are finished.

My best guess would be to check the connection on the oil pressure sensor. you can find it on the side of the engine case just below the distributor. you may try replacing this sensor. it shouldn't cost more than $10. if this doesn't work you'll need to trace the wires.
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Before you do that, take the oil pressure sender out, stick a clean rag under the hole it was in, pull the center wire on the distributor so the car won't start and crank the engine over a couple times. If no oil comes out, the oil pump drive pinion isn't meshing with the slot in the end of the camshaft. You fix it by removing the crank pulley, then the back piece of tin followed by the oil pump cover. There are two gears in there. One of 'em has a shaft sticking out of it. Use a puller to push the shaft out a little, then stick it back in the engine. Wiggle it back and forth a bit. If the shaft's meshed with the slot, you won't be able to wiggle it far. Finish by putting a new paper gasket under the cover, bolting the cover on and changing the oil. Now...these cars will run a few miles with no oil pressure; the machinery inside the engine throws oil up on the moving parts. But it doesn't work forever.

remove little plastic tabs on both side of switch panel. under will be 2 screws on each side. remove screws. pull out panel with switches press tabs to release switch.

The main object is cleanliness..Make certain all metal lips are spotless from dirt, debris and rust...Install w/s rubber on glass/ use plenty of spray sillicone..Place a 1/4 inch nylon rope in the body lip of weatherstrip, overlap the ends if the rope at the bottom about 4 inches...Now, start pulling rope slowly to pull rubber lip over metal edge of body opening..have someone push down slightly on windshield as the rope is pulled..More silicone spray....Continue to pull rope slowly as rubber lip of weatherstrip folds over the metal edge of body opening..More silicone spray..Pull both ends of rope the same amount on each side until at the top where the glass will pop into place...Run your hand around outside of rubber to be certain all is in correct position...

Now you did it!!! Get glass cleaner to remove all that silicone

Without the filter is about 2.75 quarts, With the filter should be 3.75 qts.

That depends on your location, the condition of the car, the mileage, and what modifications/options have been installed.

Camber is done by adjusting the lower control arm bolt. Caster isn't really adjustable. you can buy a kit from toplineparts.com that will give you more adjustment.

You don't. There should be one attached to the unit, most likely in the control panel. If it is missing or destroyed, you need to call a Hobart service office and tell them the model and serial number, and any other technical info they need. If you are lucky, they will fax or mail you a diagram. Technical info is hard to come by for Hobart units. They tend to keep it on the down low. There techs are good, and they want you to hire them, not fix it your self. I know this cuz I am one.