Brake Fluid and Lubrication

Don't do it! Your life (and others) depends on the effectiveness of your brakes. Consult a garage for advice.

Use DOT 3 beake fluid. You can purchase this at any parts store.

Where is the brake fluid filler located on a 2004 Toyota Corolla?

It looks like the word BRAKE. It is pronounced as BRAKE also.

On or near the master cylinder, which will be loacted on the firewall, driver's side. This information can be found in your owner's manual.

They are all pretty much the same, they havent started making different types of brake fluid for different types of cars yet but you never know, dont give them any crazy ideas.

See Your Dealer Parts Department. They Should Be Able & Most Will Run You a Copy Of The Brake System Showing Lines And Hoses. Good Luck Another option is Autozone.com and their free online Repair Guide. Extensive information, photos and diagrams.

cruise control switch

Remove the cap’s from the Brake Fluid Reservoir located on the right side of the vehicle as you are looking at it. Now carefully pour in the DOT 3 Brake Fluid you purchased at the Auto Parts Store. Be sure not to over fill it, now replace the cap's after you collapse the rubber cap to it’s compressed state.

you either have a bad master cylinder or you need to replace your brake pads if you hear a lot of squealing when you push down on the brake peddle in most cases that means you need to replace them unless you did recently then in most cases I would recommend bleeding the brakes there could be some air bubbles that are preventing proper pressure in your brake lines

DOT 3 or DOT 4

It is under the hood, driver side, up near the base of the windshield.

Motorcraft High Performance Dot 3 brake fluid

After the brakes are put together and you've bled the lines, just wash everything down with water to get rid of any brake fluid that you couldn't wipe up.

Listed on top of the master cylinder reservoir fill cap. Probably DOT3, but be sure. Look on the master cylinder cap or in your owner's manual.

Disc/drum brakes DOT 3

First of all, how did you check for air in the brakes ? I've been working on my brakes all day and haven't come across any sort of way to check for that. If you suspect there's air in the system, then the appropriate reaction seems to be bleeding the brakes. Secondly, just because there's fluid at the right level doesn't mean it's the *right* fluid. Brake fluid absorbs water directly and can intake air through small pinholes in lights that may not be visible. Both of these will affect the performance of the brake fluid - and thus the brakes - because both water and air are highly compressible whereas hydraulic fluid shouldn't be. Therefore, just having the right amount of brake fluid in there doesn't really matter that much if it's full of junk. When I bled my brakes today the fluid going in was crystal clear, and the fluid going out was dark brown like used oil; ugh. I suggest bleeding one of the wheels and bit and seeing what the fluid coming out looks like. If it's not new looking, or it's been 2 years or more since you've bled the brakes and fed new fluid through I'd consider bleeding the entire system. There are lots of articles to teach you how to bleed the brakes. Here's one thing NONE of them mention: the bleeder valves often get rusted in. What should have been a one and a half hour job for me turned into an all damned day affair because I messed around with vise grips, torches, wd40 and all sorts of effort to get the bleeders to loosen. In the end I just bought new calipers. They cost a mere 20 bucks each, and I did both sides of the front at the same time. Chances are you can mess with a stuck bleeder valve as long as you want and still end up needing new calipers, so if you have an older car, or the bleeder valves give you the least bit of fuss I'd consider new calipers right off the bat.

doesnt matter they work in either you are ok just dont doit unless emergency

Department Of Transportation ( DOT ) 3

You add fluid to the clutch reservoir. If it is empty, you have a leak and probably got air into the system. Proper repairs should be done to correct the problem.

What makes you think they do? They have one type system. Hydraulic.

take the lid off the master cylinder reservoir and fill the reservoir completely and put the lid back on.

Assuming you mean the color, not the ecological green, normal brake fluid for most US and Japanese cars is clear when new. Over time in the braking system, it can turn greenish and then red or brown as it ages. This is assuming it was not dyed at the factory. It is possible to purchase dyed brake fluid (ATE Super Blue) for performance/racing applications where the fluid is changed frequently. The idea is that each time you flush the fluid, you use a different color so that you see a change to the new color when all of the old fluid is out.

At the master cylinder. Look on the firewall in the engine compartment, in front of the area the driver sits. Clean off the reservior before opening it. You should be able to see the level and marking indicating how high it should be. If it has been 2 years or more or it is dirty , I suggest flushing it out, especially if it has ABS. Pukenstein@aol.com

While brake lines can break or blow out from rust it is usually under the car where they get dirt, salt, and road abuse. Doesn't mean yours didn't go at the master cylindar. If you have a question where the leak is, dry off the master cylindar and the vacuum booster behind it and the lines as well as you can. Fill the master and pump it a couple of times. You should be able to tell for certain where the leak is. I wonder if it is at the back of the master where it bolts to the booster? That is fairly common. Whatever the problem it is just a matter of replacing the part. The brakes will need to be bled all the way around.