Chevy Impala

I replaced a RDB transmission with a RBN and the thing gives me some transmission codes. One code is for gear/speed ratio and other is for electrical malfunction. I have not been able to find an RDB transmission. LEt me know if you want to get rid of yours.

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This should happen automatically. Are you losing coolant, is the cooling system leaking somewhere? Have you just changed the coolant? Unless there is a leak, the system should purge by itself.

There is only one drain plug and it's on the bottom of the oil pan, just like in every other car around the world.

oil;lights are nicknamed idiot lights they only come on after the damager is done an idiot doesnot check oil reularly therefore the lights are not reliable at all

300

160-180* with 180* being the cleanest combustion with properly set timing and carburetor adjusted, just make sure it doesn't get above 200 because without full synthetic oil you run the risk of spinning a main bearing in one of these old small-block Chevy's.

That's coming from a mechanic that has been rebuilding 283's, 327's, 350's, and 400's for 20+ years.

I'm gonna be honest... the best thing might be to take it in to a shop. I don't know about this condition! If I did, I would have, quite simply, brought it to the dealer, or a certified GM Goodwrench technician. Costly? Maybe, but most of the cost is labor, not parts. So, with that, I'll say it again:

Bring It In.

there are bolts that go through the frame to the body that have to come out before you can raise the body off the frame, also all wiring has to be disconnected from the motor and the firewall.

There is one before and one after the catalytic converter.

inside the door latch, remove the trim to access

à l'intérieur du locket de porte, il faut retirer le trim de porte pour y avoir accès

Hand Tight then back off 4 turns - Done

Before you do the following, check your battery first! Our car did the same thing, all the electric stuff came on but it would not crank. It was the battery.

If any car cranks but won't start, it can be one of three general problem areas, namely, 1) a problem with air - not getting enough air usually, or 2) a problem with fuel, not getting enough usually, or 3) a problem with the ignition system not properly working. These three areas can be systematically investigated, one at a time. And, combinations of these problems can also occur. A few of the most common reasons a car might crank but not start include: It's out of gas, or has old or contaminated gas. It's flooded; too much gasoline has entered the engine and temporarily fouled the plugs plus made the air-gas vapor mixture too rich to ignite even if the plugs are not wet. If the car has not been run for quite awhile, the ignition comonents may be damp. All of the above can often be remedied by carefully spraying a little "starting fluid" into the carb then trying to start it up - be careful, don't smoke while doing this - the starting fluid is very volatile. But, this approach will often get you started. Good Luck! October 2008 Engineer in Michigan

Check the fuses.

I have 245/60-15 and its seems to be just right. I do get some rubbing during full tight tuns

About 2.8 inches at the minimum

more than likely a bad oil sending unit but you need to get it checked out to make sure.

no

To remove the cluster first you have to remove the side fuse box panel on each side to be able to access the screw on each side top corner and retaining clip.There are also two screws right in the instrument cluster area on the underside of the top dash(should see the two holes no problem).Now on the panels under the column there should be two,one black that you can simply squeeze the clips together and it simply pulls down.The other has two screws exposed once you remove the first panel ,remove those then pull on the other panel easy so as not to break the push in clips holding it. Now some people will say to loosen the steering column and lower it.I have found that if you disconnect the battery and remove the bezel around the key cylinder (use a small screw driver and pry gently ) then turn the key as to star the car and move the shift lever into its lowest position its less disassembling for you.Now just slowly and very easy pull the entire dash face plate out (its also held in by push in clips).When you have pulled it out you will see that the hazard button connection needs to be disconnected an laid off to the side .Once it is completely removed the instrument cluster is held in by four bolts one in each corner and wire connection on the top right side, installation is easy and quick from there.

If you have not replaced the fuel filter in the last 50,000 miles replace it. Also replace the spark plugs and plug wires if you have not done so. Of course replace the air filter every 30,000 miles.

The Chevrolet Impala did not exist in 1950. I think it was introduced in 1958. (I remember ta that the Impala had three tail lights on each side while other Chevrolets, like my family's Brookwood wagon, had only two. Prior to 1959, the top of the line Chevrolet model was the Bel Air. The Impala did come out in '58. The Bel-Air was top of the heap in '50. See: http://www.50classicchevy.com/1950-chevrolet-styleline-deluxe-belair.html

As to the question, "The factory price of a 1950 Chevy Bel Air was $1741.00."

TRANSMISSION LINE LOSSES

take off the right front tire. Straight in where the axle goes into the housing. Its right on top of the housing just a little to the left.

Glad to help.

Bill

5x5 or aka 5x127

c1 to c6