Chevy Camaro

189in

I dont really understand this questions but a 1981 Camaro has 5 lug wheels.

Well for one you could have a cracked head. Or you could have a bad seal on your thermostat though that is were it could be coming from.

Average Condition - about $2K

Excellent Condition - about $4-6K

Perfect with low mileage, fully restored - ???

Money is the limit. IF the engine didn't happen to fit, you could have the engine compartment modified. A big block should swap right in with no issues... wiring, transmission, etc is a different story, but a big block will fit.

Read the book and I mean read it all!

From my experience you unscrew the plate visible from the front of the headlight, surrounding the glass and the whole unit drops out. some of the screws are hard to get to. but gentle bending of the tin surround will allow removal of lamp without removing the entire surround. ..careful not to scratch your paint.

There is only one fuel inlet. If you have a double pumper Holley then the one will branch off to two.

the ls1 motor holds 5qts of oil

RS was a premium uprgrade option and special trim package that was available only on Camaros. RS stands for Rally Sport.

Firing order for 1989 Camaro 1989 Chevrolet Camaro 5.7 liter V-8 VIN "8"

Answer 1 -8 -4 -3 -6 -5 -7 -2 rotor is counter clockwise.

specifications are 391 to 395 horsepower

There is a low pressure port on the right side of he engine bay. A the low side line comes out of the drier/accumulator. The drier is located behind the battery. You need to. Plug yourlow pressure connection. Into the port. Be careful and do further research before attempting or take to a pro

usually engine size. all Z28 are either 5.0 or 5.7 and the RS is either a V6 (3.8 I think) or a 5.0. If the Z and the RS both have 5.0's there will be engine enhancements such as throttle body injection in the RS where as the Z28 had tuned port injection, and other minor mods to the engine and suspension. In other words the Z28 was a little bit better and faster than the 8 cylinder RS.

160hp 2 crank

i have a 95 z28 it kept bogging out and dying at lower speeds. turns out it was the low rpm sensor on the distributor. hope it helps i have a 95 z28 it kept bogging out and dying at lower speeds. turns out it was the low rpm sensor on the distributor. hope it helps

$ COST to REPLACE the "TIMING BELT? on a 2000 Acura TL (*is recommended at and every 105,000 miles) (NOTE* some people under harsh driving conditions *extremely high and/or low temps., aggressive start and stop driving etc. may do it every 60K miles to be safe but probably 98% of drivers are fine with the 105K mile recommendation) Bottom line 1st; then details: The total cost to Replace your timing belt and NOTHING ELSE (*BAD IDEA SEE BELOW) should be about $40.00 for an OEM Timing Belt and probably at least 4-5 Hours Labor so timing belt replacement alone with labor should run you about $300-$325 **NOW this is a VERY Labor intensive Job and this TL has an 'interference engine' (let the mechanic worry about that) and the belt also drives your *WATER PUMP **WHICH SHOULD ABSOLUTELY BE REPLACED ALSO WHEN THE TIMING BELT IS. (**as well as obviously having the Honda Genuine Type 2 COOLANT -Flushed and replaced) It takes so much to get in there in the 1st place it is foolish not to have them do the Water Pump also! Why? Because those wear out too, and if your water pump goes so goes your car! No coolant if your old pump fails, shortly after guess what *NO More ENGINE!! Or at least many $thousands to rebuild or replace. An OEM water pump should run you a little over $100.00 OTHER SUGGESTIONS: -Replace the drive belts too: (1.Serpentine Belt (OEM about $20 and 2. Power steering Belt (OEM about $15) This is not very (PARTS OR LABOR) expensive relatively speaking and same concept as the water pump above. -There are 2 main oil seals in your enging 1. Rear MAIN Seal (*FORGET ABOUT THAT ONE IT IS ON THE TRANNY SIDE AND NOT EASILY ACCESSIBLE) *BUT 2. THE Front MAIN Seal is accessible when doing the timing belt and is a good safety measure cause if you ever have engine oil leak in the future odds are it will be from one of these 2 seals which can eventually wear over time like everyting else. (OEM Front main Seal about $8.00) SOME PEOPLE GO FURTHER, but unless something else wrong is specifically pointed out to you, or your mechanic feels strongly about something else in the process and explains and conveys that conviction to you (i.e bad thermostat, timing belt tensioner?, bearings in the pulleys? worn radiator cap, soft or brittle hoses/leaks etc. or ???? etc. this should do it!) Total cost for all of the recommended above at a reasonable mechanic: (PARTS OEM about $225 and Labor + about $450 TOTAL for ALL the recommendations above that should be done also (i.e Timing Belt, + Water Pump, P/S Belt, Serpentine Belt) an Most people & good mechanics, if not all would consider these *NECESSARY along with the timing belt- ***SO TOTAL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE (3 Belts, Water Pump, Fluids, & LABOR) APPROX. $625-$675 *BEST OF LUCK AND LET ME KNOW HOW IT TURNS OUR OR IF ANYONE HAS FURTHER INPUT HERE? Regards, Jev6000

200 horsepower and 225 lbs.ft torque

I know other makes use a torque, but no such luck with Chevy. Hydraulic, the most common, is 0 lash, then a half, to a full turn, after that. Or, the prope3r way is to go to max., vaccuum.

best way is to take it out from bottom/ but if you cant then pull it from top/ just take radiater out and it will come out

It is probably located on top of the valve cover on the right hand side of the engine.

You will need to remove the retaining ring from the top of your 1997 Chevy Camaro ignition switch. The ignition switch will slide out. Remove the wiring harness. Reverse the process to install the new ignition switch.

Auto? dipstick at rear of engine

Yes. You could get them from the factory with them.