Buick Roadmaster

The head has to be removed on the 1993 Roadmaster to get to the gasket. You will need to remove the intake, exhaust manifold, and valve cover then unbolt the head to remove it. Check the head for warpage while it is removed.

When the system pressure falls below a certain point it cuts off. Your pressure is drifting around the cut off point. A couple of cans of refrigrtant from Pep boys will cure it but if it reoccurs then you have a leak.

I just had this problem last week with my '96 Roadmaster! You must first verify that the primary fan is working. To test it jump start it with the battery. If fan motor runs, the next step is to find somebody who has a scanner that has the ability to turn the primary and or secondary fan on through the PCM (computer). If the fan or fans can't be activated, the PCM has to be replaced and reprogramed. The least expensive way is to obtain a rebuilt PCM and have it reprogramed at a auto parts store that is capable to do this. It will set you back about $50 to $70 for the PCM and another $70+ for the programming. Hope this helps. Chris

According to the Haynes manual, the firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

if this is the wagon, then yes of course the rears fold down. Im not sure about the sedan. Not sure about the speakers....sorry. To get out the rear speakers sorry to say is a pain their is only 2 ways. One is to take out, not kidding the rear seats and remove the shelf. The only other way is to get in the rear and unscrew the screws backwords. Sorry GM did not think this through. To get out the stereo is rather simple just look at the dash and feel for the screws and take all of them out and remove the intire dash face plate. And the seats do not fold down this would be cool thou.

Yes. There were no engine options, the LT1 was the engine.

Probably from a lot of reasons but mostly from a busted air compressor, faulty wiring, no more freon, or a broken fuse.

front should be 4x6 in the doors 6x9 in the back deck u have to remove the back seat with star bolt the back brake light in window and the cover to get to the back deck

drop the gas tank

I added coolant and after 9 hours and two 25 mile trips the light turned off.

yea

i would dare say u have a dead short or ground problems or wire rubn with brake wire

assuming the front door,you will need a Phillips screw driver and a door panel removal tool or a blunt thin flat bar about an inch wide for prying the panel away from the door frame. begin by feeling carefully along the lower carpeted area several inches from the rear edge of the door and under the arm rest you will feel a depression about 1/2 inch diameter, there is a Phillips screw behind that, the covering is likely already slit to use a screwdriver to remove this screw. next remove the Phillips screw in the plastic panel that surrounds the door opening handle,now while holding the handle open, carefully pull the plastic part towards you and rotate it 90 degrees and you will be able to lift it up and slide it off the door handle, if you have a stereo speaker there the wire has a connector about 6 inches from the speaker, disconnect this wire and set it aside. each end of the door pull strap is flexible, pry it carefully away from the door to expose a large Phillips screw at each end remove each screw. put some masking tape across the pull handle to keep it from flopping around or getting broken, the plastic that holds the ends in is delicate. Put your window all the way down(it will make it easier to remove the panel) there are 6 plastic press fit connectors that push into holes in the door, pull the panel out slightly to see or feel where the connectors are, pry carefully with the tool close to the connector, take your time if you pull to hard you may break the plastic that holds the connectors to the panel. after you have loosened the connectors pull the bottom of the panel towards you and lift straight up on the panel it should lift up enough to remove the lip that rests on the top of the door, now you can reach up under the arm rest at the front of the panel of switches is a tab that pushes towards the switches and releases the switch rack from the door panel, pull the rack up to where you can disconnect the the blocks of wires from the back of the rack there are 4 different connectors. disconnect the main speaker and you should have the door panel removed.

may be Opti-Spark distributor, which is known to fail early. get it diagnosed by a mechanic before you spend 600 dollars on a new one

Low freon

I need to know how to check the anti lock brake to get the light off. New brakes from and rear were installed and light is still on. I some one knows who to trouble shoot this or how to check it, please let me know.

two

180 hp

on the rear of the intake manifold on the drivers side

If you aren't a master mechanic, take into the dealer and get them to do it. They will just hook it up to a computer and disable them digitally. If you are a mechanic, use the obd1 to disable the auto power locks. alternatively you could disable the power supply to the auto locks making them manual lock.

Disconnect the battery. Remove the alternator belt. Disconnect the wiring on the alternator, then unbolt and remove the unit. Bolt the new alternator in place and connect the wiring. Install the belt and connect the battery back up.

If the old oxygen sensor is no longer functioning properly and you replace it with a new one you will certainly save quite a bit of fuel.

The heater core may be plugged. Flushing it may help. Disconnect both heater hoses from the engine, fabricate a fitting to attach a garden hose to one of the hoses, direct the other hose into a pail, gently turn on water and flush it until it runs clear then swap hoses and reverse flush until clear. Reattach hoses to engine and refill reservoir.

Yes they will fit cause i have a 92 roadmaster and they fit perfect

Ouch! It is behind the water pump, next to the crankshaft. It is not a cheap replace ($500). The water pump must be removed and the coolant replaced.