Acura RL

a SCAN TOOL HAS TO BE USED TO RESET THE LIGHT. FOR EXAMPLE, WITH A SNAP-ON SCAN TOOL THERE IS AN OPTION ON THE SCROLL DOWN LIST THAT SAYS "RESET EMR LAMP"

on the back of the instrument group in the dash is a small hole that you insert a push-pin tool into to reset the latch relay that was activated by the odometer to enable the light. You can reach it with a jewelers screwdriver, but you need to disconnect the battery first (is the stereo off before disconnecting the battery?) and turn the camlocks that hold the backplate up. Better idea is take it to the dealer and have them reset it for you. It is there to remind you to have the timing belt replaced and the O2 sensor checked. if either fails, you will regret this decision to ignore the service call.

The question is too vague to give a specific answer, however; a high idle can only be caused by one basic problem: too much air is getting into the intake manifold. Now, this can only be caused by one of (or any combination of) three things.

1. Throttle. If the throttle cable is too tight (likely) then it will always have the throttle open somewhat. Or, if the throttle is get stuck (not very likely at all) it will be open as well.

2. Vacuum leak. If any gaskets related to the intake manifold (IACV gasket, throttle body gasket, etc.) lose seal, or if any hoses or tubes (brake booster line, fuel rail ventilation, etc.) are disconnected or damaged, then too much air will get into the engine. This is easy to find, as there is usually a loud hissing coming from the source of the problem.

3. IACV malfunction (most likely). The idle air control valve is a solenoid operated plunger that regulates air into the engine when the throttle is closed in order to keep the engine running. If you have a check engine light, pull the code to be sure it's for the IACV. If it is then here are the two possible problems. One thing that is extremely common (especially on high milage cars) is that carbon will build up and cause the valve to stick. In this case it is worth while to clean it with a degreaser and then reinstall it and see if the problem improves. If this doesn't work then it's probably a malfunctioning IACV and you'll likely have to replace it (don't forget a new gasket!). I think this part ranges between $100-200.

I replaced the Idle Air Control valve on my 1990 GMC Truck, 4.3 liter engine in Feb 2010. The cost was $24.95 at Autozone. I am sure that the price varies with the Automobile type.

When I start my truck the motor idles very high and even when it is at normal operating temperature it does not change. The AIC did not help. I will have to see if it is vaccum leak.

fuel injector reset button

Turn the key on but don't start it. and pump the gas pedal 3 times quickly this should turn it off.

Dunno about turning the vehicle off and pumping the gas (Someone's joke I guess). But the instrument cluster has a switch (on the back) on the Speedometer end of the cluster. Switch it up. I was replacing my steering wheel and then decided to try this. I did, and my MAINT REQ light is currently off. Unplug your battery, and remove the steering wheel. The steering wheel was the easiest steering wheel I have EVER removed. There are 4, 10mm nuts on the backside of the steering wheel. That removes the Airbag/center of the steering wheel. With the battery disconnected, unplug the 3 plugs that operate the airbag, remove Airbag/center. Now exposed is a 17mm nut in the center of the steering wheel, remove it. Now simply rock the steering wheel back and forth, side to side while pulling it toward the rear of the vehicle. NO STEERING WHEEL PULLER IS REQUIRED. I've done this twice on two separate vehicles and did not need a steering wheel puller. Now you can remove 3 simple phillip head screws on the dash to expose the cluster. Then you will see 3 more phillip head screws holding the cluster, remove them and then the cluster is free except for what is plugged into it. I unplugged everything to remove the cluster entirely. But now that I know where the switch is I think I could just reach to the backside and flick it up. One REAL BIG KEY HERE. DO NOT TURN THE IGNITION KEY ON TO CHECK THE LIGHT WHITHOUT THE AIRBAG HOOKED UP! Because if you do, the SRS light will come on because it is not reading a valid connection with the Airbag. That's where I am now, trying to figure out how to turn out the SRS light. Anyway, I know that whole operation sounds complicated, but it is not. On a scale of 1-5, i'd rate it a 2 (at the most!). It took me just more than one hour. Having done it twice now, I'd bet I could do it in 40 min or less, no joke. I'm guessin you don't have to remove the steering wheel to get to the instrument cluster, but it was pretty easy. Good luck, I hope this has helped and by all means please post some mechanical information to help someone else so we can all share. Thanks, Brownsoxx

Somewhat following the above info: I removed the two Phillips screws in the front of the speedometer panel and the one between the panel and the windshield(you will need a very short screwdriver for this). The screw is underneath a small rectangular plastic tab. Next, pull the cover forward, you will need to disconnect the wires on the left side of the panel, in my case it was the cruise control switch and three other connectors in the back. Swing the panel over so you can look in the back of it. Next, on the left side of the panel you will find a small, black, slide-type switch. Just reset the switch, put everything back the way it was, and you're done. I didn't have to remove the steering wheel. The actual job takes about 15 minutes. I don't think it can be done without removing the panel. Thanks to the original poster--you saved my butt. I needed to get it smogged and it would not have passed with the "maint" light on. The mechanic I took it to didn't know how to reset the stupid light.

No

disconnect the battery for about 2 min. that resets you car computer. if everything is good the check engine light should come off

You can also hold down both the select and reset buttons found at the right side of speedometer its important to hold both buttons at same time, then turn key to ON position (don't start engine) hold buttons for about ten seconds.Then start engine, this should remove light if light comes back your computer (its throwing a code) letting you know you have problem.You will need to take your car to the Dealership or Mechanic. good luck!

The battery will run down.

I have an 88 as well and my light was on for the longest time but since the 88 model has what they call an EMR module (Emissions Maint. Reminder) located below the headlight on the back of the instrument panel. So there is a little whole on the module that you can just push a screwdrive or something of that sort into the whole to reset the light.

This is so easy but the dealer charges you about $150 to do it. YOU can do this even if you have never seen a car before. It is that easy. First thing-----NO TOOLS NEEDED!!! If you are about to grab a screw driver or a pair of pliers then you are about to break something. NO TOOLS NEEDED. The job takes less than five minutes if you are doing it for the first time. Here we go: 1) Open the glove box; 2) At the back of the box you will see some fabric. It is held in place with Velcro. Push it down and pull it toward you flat so that you can see. You will see the hinges for the upper glove box (the one that holds the manuals). The upper glove box hinges are a snap in type. There are no screws. There are three approximately one half inch wide snap in type hinges. 3) Open the upper glove box and pull it toward you. It will unsnap out of its hinges. Don't twist or jerk it. Simply pull it forward and it will unsnap; 4) Directly behind the upper glove box is the housing that contains the cabin air filter. It is clearly marked with the words "AIR FLOW" and arrows pointing in the direction of the air flow. There is a tab on each side of the housing. Depress the tabs. DO NOT PRY THEM OUTWARD or you will break them off. Depress the tabs and pull toward you. The housing will slide out easily and it contains the filter. Be sure and watch for any thing that may fall into the air blower. My filter was full of leaves and I had to reach in and remove a couple that had fallen into the blower when I removed the filter housing. There is plenty of room for your hand and this is all VERY easy; 5) Replace the filter paying attention to the arrows on the filter showing the direction of the air flow. Also make sure that the edges of the filter slide over the plastic tabs in the filter housing. You will see what I mean once you take a look at way the old filter is inserted into the housing. Just take a moment to inspect before discarding the old filter; 6) Reverse the whole process. Slide the housing back into place. Snap in the upper glove box. Close it. Put the fabric back into place and close the large glove box. All done. Some people buy an original Acura filter for about $20. I bought an after market one for about $10. Looked the same to me and most of the forum commentators seem satisfied with the after market versions. But, with all the money you are saving on labor go ahead and buy the Acura filter if it makes you feel better! You just saved a bunch of time and money by doing this yourself. Remember---this takes five minutes and no tools. Don't grab a tool or you will be spending big money fixing what you are about to break. EASY, EASY, EASY job.

its not Recommeded.its a high proformance engine.

under the flap beneath the ashtray

To reset Maintenance light, switch key to on position, do not start. Press select and reset buttons at same time for about 15 to 20 seconds, then switch key off. If reset occured, the light will go off when you restart engine. If not, repeat process. Took three time for me.

Direct from the original dealer --- or contact Acura for maybe $100 ~!

check you fuse and grounding on horn.

THINK YOU MAY HAVE A BLOWN FUSE. DOME LIGHT AND RADIO ARE NOT ON THE SAME CIRCUIT NORMALLY. NOT SURE WHAT YEARS YOU CAR BUT YOU CAN CHECK THE FUSEBOX ON THE DRIVER KICK PANEL TO SEE IF THERE IS A BLOWN FUSE. IT SHOULD SAY LOCATIONS ON THE COVER AND WHAT AMP IT IS. EASY WAY TO CHECK IS TO PULL IT OUT, THIS WAY YOU'LL KNOW THAT ITS GOOD OR NOT. SOME CAR MAY HAVE FUSE BOX IN THE HOOD FOR THE DOME LIGHT OR IT MAY SAY INTERIOR LAMP. IF THE FUSE ARE GOOD, YOU MAY HAVE A SWITCH PROBLEM WHERE ITS NOT GROUNDED. CHECK THE SWITCH MAKING SURE ITS NOT LOOSE. AS FOR THE RADIO, YOU MAY HAVE A BLOWN FUSE ON THE RADIO HARNESS ITSELF IF ITS AN AFTERMARKET RADIO, CHECK THAT, IF NOT, THE RADIO IS BAD. THE RADIO NEED ONLY THREE SOURCE TO COME ON. 1. CONSTANT 12 VOLTS, 2. IGN 12 VOLTS, AND 3 IS PROPER GROUNDING.

There is a 5"x12" rectangular airbox on the right side middle of the engine that has 4 Phillips screws, one on each corner. Use a little bit of elbox grease and an appropriate sized screw driver to loosen screws until they rotate freely.

There's no need to remove them completely. Carefully slide air intake tube from the left side of the airbox (e.g using a flathead screwdriver). Remove airbox top cover taking care not to tear any of rubber hoses around.

Pull out the old air filter noting the positioning of the filter and replace with compatible filter (Fram CA9564 Heavy Duty Air Filter works) available at walmart or amazon. Also be sure to clear out debris caught in the bottom of the airbox before adding new filter.

Replace the airbox cover and tighten the screws. Re-attach air intake making sure the rubber tab from the air intake fits into the notch in the airbox.

You are done.

Open the radio from panel and take Serial number of the radio and call Acura dealer and get the radio code

What worked for me was to unplug the antenna in the back of the radio and then enter the security code. Once the security code is entered, you can plug the antenna connector back into the radio.

The 2014 RLX came out on March 15, 2013 as a 2014 model.

93

The diagnostic port is in front of the shifter below the ash tray there will be a rubber gromet protecting it from the smokers ash if it has been used..

Well, at a glance it is a 4-door sedan...A full size luxury model car-which appears to be the class specificially if that is what you mean. Though from several sources it seems to be referred to also as an E-class, which I am seeing to mean essentialyl the same thing, a full-sized luxury car.

It's located on the passenger side left corner

egr valve is located approx 1 foot left of centerline when facing the car and has large paperclip looking device on top