Cadillac DeVille

i have a 1990 casillac sedan deville with a 4.5L V8 that I bought 8 months ago with only 98xxx origional miles on it. Shortly thereafter the service evgine soon light comes on and dsince I am a service tech I take it by work on my day off and ron the OBD1 on it and it came back with a code for the map sensor, that took all of 5 min and I thought all was well. Then about 4.5 months ago the light came back on. I checked it out again and it came back as an O2 sensor downstream. Then one day out of the blue it starts stalling out when you are sitting at a red light, then about 3.5 weeks ago it went totally crazy and would stall out while still going down the road at 30-40 miles an hour. You just shift over to N and it would fire back up, then shift back into drive and continue on your way. Finally I just couldnt take it anymore and took it to this real good drivability guy that I know. We talked and agreed that it wasnt breathing right from one end or the other so he sent me to this exaust shop to pressure test the cat. They said it should be between 2.5 and 3.5 and it was at 6lbs. of backpressure, enough to need to deal with it down the road but not my major problem at the moment. I take it back to the drivability guy and after 3.75 hours he comes bach and tells me that its my fule injectors on it, that my #2 cylender injector is shorted out electrically and wont fire at all ant that the #1,3,6 were shorting out intermittantly and missfireing and that that was what my problem was. I found some good rebuilt injectors and changed them out and cleaned the fule rails and was sure all of my problems would be gone. That was sunday, and here it is Tuesday and I am still having significant problems. Here are the current symptoms: It has a slightly high idle in Park, a OK idle in Neutral and a very high pulling idle in OD. To come to a stop at a light you have to use way more brakes now than before, and while stopped at the light it is as if the idle is so high that you have to fight to keep the car stationary and you can be going down a straightaway that is flat or slightly inclined and the car will accelerate without your foot on the gas. Yet with all of that it seems to be significantly lacking power. When at 50-60 going down the highway it doesnt have much in the way of passing power and when you do put your foot all of the way into it it shifts back and forth very roughly between what I think is 2 and 3. Then today I stoped in to get gas and when backing up to the pump it stalled out again 3 times. I kind of accredited it to low fuel and went in and put 10 gallons into it and left the gas station. The road that I was on was a decient hill but only maybe a 4%grade and there was no power at all it was struggling to do 2mph and kept stalling out at that. After taking 25min to cover 130 yards I finally got to a sidestreet and turned off and costed to a stop on a flat spot in the road. I checked to make sure that my fuel lines into the fuel rails were tight and that the injectors and rails were well seated and secure themselves. Eveerything looked good there was no fuel smell, I got in and it started right up and drove fine the rest of the day. I tried checking it for codes again and nothing. When the guy did the diagnostic on it he checked the spark and the compression and said that everything looked good. I dont know if it could be a TPS or the whole throttle body or the fuel control moduel. What do I need to check into next?

It is on the drivers side of the rear cylinder head.

to remove the water pump on the 94 caddy sedan deville with the 4.9 engine first remove the round brace that runs over the top of the battery---then remove the battery and the windshield washer revivor take a pad of paper and draw a picture of how the belt goes on----very important that you get this correct. then remove the belt by releasing the pressure with 1/2" breaker bar--there is a square hole for it on the tension adjuster---at this point you really should power wash the area very well----it makes it a lot easier job.you may have had to loosen the bolts on your water pump pulley now or prior to removing the belt---mine was broken off ---now remove all of the bolts and burrsaround the outside of the pump---there are also some bigger burrs in the middle of the pump ---check very carefully to be sure you have them all out---now with a couple of pry bars gently pry on the pump watching closely to be sure that you have all of the bolts out now spend whatever time it takes to clean very well the engine ---much more area than you think you need to I used ametal scraper for the bigger stuff and finished with a razor blade---now (I used the blue permatex gasket maker) apply the material to your water pump and put the gasket on it----coat the engine with the same material and slide the water pump into place---holding it in place start (not tighten) all your bolts---you may have to use a small punch to align the gasket ---now gently tighten all of your bolts in secquence so as not to get too much pressure on any one bolt--you really should have the torque setting and use a torque wrench at this time---now install the pulley--also should be torqued.....install your belt... and replace your wasaher rev. and battery replace the brace and now wait whatever time your gasket material says to wait for it to setup----mine was quite a few hours...so I just waited until the next evening and refilled..ran it refilled and watched for leaks ......using surgical gloves helps to keep you cleaner and really arn't to bad to work in I went through about 6 pair on that job and actually got it all done in one evening and refilled it the next nite

Usually at engine end of upper radiator hose in housing

NO! Just check the spark plugs; the fuel pump.

If you look on the right side of the parking brake it'll be a metal lever. But you have to get down and look then just push it with your finger but be careful cause it release fast

UPDATE:

For older DeVilles the lever is to the left about 3 inches from where the pedal should be when it's released but as the other write mentioned be VERY CAREFUL as it returns to its original position extremely fast.

yes they can just check....... i have a 99 deville

If the motor is a Northstar 4.6L, than the starter is probably under the Intake Manifold. I just changed mine and it took 1 hour. Only remove the 4 inward intake manifold bolts. You may need to loosen other things to help left it up high enough to get to the starter. You won't have to replaced any gaskets.

Smells like rotten eggs?
Lack of power on acceleration?

Cadillac does not use inertia/reset switches.

97 deville theft system problem

20L of 50/50 mixture DEXCOOL plus water mixture

Hold in the off and warmer buttons on your air conditioning.. and it will throw up error codes on the LCD panel that shows how much gas you have.

Caddilac did that for a couple years, somewhere around 1953 - 1955. ================================================= Cadillac had the gas cap behind the left tail light from beginning of the "fishtail" in 1948. This same location served until 1956. In 57 and 58 the fish tail tail light was gone, but the cap was still beneath the left tail light. In 1959 the filler location changed to a central location above the bumper which remained until 1960. After this I don't remember, but some time around or prior to 1964 it was moved under the rear tag in the center of the bumper. In fact I think even prior to the "fish tail" the filler was behind the left tail light.

Its located on the firewall... it is just sticking out, it has a 3 wire connection to it as well as a vaccum line coming from it.

4t80e or a 4t60e which ever the dealer put in.

They say it is a dealer after market car.

It is the round pump that you will see under the cowling in front of the left tire. It is approx 6 in in diameter.

The oil capacity for a 1989 Cadillac Deville is 7.5 quarts. It is important to not fill the Cadillac Deville with too much oil.Ê

Go to your local public library and check out a Chilton or Hayne's Repair Manual for your vehicle. You will find the procedure on how to manually retrieve the trouble codes (run the self-diagnostic test) and what each code means.

Fuse 11 Body

Illuminated Entry

Illuminated Vanity

Body Cigar lighter

Body Lamps

Door Locks

If you mean the warning light, This is done with a scan tool with the appropriate program. It should be noted however, that the light will turn on again if the problem is not located and fixed. If the horn also doesn't work as well as the cruise control, my money would be on a bad clockspring. The clockspring located in the steering column provides ground for the airbag,horn and cruise control.

Unset the light bulb sockets from the fixtures in the bumper.

Drop the bumper with the 8 bolts holding it to the 2 car mounts from underneath.

Once the bumper is off, you see the bolts and screws for the plastic fillers my bolts look slightly yellow.

I'll let you know about the fronts next weekend but I'm pretty sure the the "L"s under the headlight only require one to remove the chrome frames around the lamps and those behind the bumper are accessible from under the car without the need for removal of the front bumper.

Liquid wrench is your friend.

You may replace the bushings by pressing them out. GM would rather you not know this!!

A person may be able to visit a Cadillac dealership for a Cadillac Deville diagram. An auto parts store may also be able to give out a diagram for the car.