Drywall

Trim around a window just as a door is meant to cover the gap between the window frame and the wall material.

Usually trim is 2 to 3 inches wide so it should cover the bad drywall job fine.

Cut the trim at 45 degree angles at the top and terminate it at the sill. The small or thin side of the trim will overlap the window frame but not extend into the window area ( flush ), the thicker side will cover the space and should nail into the same wall studs as the window frame.

when you hang drywall, you have to tape off the seams with paper tape and "mud", then "float" the mud smooth.

the drywall float is a flat metal tool on a handle that you drag across the mud to smooth it out, like when you smooth out the icing on a cake

You want to put the tub in first.

Yes, but only if the joint cement is still wet.

average price to tape and mud is anywhere from .50 to1.00

Yes.

eating it tastes horrible, but im not sure if eating it can hurt you so much...ive been ingesting a certain amount for 21 years as a drywaller and nothing yet lol.

You put the screw back in the plastic, screw it in for a few turns & then pull the rest of the molly bolt out of the wall. It will leave a big hole that you need to patch & repaint.

It's hard to say for certain, but most of the research that I've done indicates that gunite probably did contain asbestos in 1964, since it was used for internal insulation in many places (ships, shipyards, factories, etc.) until the mid-70s.

You might find more helpful material at www.asbestosnews.com, so definitely check it out!

Yes, mud is a compound .

Most truss systems are spaced 24 inches on center. Depending on the length, or load applied they will sometimes need to be spaced 16 inches on center. Trussed Rafters as advised by TRADA are now spaced at 600mm c/c.

I don't know if the pros recommend it, but I've used my orbital sander with fine (150 grit) paper. I attach my shop vac to the sander's output and even vent the shop vac out a window for a near dustless sanding job. You do have to be careful. Even light pressure on the sander can eat through the mud very quickly or rough up the drywall paper and tape.

If the damaged area is small then a skrim or jointing tape can be used, if the damaged area is large then it must be cut back to the joists, replaced, jointing tape applied then skimmed.

2 inches of floor

What I usually do is to first cut off any loose paper or dry wall that is there. Then I spread joint compound or spackle (depends on the size of the damage) over the damaged area. After the area is completely dry then sand the area with sandpaper and make sure the patch is flush with the surrounding area. If not keep filling in and sanding until it is. Then I usually use a textured roller with paint to blend the area with the rest of the wall. I hope this helps you.

It depends on the plant and what you want to accomplish with them. "Herbs" can mean little bitty ground-covers like thyme or great big hedge-size plants like lavender and rosemary. Are these herbs hardy in your area? If an herb isn't going to overwinter in your area, there's no real harm in crowding them in a bed to get a fuller look. On the other hand, if you're making a hedge out of plants that are hardy, you'll want to plant them according to the growers recommendation because eventually those plants will get so large that they'll fill in the gaps naturally. Long story short, there's no one answer to this question. For best results, talk to a nursery owner in your area.

Plaster will do the trick. I always buy the one that is ready-mixed.

Dead weight per square foot is calculated in the following fashion:

a = building weight

b = square footage of building

c = building dead weight/ SF

c = a/b

I'm not entirely sure. I wouldn't unless the hole gets bigger. In the case I would ask Someone who is good with plants.

XX is not a standard marking. I do not know what you are looking at specifically however; the Gypsum Association has a web site that I use a lot http://www.gypsum.org/. The most common marking for fire ratting is either TYPE X or TYPE C. Look at the GA sit or find the manufacturer site and look for their markings. If the manufacturer does not have a site, it is possible that the product is not listed and should not be used in a rated assembly. Contact your local Building Official or GA for moré information.

Yes you can. You must first paint over the old plaster with a product such as Eucoweld, which chemically adheres the new plaster to the old.

Yes. An urge to do so could also be the sign of a nutritional deficiency. Consume a multivitamin and a good diet and consult medical attention if you continue to have an urge to consume drywall.

You have a problem with the drywall. It is not a problem with the paint. Most likely it is moisture or some kind of contamination on the wall that is pulling it off the drywall. Another issue to consider is if you have too many coats on the wall the weight of all the coats of paint can cause stress and pull everything off. If the paint is not peeling everywhere and is just peeling in certain places the paint did not fail. (Paint does not choose where it will peel and where it will adhere).

If you want to paint over plaster it is important to let it dry thoroughly. This can take between five and ten days, and in some cases even longer. However, it will feel dry to the touch within a day or so.

In the room - sweep, vaccum, dust, wipe down the walls (use a just barely damp cloth for best results.

In a small area, a tack cloth is best.