Chevy Camaro Z28

< intake > 13,5,2,10

Begin by removing the oil from your 1999 Chevrolet Camaro oil pan. Remove the oil pan retaining bolts. Remove the oil pan gasket and clean the surface. Reverse the process to install the new oil pan.

there are about 3 special tools required to do this job. It includes removing the steering wheel, horn assy., and the spring loaded center support.

Probably a sticking lifter; put in a can of RISLONE every time you change oil for the next few times; that should do it if it is just a minor problem. A chirping noise can also be a defective drive belt. I haven't heard of a chirping noise before, but I've heard of lifter tapping. If it's just some light lifter tapping, add some Lucas oil stabilizer next oil change. This is really good stuff that adds extra lubricants and protectants to the oil for better engine performance and durability. Adding this to your oil should take out any light lifter noise or tapping. I run this in my 94 Z along with full synthetic Mobil 1. They make the Lucas oil stabilizer in synthetic as well. Hope this helps you out.

Try clicking the e-brake on the first notch. This is common in Gm vehicles.

To disable the auto-headlight feature on your Camaro: There is a light sensor in the dashboard, just next to the red security light in the vent area of the center dash panel that detects light. This sensor must be disabled to turn off this feature. Using a flat blade type tool, carefully pry up the plastic dash panel just to the left and right of the oval vent area in the center of your dash panel. This section is held in place with Velcro fasteners. Be careful not to apply too much pressure when prying and do not raise this part of the panel up more than about two inches or you may risk cracking the panel. You can ease some of the tension by prying up the dash panel on either side by about eight inches. There are plastic snap type connectors holding the panel in place so be careful not to break any of them. You need only enough room to slip your hand inside to reach the sensor and remove it. Once the dash panel is raised, you will see the sensor sitting near the red security light. Pull up on the sensor to free it from its mount, then disconnect it from its harness. Once disconnected from the harness, push the sensor back into its mount so it will be there if you decide to re-enable it later and it won't get misplaced. The connector on the wiring harness will have a receptacle to accept the two pins from the sensor. Take a common paper clip and using the smaller end of the paper clip and wire cutters, cut off about 3/8 of an inch of the paper clip from either side of the little bend end. This little u-shaped piece will now insert directly into the connector of the harness where the two pins of the sensor went before it was removed. This will now provide continuity through the connector, telling the computer that there is outside light all the time and disabling the auto-on feature. Your head lights will now come on only when you turn them on. Place a piece of electrical tape over the exposed paper clip wire to keep it from touching anything metal then tape the end of the harness to the dash board so it does not flop around and rattle. Carefully replace the dash panel.

*** I'd also like to add (I'm not the same person who added the above answer) that there were no 2003 Camaro's. 2002 was the last year of the Camaro before the most recent Camaro's came out. ***

it says low traction

worst case, transmission is slipping and its turning before the gear catches. try lucas transmission stop slip if so. also you could need motor mounts, if your mounts are bad when the transmission goes into gear it moves the engine first and will also make a thud type of sound. take the car to your local tech and have them inspected.

A Chev 350 uses hydraulic lifters to keep the valve lash adjusted correctly and minimize lifter noise. Intermittent lifter noise is almost always the result of oil pressure problems. Make sure the oil pressure isn't dropping and that you have sufficient oil to for the oil pump to pick up and pump through the oil journals. Another possibility is that you may be "foaming" when the engine RPM goes too high. If you're pumping foamed oil, the lifters won't function properly. Foaming is partially caused by high RPM, but if the oil viscosity is too light, that too can contribute. If you're running a 5 W 15 oil, you might want to consider a slightly higher viscosity, but don't go too high.

everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and a professional shop manual should be available at the library in the reference section for FREE...make copies of the right pages and fix your vehicle like a PRO! :) good luck Dave :) there are plenty of reasons. you just have to read the code, correct the problem, and then reset the OBD. If you have taken the cats off your exhaust system it tends to do that, or it could be the vacuum line to the distributor has a leak or has come loose.

Yes Very Hard On This Engine240 Degrees Fahrenheit seems excessive. I have seen some engines run as high as 220, but for this engine I would think 240 is above the normal operating temp. I would perform a complete cooling system service including replacing the thermostat, checking the water pump, cooling fan, flushing the system, and cleaning the exterior of the radiator fins.

Yes, it can be very harsh on the engine. What you can do is order a temp. relay for Summit Racing Equipment. This relay will start the cooling fans before 240. Which will keep you on the road that much longer and protect your engine from blowing.

It is located on the side of the engine block. It actually screws, with the assistance of a wrench, into the block and has a black plug on the end of it. To be more specific, its on the "back" of the engine, which is on the drivers side of it if your looking at it from the front of the car. It screws right into the cylinder head, not really the block. Its under the air intake tube and some various hoses.

The most probable answer is: Coolant is not flowing through your radiator. Coolant is low/empty, radiator is smashed or clogged, but most likely the thermostat was not installed correctly or has failed. BUT - if any of these were true you would also overheat in stop/go, 30 mph traffic. If you can drive all day at 30mph stop/go and not overheat, look at the next answer.

Another answer: The automatic transmission is slipping in 3rd, creating a lot of heat at highway speeds. If you can see gray or sooty tranny fluid on the dip stick, keep driving it until your clutches burn and get a new 4 speed (200 4R or 700 R4). Don't rebuild the stock 3 spd.

Just FYI, at 55 mph the fan isn't doing anything anyway. And I can't believe it's really "only" at 55 mph. For example, if it started over heating at 55 mph and then you slowed to 25 mph stop and go driving, it would cool down?

fan shroud not installed,thermostat in backwords,air flow blocked.

If your car is an automatic like my 78, the only definite solution I know to this common problem is to trade in your transmission for one with overdrive. You can notice that the car won't overheat at the low rpm's you encounter on most surface streets and then when you get on the freeway, you hit 4000 rpm and almost blow up the engine in the slow lane. Personally, I'm going to take out that automatic and put in a five speed manual. Ultimately the investment should pay for itself with the fuel economy you'll probably get, not to mention that a three speed automatic tranny will almost definitely just burn itself to dust in the modern world anyway.

i had lot of different years if you replace the clutch fan with a streight fan it will over heat at a high rpm due to the blades streighting out

I had a 86 TA, the air dam would drag and came off the car, I didnt think anything of it so at 55 or higher the car would over heat, make sure the air dam is attached that runs along the bottom of the car. air dam under car missing is 100% ypur problem.at higway speeds air goes around radiator,need lower spoiler to divert air to radiator g

Break the lugs loose on the wheel on the side to be replaced. Jack up the car and remove the wheel. Take off the rear differential cover and drain out the gear oil. Get a wide pan cause it makes a hell of a mess. You'll need to get a new gasket and about 1 1/2 quarts of new oil, and also limited slip additive. Take off the bearing caps from the differential. (2 bolts per side I think, if I remember right they're either 13 or 15 MM, I'm going from memory here.) You'll also need to take out the support bearing in the middle, it's a little rectangular piece with (I think) an 8 MM bolt holding it in. When that's done, push the axle in towards the center of the differential until you can get the C-clip off of the axle (this is what retains the axle in the diff) It may or may not be necessary to remove the brake disc/drum assembly, I can't remember...Oh, and if the axle is bent like mine was, have fun, I had to cut the lug studs off with a hacksaw to get the axle in far enough to remove the C-clip...This took me about 3 hours to do by myself.

, if you need something else, email me at Acura_NSX_Sucks@yahoo.com

If it does this after run on hiway, it can be the tcc in the trans. If it does it all the time try cleaning the idle control solonoid and the inside of the throtle body.

Take the dist cap off. mark the base of the dist and engine block so you can put it back where it was. Mark where the rotor is pointing. Pull the dist out and mark where the rotor is pointing now to facilitate replacing the dist. Remove the gear off of the dist shft. notice there is an indentation on the gear corresponding to the rotor. pull the shaft out of the dist and then remove and replace the pick up coil and make sure the relucter ring doesn't hit when tightening the screws. Reverse removal.Make SURE th e rotor is pointing the same direction EXACYLY as it was when you removed it.

The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

depends on the year some adjust and some just torque all the way down... If they do adjust turn the motor one full revolution while watching the rocker arms. each of the rockers will go down then up.when one goes down the other will go up.then when they are both up back the rocker arm adjusting nut off until the pushrod spins . Tighten the nut slightly until the pushrod stops spinning then give the rockerarm nut one full turn.Do this by putting the ratchet handle at the 12:00 position and pull the handle around to the 6:00 position.then turn the ratchet back to the 12:00 position and pull down to the 6:00 position do this and that is one full turn.Then feel the rockerarm to see if it is tight.if it is still loose just give another 1/4 turn...Do this cold...And remove all of the sparkplugs...

The light mentioned is an indicator that the coolant level in the radiator is low.

i went to the gm dealership and they quoted me at $45 because of the chip on the key

No. Midwives attend normal, low-risk deliveries. If a client requires a cesarean section, a midwife will refer her to an obstetrician, a surgeon trained in medicalized childbirth. A nurse-midwife may attend the surgery, but in the same capacity as a nurse, not as the primary provider.

If a starter is able to crank the engine but it won't start you usually have either an electrical or fuel problem. It's also remotely possibly that it's compression. If an engine has proper fuel, spark and compression, it will start when you crank it. So your challange is to find out which part isn't working right. Start with fuel. Spray a little starting fluid into the air intake while someone tries to start the engine. If it starts briefly when you're spraying starting fluid, you probably have a fuel delivery problem. That could be injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, relay, fuse... who knows what until you check into it. If it doesn't start with starting fluid, check the spark. Pull a plug wire and attach it to a spare sparkplug and set the plug on a solid metal part of the engine. Have a helper crank the engine while you watch the plug. If you have a good spark, it might just be out of timing. In any case, you'll need to start isolating the problem. Find out which part isn't working then you'll know what to replace/repair.

You need a tune up. The spark plugs are running way to hot and need to be replaced.