Chrysler New Yorker

Yes, the computer is the voltage regulator.

I have a 1993 Chrysler new yorker , i would only imagine it's in the same place. My relay had went out on it which prevented the turnsignals from working/flashing. The relay is located under the dash you have to remove the glove box , grab a flash light look up (about center of the dash near the top. Should be a round silver can just unplug it and replace it with the new one ( 3.00 part). And it will work.

Ok I just did this about 2 minutes ago, I had this open cause I was confused on how to do it too. First disconnect the battery, then take the top bolt off the alternator. Slip off the serpentine belt, you may need to use the tensioner pulley to do this. Disconnect the numerous small electrical wires going to the alternator and remember where they go. The bottom bolt is tough, but back it out as much as you can.The bottom bolt hits on a black bracket just behind it, so just loosen the black bracket. The bracket is connected with two bolts, I took off the bolt from the bracket right by where the alternator bolt hits and loosened the other one just enough to get it to move some, the bottom alternator bolt slides right out. Then just switch it out and reconnect everything else how it was. Make sure you tighten up the black bracket too. Then the hard part is getting the serpentine belt back on, not sure about anyone else but that is possibly the most dreaded task for my Chrysler. Even having just replaced the tensioner pulley it takes hours and is quite draining.

The car probably ingested water into the cylinders.When this happens it tends to bend piston rods and may cause bearing damage.Water does not compress like fuel and air.therefore the engine suffers.It can be fixed,it will need to be disassembled and inspected,it will probably need rebuilt.

its a real pain, first drain the cooling system remove the grille,headlights,core support,radiator,AC condensor,all belts and assemblies.you'll need a 3 jaw harmonic balencer puller to get the HB off. then remove the timing belt plate. mark where the belt is located on the sprokets. take the belt off by loosing the tensioner pully. then unbolt the water pump and replace it. its a good idea to replace the timing belt to while your at it.when that's done put it all back together. good luck!!!

Yes.

Open the glove box and pop off a cover.

VERY DIFFICULT.... radiator shroud. fan , serpentine belt and v belts must be removed.

I think that the crankshaft damper must be removed (tool 1023 used) also Timing belt right sidecover (stamped metal), left side cover cast metal and bottom cover behind crankshaft damper removed.. timing belt drives water pump.If belt broke, timing will need to be reset.

Dealer cost about $700 if timing was not affected. (orig belt in place and engine was running.) If engine turned over without timing belt in place valves could have been damaged........

Fuel pump relay fuse is under the hood drivers side next to air filter.

Yes. Most brake pads made contain asbestos; even to this day they still use it.

Should be on the drivers side of dash when you open the drivers door you can see the fuse compartment door . Open the door to see fuse locations and there are spares in there also.

OBD 2 is 1996 and later. The diagnostic plug is always under the dash on the driver side.

A Chryseler New Yorker weighs 3,587 lb (1,627 kg).

Location for sigil start for a 95.chrysler new

Chrysler does not use reset switches.

In my 88 its under the turn signal switch on the right hand side of Tue steering Collins. Its apparently easily broken off so can be overlooked. I use a pair of needle nose to pull mine out to shut it off when needed. Hope this helps.:)

No.

you cant it is in the factory wire harness an if it wont reset try unlocking an locking drivers side door with key an then hit remote button

If the speedometer works but the odometer does not, the odometer has failed.

V 6 is 1-2-3-4-5-6

Spark plug wires. There was one that had rubbed and wore thru.

The lower balljoint is pressed into the lower control arm.To remove the balljoint,you need to rent or buy a balljoint press kit.It makes it alot easier.The balljoint is connected to the spindle by a bolt and nut.Once it is removed you should be able to separate the Ball joint and spindle.The control arm is connected to the frame by two bolts to the crossmember.You may want to remove the brake caliper and hang it off to the side with some wire.remove the rotor to give you a better view.I suggest that you get a chiltons manual or equivelent to give you the finer details of this job.Be sure to use jackstands and work safely!!

I had to replace the right lower ball joint . I suggest you get the lower control arm I paid about 100 for one it has the ball joint already pressed in . and I did it with basic tools and a friend in about an hour .

Engine idling in park, pull the dipstick and read the level.

Anything is possible. It would not be a direct swap.

According to various publications, you can find it under the hood in a fuse box, or under the dashboard on the driver's side in a fuse box. However on the 1991 New Yorker I have been suffering with for years it is cleverly placed to the right of the instrument panel, top center inside of the dashboard. You must remove the glovebox, and then the glovebox mount which includes lower dashboard and ashtray. When this is removed you will see two sets of relays. Change the turn signal relay while you are at it to prevent another disassembly. I didn't see a reference to the specific model of Chrysler, but speaking from my own experience, I own a 1993 Chrysler Lebaron, and the horn relay is located on the relay panel beside the fuse box on the driver's side, but it is hidden from view so you won't be able to access it by removing the fusebox cover. You would have to remove the lower panel under the dashboard. The horn relay is the square shaped relay on the relay panel (the hazard flasher and time delay relay on that panel are round.) If you are troubleshooting a problem of the horn not working, the problem might not be the relay. In my case, the horn would not work, although the relay tested OK. So I started troubleshooting using the wiring diagram and discovered that the metal of the steering column was not grounded to to the chassis, therefore the horn button on the steering wheel could not ground to chassis ground and could not work. The way to check for proper ground is to look on the back side of the steering wheel behind the horn button. Remove the little protective cap you will find there to expose the screw that holds the horn button. Using an ohmmeter, touch one probe to that screw and touch the other probe to any bare metal under the dash to check for ground continuity. If there is no continuity, then the steering column is not grounded to the chassis and the culprit can be found by looking under the dash just to the left of where the steering column connects to the underside of the dash. There is a nut and a star washer holding a thin metal plate that is supposed to provide the ground contact for the steering column. My solution was to use a file to remove any corrosion or paint from the side of the star washer that contacts the metal grounding plate, as well as the nut that holds it in place. I also bent the grounding plate just enough to ensure that it would make contact with the metal under the dash when installed. Once I reinstalled the grounding plate, star washer and nut, I tested again for continuity with positive results and then pressed the horn button and it worked.