Dodge Stratus

The odometer is electric, no cable.

You can't.

a mechanic said you cant lubricate a 96 stratus there are no grease fittings

The only grease zerks are on the upper ball joints.

Red, 5 year, HOAT type. Not DEXCOOL.

It is located on right side behind the side kick panel in the front passenger's side.

Take of the front tire, there is a crescent shaped assembly with 2 hex bolts. !!!ensure that you take the cap off the master cylinder or you may rupture a brake line place a rag around the master cylinder as well to prevent a messy job!!! take off the bolts and pull the assembly forward take out the old brake pads and and inspect the rotors for extreme wear or pits if they are good you may continue if not you will need to get them resurfaced (not horribly expensive) then using the old brake pads and a C-clamp press the piston inward until flush with the assembly clip in the new brake pads and replace assembly and repeat for opposing side replace cap on master cylinder and pump the brakes.

It could be Camshaft Position Sensor. This was happening to me as well and when I had this changed it worked fine. You might have ran into a deep snow or high water and on Dodge this sensor is positioned low so it could have got wet.

5X100

If the check engine light is on, then the car is not fine. It may be seem to be running fine, but there is a problem. Damage can occur to the engine, and especially to the 02 sensor and the catalytic converter if the problem is not corrected. The light will be reset with a scan tool after the problem is repaired. There was a recall on the Camshaft sensor, that causes the engine light to come on. You will have to contact the dealer you bought the car from and see where to take the car for warenty work. daewoo's have over 100 sensors on them any of these could set a check engine light. loose gas cap will set a check engine light.could be anything, need to get it scanned to find out. if you unplug the battery all you will do is loose you radio and have to put the code back in, not clear the problem. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights

Cylinder #3 misfire

It's done with the "Transponder Key", it has a code that is used to unlock the anti theft. If you have a second key, try it. If you don't, the dealer will reset the system to work with a different key.

Not possible to answer.

This car came with several different engines that changed depending on model year.

"In the engine" is not the an acceptable answer.

On all engines that were in a Stratus, the oil pump is on the front of the crankshaft under the timing chain/belt sprocket.

How much does a 1999 Dodge Stratus car weigh?

There could be many reasons for the radio and power locks are not working such as a lose or broken fuse or the body control module is broke. You can check by trying keyless fob then checking the fob batteries and car battery. If all of those things don't work it is the body control module, get it fix.

All below are true, I would lean toward an O2 sensor. Take it to a independent garage and find out what the codes are for the Check engine light. 1 dirty or clogged air filter element. 2 emissions system not functioing properly . 3 fault in fuel or electrical systems . Have a mechanic check the PCV valve and the injectors, they should better tell you the problem. The first response sounds plausible. The EGR may also be at fault. An Independant garage is the right start to diagnosing it. The "Check Engine" light just means that the engine control computer has found a problem, and that you need to check the detailed diagnostic codes (or have your service shop check them). The bad fuel mileage is probably because the engine control computer is running the engine in a "safe mode" because it's no longer getting enough reliable data to run it normally. I had this same problem, fuel mileage dropped from about 35 mpg to about 25 mpg. In my case, the problem was an oxygen sensor, which had to be replaced. (Your specific problem may be different, although the computer's reaction makes the symptoms the same.) I replaced the sensor, the idiot light is now off, and mileage is back to 35 mpg. I've had two Civics, both of which eventually had the same problem (1988 CRX at 150,000 miles, and a 1997 EX 4-door at 90,000). Both times it was the throttle position sensor. You can buy an OBD-1 reader for $30 - used on older cars A OBD-2 reader cost around $200 They sell them at all autoparts stores. Check engine light comes on for an "emission system" problem only. I'll go along with the EGR, or the O2 sensors as a possiblity. And I agree with the "safe mode" interpretation as to why it runs fine now. Bottom line is get it to an independent repair shop that specializes in this, and have them fix it. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. I am sure I will revise this as time goes on, as it is an in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem with the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights

No, Dodge does not use inertia/seset switches.

The engine is locked up due to a failed oil pump. This isn't due to negligence, it's something that just happens. I know because it happened to mine '96 Stratus. You can buy a replacement engine for around $750. Any engine manufactured past April 14th of '96 until the end of 2000 will work for a 2.4L DOHC. I would recommend getting a 2000 model engine! I already had a new transmission at approximately 80k mi. and a head gasket at approx. 98k mi. on my car installed before the oil pump issue occurred at approx. 102k mi. After you get it fixed, wash it, sell it, & buy one of the following used Acura, Lexus, Toyota, Mazda which have high reliability. If you go with Nissan only the Maxima or Altima are very dependable. Also, you could get a Subaru Legacy or WRX if you can afford one. lets not leap to conclusions. This question is so vague since it doesnt describe what "stops running means" If you didnt have oil, like the previous person said, your engine would seize, youd overheat, probably hear a terrible noise and youd have to be towed to a repair shop. In that case, yea your engine is probably toast. But your question doesnt tell us anything. Is it a hypothetical question? I could list a million hypothetical answers. Ask thoughtful questions and you will get thoughtful answers.

It is in the bottom of the radiator but sometimes it is easier to remove the lower hose.

Check the side of the dash when you open your drivers side door.

P0454 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Intermittent. Remove and clean first if no change then replace.

i had a problem with this too so i got 20s but if u get a lift kit they will fit.iam gettin mine lifted i have a 2004 and factory its pretty low so the only way to get 22s on a stratus is to get it lifted.

Bring to a shop that has an ABS scanner to determine the problem

The vehicle speed signal comes form the trans computer via the output speed sensor on the front of the trans.

There is none as your Dodge is not equipped with an inertia switch.