Buick Roadmaster

Component Location View. RH Lower Instrument Panel

No, you have to check the RPO codes to find out if your car has it.

The fuse panel is accessed by opening the front door, the panel in on the end of the dash. A cover pulls off. HVAC blower is fuse 17. It is a 20amp fuse. The fuse in my #17 spot is a 25 amp fuse. In anycase, I had a few problems with the blower etc on my 1992 Roadmaster. Here is what I found. This is all under the dash on the passenger side of the car. You need to remove 4 screws holding the lower dash panel under the glove compartment. Took out fan motor to test it - this was not easy, you have to move the ignition module aside - it works ok. This was a waste of time, I could have just checked it by connecting the purple wire from the motor connector (motor connector is 2 wires, 1 purple, 1 black) to the orange wire in the controler connector. Of course I didn't have a wiring Diagram at the time. Need to find out what the 4 wire / tandem connector on the resistor block does so that I can try a temporary bypass. Took out resistor block, it seems ok, voltages check out. Turns out the resistor block is not a resistor block.. It is a large aluminum heatsink with a black transistor module fastened to it. Take the tandem wire connectors off before removing the module. The heatsink is held on to the housing by 3, 1/4 in screws. You don't need to undo these. There are 3, 5/16 in screws that hold the housing to the blower assembly beside the 3 smaller screws. 4 wires on the tandem connector, 3 on one connector, 1 orange one on the other connector. 1) Orange - power + always on, even when the car isn't 2) Purple - to the fan motor + 3) Grey - control wire + to -, variations translate to variations in the purple wire from 6 to 14 volts 4) Black - ground - Though the voltages check out, they don't generate enough current to turn the motor. A manual twist of the blower motor shows that there is a small amount of current going through. Diagnosis: blower controler brick is toast. - so�.I took it apart and was impressed with the contents. Nicely put together with that snotty gel that IBM used to use in its early mainframe computer chip casings. Noted what appeared to be 2 large surface mount Transistors and one smaller one. I mangled the circuit board during the take-apart and that gel was giving me the heaves so I didn't try to map out what the circuit was doing. Possible hack? Resistors-only are out since the fan would always be on, even when parked with engine off. If you want to manual switch this though, substitute an old halogen headlight for the control block, it generates heat too for the defrost aid. - make sure it doesn't touch any of the plastic inside though. And replace it with a real brick as soon as you can. To replace the solid state devices, there looks to be 3 of them, you will need to design the circuit to handle 20 amps at 12 volts Or 240 watts. (although I was able to get the fan motor going pretty fast with a 1 amp trickle charger) If you can mount them on the aluminum heat sink in the old brick you should have plenty of cooling though since is sits in a direct path of the fan output. The part number for this module is DELCO 16061602 with an additional number STK6994J. Appears to be made in Japan. One other note, this module sits inside the vent system at the bottom and is prone to having water sit on it from the air-con. Since the orange wire is always on, the water can cause the connector from the brick to the orange wire to crystalize and break. (It is a brass or copper connector). If this happens, and the module is still OK, you should be able to dig down and find some viable copper to resolder a new connector on.

Did you check the blower relay? You seem to know very much about electronics. Sometimes k.i.s.s. is easier.

Doesn't a 94 Buick have Throttle Body Injection? Try running injector cleaner through the fuel system first. As always, follow the manufacturers recomendations.

Take out the two (7mm) screws under the dash/above the speedometer. Open up that little compartment above the ash tray Open the glovebox See the little piece of lower trim to the right of the glovebox? That needs to come off as well. Do that by pulling that whole piece towards you. It is held on with metal clips Now put the car in 1st gear (e-brake on) and tilt the wheel down Start pulling the dash cover off...it is held in with those metal clips...all the way across. Scary, but it will come off. I don't remember if you need to remove the lower panel under the steering wheel, but if you do it comes off with a tug towards you. You will see the screws that hold the radio on, they are the same size as the ones you took off above the cluster. Once you have the large piece off and in your hands, WATCH OUT for the nasty oil-foam around the backside of the AC vents. If you get it on anything or you....it will make a mess for sure.

even if its got bad wires or plugs it would run but run ruff or with a miss!!!! so check-- crank sensor, ignition module, ignition coil, or throttle position sensor..

Unfortunately not. It's better to make sure the tank is pretty empty though because you have to drop the fuel tank to get at it. It's not just a pump in the tank there is also a sending unit and you have to be careful not to damage it. While you have the tank off you could always remove the rear seat and make your own once the tank is out you just need to gat a Rubber seal to place in the hole and also a asphalt seal that you put on top of the pump then once you put the plug in it makes a seal. This way you dont have to remove the tank again. When lowering the tank be careful not to kink the lines as they are plastic. You will need to buy new clips to seal the connections and also be careful not to lose the springs that sit in the lines that make the seal with the clips.

As a side note you may want to change the fuel filter that sits on the frame rail on the left side. As there will be no fuel pressure once you remove the tank. But its always a good idea to release the pressure by unscrewing the cap that covers the valve that sits on the fuel rail under the hood.

Hope this helps.

The fuel pump relay on a Buick Roadmaster is typically located in the under-hood fuse and relay center, which is usually situated near the battery. To access it, you'll need to lift the hood and remove the cover of the relay box. The relay itself can be identified by its label or diagram on the cover. Always consult the vehicle’s manual for specific details related to your model year.

The low coolant sensor on a 1995 Buick Roadmaster is typically located in the coolant reservoir tank. It is usually positioned near the bottom of the tank, where it can detect the coolant level. To access it, you may need to remove the reservoir tank from the vehicle. Always consult the vehicle's service manual for specific details and procedures.

Yes

inside fuel tank

just google impalass and go on the forum there all codes are ready and available or hit aBuick forum

Engine Component Location.

Rear Of Engine, Near Distributor Module

Applicable to: Brougham

Engine Component Location.

Rear Of Engine, Near Distributor Module

Applicable to: Caprice, Custom Cruiser & Roadmaster w/5.0L/V8-305 & 5.7L/V8-350

Drive Train.

Rear Of Engine, Near Distributor Module

Applicable to: 5.0L/V8-305 & 5.7L/V8-350

it didnt 1994 was the first year

23 gallons

not any 2010 Buick Roadmasters,the last year any were built was 1996.

5

First find blower moter unplug wireing harness vse voltmeter to test supply end of wireing harnes for voltage if there is voltage replace motor (make sure your fan is turned on when doing this) if no power go to your local library and find the wireing diagram for the HVAC start at blower moter and follow it back to power source this will tell you what componets E.G. relays and other switches. are in line test each one tell you find the culprit. On my 96 the blower motor is under the dashbehind the glove box

sure will.

raise front end of car- use jackstands if lift is not availble. remove two bolts securing lower part of front shock to the lower control arm . remove nut securing the top of the shock to the frame. remove shock through hole in lower control arm. install new shock in reverse order.

on my 94 buick road master i can drive it but it cuts off for no reason

Make sure that there is power getting to the ac clutch when the switch is jumped. If the power is there then the clutch is bad and needs to be replaced.

I have this same problem. Presently I pull fuse 13 to shut off the motor and then disconnect the negative battery cable. If I am going to be using the car within 2 or 3 hours I leave the cable connected and just pull the fuse. I am told that I need to have a new tumbler lock put in. The steering wheel needs to be pulled and the air bag disassembled. Sounds expensive to me! I am trying to get someone to bypass the lock and put in a pushbutton starter.

If it doesn't "Ping" excessively under load should be OK