VW Super Beetle

Use your voltmeter. Pull the headlight. You'll notice three prongs coming out of the bulb--one's for high beam, one's for low and the third is ground. Connect the negative lead of your voltmeter to a ground--the front bumper works--and the positive to one of the three prongs. Turn your headlights on and test for voltage on the prongs. One will have voltage; that's the low beam. Now turn your high beams on and check the connector for voltage again. If there's power at the socket replace the bulb--you can't change one filament in a sealed beam bulb. No power? Broken wire, bad socket or bad switch.

Lower the right lever near the right seat on the transmission hump near the shifter to turn the heat off. Raise it to get heat. Left side is for defrost or foot air. I believe the '69 had a manual lever in the foot heat vent also if you wanted to turn the foot air completely off and still have the air for the defroster.

The only things unleaded gas could screw up in that engine are the valve seats. Volkswagen started putting Stellite (a very, very hard metal) seats in their engines in the 1960s, so you're fine.

because you dont have the opption of down shifting to slow you down

check the driver door, driver door frame, or inside the gas fill cap for a label telling you what your tire pressure should be.

Stand on the right side of your car with the hood open, right next to the right rear fender, and look between the engine and the firewall. There's a 17mm nut back there; the bolt it's screwed onto is holding the starter in. The next question you have is, "how do I change it?" Very simple. You need a 17mm wrench, a 13mm wrench, probably a set of vise-grips, a jack and jackstands, and a new starter. You may also need a very small bolt--1/4" x 1 is fine. 1. Unhook the battery, jack the car up and put it on jackstands. 2. Use the 17mm wrench to attempt to loosen the nut I just told you about. Either it will loosen or it won't. If it won't, crawl under the car, find the starter and clamp the vise-grips to the top bolthead--it's on top of the starter in a REAL convenient place. Then crawl back out and remove the nut. 3. Crawl back under the car and remove the other 17mm nut, the bendix wire off the solenoid (it pulls off with your fingers) and the starter lead from the battery (13mm nut). Remove the starter with both hands, because if it conks you in the head it's really gonna hurt. 4. If you needed the vise-grips to get the top bolt out, take the top bolt (not the nut!) and the little bolt I told you to get to any welding shop. Stand in front of the guy with the most dirt under his fingernails, hold the starter bolt in one hand sticking straight up and down, lay the little bolt on the big bolthead with its head hanging over the side, and tell the guy "this is the starter bolt out of a Volkswagen, can you weld these two bolts together like this?" Five minutes later he'll be done. The intent of this second bolt is to hit the starter. When it does, the bolt will turn no farther, and you won't need vise-grips ever again. Pay him, thank him nicely and return home. 5. As they say in the books, "installation is the reverse of removal."

how do replace an accellerator cable on a 1973 bug

There should be an air hose coming from the spare tire filler nozzle to a plastic tank for the fluid on the right side of the wheel well in the boot. The air from the spare charges the tank. Pushing or pulling the wiper lever then pumps the fluid onto the windshield.

The spare tire is usually over pressurized to around 40 psi to make up for the average usage and still have enough air left in the tire for use as a spare. At least in theory.

Look at your engine. You will see the fan belt. The top pulley is hooked to the alternator. The stand the alternator is strapped to has a tube coming out of it at a 45-degree angle toward the left side of the car, and there's a cap on the tube. (If you have an Official Volkswagen Cap, there's a hose going between this cap and the air cleaner...that hose is a smog control device called a crankcase ventilation hose, so don't throw it away.) Unscrew the cap; that's where the oil goes.

The reasons that your high beams may not work could be the cause of a few factors. One, be sure to check the fuse that controls the high beams, it is separate from the fuse that controls the low beams. Next, if that doesn't work, go ahead and check the ground wires, a lot of the lighting problems in my VW was the cause of the ground wires. If this doesn''t work for you consider that the high beams could be burned out, but I figure that if both the high beams don't work that isn't the case. Then you would need to take into account the switch located in the steering column that turns the beams on and off is broken. Then if none of the above works you have an electrical short that needs to be fixed the best way to fix this probleem is to replace all the wiring that origionates from the high beams. Iknow this answer is a little long winded but this the way I do it to save the most money in the long run. Good Luck!

You can't. German engineers have been improving the design of these vehicles since their conception in 1939, that regulator is there for a reason and there is a risk of electrical fire by bypassing it.

If you mean the cable ... take the oil cap off the front passenger side wheel. Pull the spring clip off then pull it out from the back. Then disconnect the cable from the back of the speedo and pull it up. If your replacing it ... be sure not to bend it when you put it back in.

yes it can because oil cal leak into the exhaust system and contaminate the catalytic converter

Between 1971 and 1979.

Volkswagens are built by German people, who do NOTHING at random. Let us, then, dissect this part number.

The first three digits are the model which this part was originally used on. In this case, the first 1 means "type 1"--sedans--and the "13" immediately after it stands for Super Beetle. (This is also how we know the part is from a 1970s-era car: Supers were introduced in 1971.)

The second group is the Part Class. The "3" is for transmission parts; 01 means the case. The whole transmission is part group 300.

The third group is just a one-up notation, but VW liked to use the same numbers for the same part on different cars--like a brake shoe on a Super and one on a Bus would have the same third group, even though bus brakes and bug brakes are different.

1600cc carburated

Front of tranny, kinda sorta on the right side.

Should be located in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

New tensioner, as they are automatic.

If low beam works but high beam doesn't then: It is unlikely that both headlights burnt out the high beam filaments at the same time. I'd check each headlight beam with another headlight beam you know is working on both high and low beam filaments. If this works the higb beam, then the beams are no good. Another check, to make sure that both filaments in each headlight are working, is done by connecting 12 volts of power across the three terminals at back of the beam (negative to ground terminal and positive to first the lowbeam terminal and then the highbeam terminal). If both filaments light, headlight beam(s) are good. Brightest light is highbeam. If in doubt as to which terminal is which, look at the connector, the white wire is Highbeam, the yellow wire is lowbeam, the third wire is ground. So, now you know the headlight beam are good, but if problem is still not fixed, check the fuse for high beam. See your owners manual for location, or just check all the fuses. If the high beam fuse is OK, check the dimmer switch. If looking at the dimmer switch, the middle wire (56 termainal) is white with black stripes, this is the power in to the dimmer switch from the headlight switch (dash). The left wire (56b terminal) is yellow and it is the low beam power from dimmer switch to fusebox, the right wire (56a terminal) is white and it is the High beam power to fusebox. If the low beam works as you say, a quck check of the system and the dimmer switch, is to exchange the yellow (low beam) wire and the white wire (high beam). If the high beam nowworks but the low beam doesn't, and the fuses are all good, then the dimmer switch is faulty. If the fuses are not OK, check all the wiring first. Check to make sure all the wires are connected from headlight switch to dimmer switch to fusebox to each headlight. Look for shorts (burnt wires) in the curcuits, since if the fuse(s) burnt out, it did so for a reason. Repair first any burnt wires. Replace the fuse with the same sized fuse. This should fix your problem.

Dr. Ferdinand Porsche. Yes, *that* Porsche.

I live in Montana, I drive 60 miles round trip to work. at the end of my trip I go up a steep grade of a hill about a mile of it and then down the other side about 1/2 mile and I get around 33 mpg. with 99 bug...........Karen

A dual port 1600 is fine. As long as it is maintained it should have plenty of power for your bug. I frequently takes trips of 600 miles and more in mine.

There are a few ways to increase gas mileage but the most effective is the use of fuel infusion. Fuel Infusion is a powerful fuel catalyst that improves the efficiency of the combustion process in your car's engine.

The only 1979 super beetle model was the convertible.

Listed curb weight - 1920lbs.

As tested by Road &Track magazine oct' 1973 - 2290lbs.

Gross weight is 2,954 pounds.