Drywall

Yes.

eating it tastes horrible, but im not sure if eating it can hurt you so much...ive been ingesting a certain amount for 21 years as a drywaller and nothing yet lol.

You put the screw back in the plastic, screw it in for a few turns & then pull the rest of the molly bolt out of the wall. It will leave a big hole that you need to patch & repaint.

It's hard to say for certain, but most of the research that I've done indicates that gunite probably did contain asbestos in 1964, since it was used for internal insulation in many places (ships, shipyards, factories, etc.) until the mid-70s.

You might find more helpful material at www.asbestosnews.com, so definitely check it out!

Yes, mud is a compound .

Most truss systems are spaced 24 inches on center. Depending on the length, or load applied they will sometimes need to be spaced 16 inches on center. Trussed Rafters as advised by TRADA are now spaced at 600mm c/c.

I don't know if the pros recommend it, but I've used my orbital sander with fine (150 grit) paper. I attach my shop vac to the sander's output and even vent the shop vac out a window for a near dustless sanding job. You do have to be careful. Even light pressure on the sander can eat through the mud very quickly or rough up the drywall paper and tape.

If the damaged area is small then a skrim or jointing tape can be used, if the damaged area is large then it must be cut back to the joists, replaced, jointing tape applied then skimmed.

2 inches of floor

What I usually do is to first cut off any loose paper or dry wall that is there. Then I spread joint compound or spackle (depends on the size of the damage) over the damaged area. After the area is completely dry then sand the area with sandpaper and make sure the patch is flush with the surrounding area. If not keep filling in and sanding until it is. Then I usually use a textured roller with paint to blend the area with the rest of the wall. I hope this helps you.

It depends on the plant and what you want to accomplish with them. "Herbs" can mean little bitty ground-covers like thyme or great big hedge-size plants like lavender and rosemary. Are these herbs hardy in your area? If an herb isn't going to overwinter in your area, there's no real harm in crowding them in a bed to get a fuller look. On the other hand, if you're making a hedge out of plants that are hardy, you'll want to plant them according to the growers recommendation because eventually those plants will get so large that they'll fill in the gaps naturally. Long story short, there's no one answer to this question. For best results, talk to a nursery owner in your area.

Plaster will do the trick. I always buy the one that is ready-mixed.

Dead weight per square foot is calculated in the following fashion:

a = building weight

b = square footage of building

c = building dead weight/ SF

c = a/b

I'm not entirely sure. I wouldn't unless the hole gets bigger. In the case I would ask Someone who is good with plants.

XX is not a standard marking. I do not know what you are looking at specifically however; the Gypsum Association has a web site that I use a lot http://www.gypsum.org/. The most common marking for fire ratting is either TYPE X or TYPE C. Look at the GA sit or find the manufacturer site and look for their markings. If the manufacturer does not have a site, it is possible that the product is not listed and should not be used in a rated assembly. Contact your local Building Official or GA for moré information.

Yes you can. You must first paint over the old plaster with a product such as Eucoweld, which chemically adheres the new plaster to the old.

Yes. An urge to do so could also be the sign of a nutritional deficiency. Consume a multivitamin and a good diet and consult medical attention if you continue to have an urge to consume drywall.

You have a problem with the drywall. It is not a problem with the paint. Most likely it is moisture or some kind of contamination on the wall that is pulling it off the drywall. Another issue to consider is if you have too many coats on the wall the weight of all the coats of paint can cause stress and pull everything off. If the paint is not peeling everywhere and is just peeling in certain places the paint did not fail. (Paint does not choose where it will peel and where it will adhere).

If you want to paint over plaster it is important to let it dry thoroughly. This can take between five and ten days, and in some cases even longer. However, it will feel dry to the touch within a day or so.

In the room - sweep, vaccum, dust, wipe down the walls (use a just barely damp cloth for best results.

In a small area, a tack cloth is best.

Yes, but it's not as good as drywall primer, and will probably give less coverage.

You can buy drywall compound already mixed. If you don't have one, buy two putty knives (they're cheap) one small and one larger (for larger jobs.) If there are small holes in the drywall you can simply fill the hole with the drywall compound. You may need to give it a second application or even third application as the compound will shrink as it dries. When I apply it I am sure to make it even with the wallboard and clean up around the edges as this makes it easier to sand with a fine sand paper after. Let it dry over-night and then lightly sand with fine sand paper. For larger holes you will need to purchase a dry wall kit which includes a drywall patch to cover the area. Follow the directions in the dry wall kit which are pretty much the same as covering a smaller hole, you just need more of the drywall compound. The patch is needed to adhere the compound to the wall and to give it stability.

NO! An exterior rated primer must be used. Plus, choose a primer that is recommended for the surface you plan on painting.

That is not your best idea, most old interior furniture has old varnish or stain on it. The older furniture finishes were oil or alcohol based. Drywall primer these days is a latex (water) base and will not adhere.

Go buy some drywall mud and sandpaper from the hardware store (someone there will be able to help you if you're not sure what you need). Smear the mud over the hole until filled and let it dry (may have to do this more than once if it's a big hole), then sand it until smooth. Paint over the mud spot with whatever paint you used on that particular wall.