Chevy Chevelle

Number cause is a vacuum leak. However, there are several engine tuning issues that can cause it.... Incorrect idle mixture, fouled spark plug, incorrect ignition timing or dwell. You name it. But I've found that sizable vacuum leaks cause it more often than any other single cause.

the name chevelle means true and loyal friend!she or he will never betray you and if he or she loves you, they will protect you with everything they have

Lift most of the weight off of the engine and take off the bracket. Then just replace it.

chiltons repair manual from 67 at the library.

Not without modification

Don't. Chevelles came stock with either 14" or 15" wheels from the factory. While you can certainly get 24's under there, it looks STUPID!!! The car will sit as high as a pickup truck. Bigger isn't always better. I've seen 18's look great on Chevelles. going bigger is fine, but TOO big, and you won't be happy with the way the car looks OR drives.

your best bet is to get a chiltons repair manual from the library or a lot of auto parts stores like autozone carry a version you can buy that will tell you how to change them.

You'll need to remove the trim and use a piano wire to cut the seal. Once the seal is gone, carefully push it out far enough to grab it and lift it out. It's best to have a friend help you with that one.

No. Bench seats were actually more common than bucket seats were.

No, they're 2 totally different bodystyles

They are 3/8-16 threads. The length depends on the bellhousing itself. They can be anywhere 1 1/2" to 2 1/2" long.

insert key into ignition and turn to accessory and get a pin and depress it into the hole by the key and pull the switch out and then you can unscrew the big nut off the switch.

intermediate sized car with a choice of engines from a 6 cyl. up to the biggest v8 of the day from GM.

If there is no adjustments on it you will have to buy a new lock from a chevelle website such as yearone.com.

It's on top of the brake pedal under the dash.

Look it up on ebay - thats a good reference.Depending on the overall condition, that will make a real big difference. I wouldnt try take a guess, but look what others are selling their cars for. if it is still original and all the numbers match - prob a good penny.

They are bolted to the underside of the hood and go through the rear hood vent. One small screw for each one.

If the tranny is empty you need about 12 qts. to fill it.

disconnect the battery and wait 5 minutes. Remove the air bag and disconnect any electrical connectors to the horn buttons or cruise control switches. Remove the 15mm bolt that holds the steering whell to the steering shaft. Partially reinstall the 15mm bolt and use a 2 jaw puller at the 12 oclock and 6 oclock positions to press against the bolt and break the wheel loose from the shaft. Once it has broken free, you can remove the puller and the 15mm blt and the wheel should lift off.

NO!!!! The Chevelle is a bigger car than the Nova and has a longer wheelbase, which means it also has a longer driveshaft. A 4 door Chevelle also has a longer wheelbase than a 2 door, meaning it also has a longer driveshaft. You CAN have a Chevelle driveshaft shortened to fit a Nova because the vokes are the same, but it would be cheaper and easier to just get the right driveshaft to begin with.

The value of a 1970 Chevelle varies wildly depending on the body style, model, and engine/transmission that was installed. Big block cars (super sports) are worth more than small block cars, which are worth more than six cylinder cars. 4-speeds are worth more than automatics. Two doors are worth more than 4 doors. Malibu's are worth more than standard Chevelles. The price range can be anywhere between around $1000 for a rough 4 door, all the way to the mid six figure for an LS6 (450 HP 454 super sport) convertible. Condition, and originality also matter... A LOT. So, without more info, it's really impossible to give you a better answer than that.

either remove the engine or lift engine up high enough to get to all the bolts on the pan and enough clearance to get it out from the suspension.

Depends on the type of knock. Rod or main bearing knocking is most likely excessively worn bearings, or a loss of oil pressure. "Pinging" is caused by over-advanced ignition timing, carbon buildup in the combustion chamber, spark plugs with a heat range that is too high, fuel with an octane rating that is too low, or an overheated engine. Hard to be more specific than that without any more information.

Yes they did. Some with automatic and 4-speeds.

Check under and behind the rear seat.