Chevy Camaro

look on the sticker in the glove box for the code G60 if you got that code you got posi

The answer depends on the specific part. However the years 1982 to 1992 are called 'third-gen' in f-body cars and many parts will interchange across the entire series.

Passerger side of the engine compartment on the firewall Mr_Bond

5 bolts on a 4.75" circle, aka 5 x 4.75" (120.65mm)

did you try going to a auto store an buying a can to recharge it??

If it is able to be repaired "fish plate"
Put one piece of steel on either side of rotted section and weld the entire package

Considering the 1996 Camaro Z28 already has a 350, the answer is yes

67, and 68 camaro's had what is called a "radiused" wheel well. So, the sky is the limit, as far as rear width. However, what makes it work is the "offset" of the wheel. The center part of the wheel, where the lug nuts go, in relation to the outer rim itselft. Tire shops have a tool to measure exactely what offset you need to achieve your goal.........Chuck.

More than likely.... Tune up time buddy!

You do not have a governor, you have a Rev Limiter. At a preset RPM the computer cuts back on the fuel supply. The computer will have to be reprogrammed.

yes you have to buy a programmer and set the speed rateing for your tires and it will go up to 200

Vehicles with manual transmissions almost always have more net horsepower at the rear wheels. More power is siphoned off through the torque converter in an automatic transmission than through the clutch and pressure plate in a manual transmission, thereby giving you greater rear-wheel horsepower from a manual transmission. That being said, automatic transmissions shift from gear to gear faster than you are able to shift gears in a manual transmission, unless you are really, really good at speed shifting. :)

Inside the fuel tank. Unless there is an access panel in the trunk or under the rear seat, the tank must be removed. I had the same problem in a 95 Z (you need 35 psi if not your car will spit and spuder and be very hard to start especially after the engine has heated up and been turned off the try to restart and it will act like it is out of gas) and rather then spending several hundred dollars at a shop or hours removing muffler, stablizer bar and gas tank. I cut a three sided rectangluar hole about in the middle of the hump that is between the back trunk area and the back seat. You need to be EXTREMELY careful not to drill or cut into the tank (there is less then a inch between the sheet metal your cutting and your tank and lines) or any of the gaslines running up to the engine. Of course don't use a torch, I used an small air saw. You can crawl under the car and see where the gas lines go up to the tank (you'll have to look around the muffler) or get a picture of the gas tank (I went and looked at a tank in a junk yard and made a couple of measurements)the pump is mounted into the tank top with 4 or 5 small bolts and is just about centered left to right and front to back on that hump. I believe I cut about a 8" x 12" area, I only cut three side leaving the panel attached for easier re-sealing. Make the 12" cut in the front to back direction as the tubes running from the pump run towards the front of the gas tank and car and extend from the center of the pump 6 or 8 inches. After I replaced the pump I left everything opened and took it for a test drive to make sure there were no problems. After that I cut a larger piece of tin to cover the enter hole with about 1 inch extra all around and drilled holes and ran a wide silcone bead around the edge and pop rivited it down,throw back the carpet and your good to go. This only took about 1 1/2 hour to do the entire job including test drive. Hope this is helpful. *I had the same problem on my 95 Z28. Cutting the rear deck works really well. It's a tight fit though getting everything out if you don't disconnect the lines on the outside of the top of the tank. Also the replacement pump had a different high pressure output line than the manufacturer, do this connection had to be done inside the tank with not a lot of room for fat fingers(Good Times!!). Also the mountong bracket for the pump & level sending unit is hinged so disconnect your electrical connector first.

no.

it is in the fuel tank. you'll have to drop the tank to get to it, i believe it requires dropping the rear axel

check the fuses and relays

o2 sensor maybe

There is not an odometer cable. The odometer is driven by the speedometer. If the odometer is not working then you will have to replace the speedometer head.

Locate the steering column retaining bolts under the column and remove them. Drop the column down to access the switch that is mounted on top of column. There will be a rod that operates this switch coming from the lock. Disconnect the wiring harness from the switch and then remove the retaining screws and rod coming from the ignition lock. Simple as that. If you lost keys and want to replace lock, no use going through all that tearing up of die-cast metal just sign up with AAA. It is only $60 a year and they will have someone make a key for you and then you have the most important tool for changing the ignition lock. Since all kinds of posts are available on how to change the LOCK I gave the answer to the question asked and did not share lock replacement here...

What part of it is broken?

There was no SS camaro in 1992.

yes... some rs camaros came with a 305 and the only difference between the 267, 289, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, 400 sbc is the stroke and bore. the block itself is essentially the same.

Yes. The Engines themselves are identical. The 96 had an extra Cat Convertor and had OBD2 computer. The 95 however had the OBD1 connector (but ran OBD2 computer) which required quite the special hardware to read codes

All components that have to have fluids changed have the drain plug on the bottom of the particular component.

That's just your imagination.