Buick Roadmaster

acetone,gloves and plenty of fresh air.

the ignition control module is located under the distributor cap behind the engine block i had to remove the fuel injection from the top of my engine then i had to lay across the engine to reach the screws on the distributor cap. There are 2 screws one toward the front of the distributor cap and one directly across from that behind the distributor cap the second one is hard to get to i had to use a socket wrench with a extension and feel my way behind the distributor cap to line up the socket with the screw. They are small screws and its easier to get to them if you draw a diagram of which spark plug wire goes on which post on the distributor cap or refer to a service manual for the correct firing order for the plug wires then remove the wires. After removing both screws from the distributor cap take the distributor cap off and the ignition control module is right where you can see it it has two small bolts in it and three wires connected to it. Remove the wires and screws and it comes right off the hardest part is manuvering the socket wrench behind the engine to remove all the screws. I also changed the rotor which is the plastic piece on top after you remove the distributor cap it just pops off if you pull it up

If the fuse keeps blowing, there is a short somewhere. Since the dash and tail lights both go through the headlight switch, I would check the wires from the switch connection all the way to the tail lights, and the dash lights. Somewhere, a wire is crushed to ground or something like that.

Make sure your switch is property connected and is a good switch!

Good luck!

If the fuse keeps blowing then there is a short somewhere in the wiring. The best thing to do is recheck the wiring on the wiper motor, switches, and relays.

how do you change a heater core on a 1995 buick roadmaster?

You need a good manual. helminc.com sells the factory GM service manual set over the internet. The heater core is difficult to change in this model. You have to remove a lot of the dash to get at all the screws that hold the cover in place. After that, it's a cinch. Basically, there are seven screws in the cover that is located under the dash, on the passenger's side. All have to be removed. If you can find them all without removing the dash, great. If not, there are several panels that have to come off to get to the screws. Once the screws are off, the core is exposed. There are two small screws securing it to the firewall. After removing the hoses from the engine-compartment side of the firewall, then you can pull the core out of the housing and replace it with a part available from the major "big-box" stores for approx. $50 or so. Be sure to bleed the air out of the system when adding back the spilled coolant. oh, and BTW, when removing the core itself, it is advisable to have a large towel spread under the core so that the coolant that will inevitably spill from the core won't soak into the carpet. Good luck, and allow lots of time to do this, as well as some extra "cuss" time for the stubborn bolts and hoses.

Remove one at a time to determine which each controls

It should be on the passenger side 2 feet in front of the rear tire mounted toi the inside of the frame

Carefully. To be honest, you need a spark plug socket, a socket wrench to fit the spark plug socket, and a 3inch socket extension. You will have 4 spark plugs on each side, sadly, 3 are somewhat difficult to reach. Only do 1 plug at a time, so as not to lose the firing order (car most likely wont start if its wrong). I recommend starting on the driver's side as they're they easiest to get. simply pull off the boot to the spark plug you want, then fit your SP socket to the plug and attach the wrench, hold firmly with one hand to the back end of the wrench and twist anti-clockwise with the other hand (if you fail to hold the wrench end with the one hand you may break off the plug and have a much more difficult time getting it out). Once removed, examine the spark plug for any unusual wear (can be a good indicator of how your engin is doin, albeit running hot, burning oil, etc.). Typical wear is a faded white with minor tarnish. Insert and hand fasten the new plug, refit the boot (be sure to feel it "snap" into place) repeat for each plug. By the way, the hardest ones to get (In my opinion) are the rear driver (furthest to the rear of the car, rear passenger, and front passenger (most difficult because of the altenator, which can be done without removing). Also, if you see metal on the outside of a plug, on the boot, that is the heat shield, it pulls off easier than the boot, but be sure to put it back on after replacement of plug. A small mirror is recommended for those hard ones, such as a wife's compact.

It is a green one...in the 2nd row from the right I think. I had a blower moter relay put in mine this spring. sorry mine is a 96. It wil tell you on the the door to the fuse box or in the owners manual

could be your temperature controls are stuck. a vacuum or cable operated flapper that closes off the heater core when a/c is in use, or allows cool outside air in. it is under the dash where the air comes out by the passengers feet, sometimes you can move the levers by hand if the cables are stuck

Just once it ran out? The '94 buick roadmaster uses an in tank fuel pump, and uses your cars fuel as lubricant for the fuel pump. There is a possibility when you ran out of gas, the pump was starved of it's lubricant and went kaput.

The contacts in the dimmer switch, on the steering column, may be burned from the headlamps being on all the time. The switch has to be replaced. First check the low beam lamp filaments with an ohm/multimeter for continuity.

Buy the Chiltons or Haynes manual. It will walk you through the process.

A starter can go bad for many reasons. There could be a loose connection that eventually burns it out. A chipped tooth on the flywheel can damage it. Or it could just go bad with age.