Usually it's either the window regulator or window motor. You can buy both online for about half of what the dealer will charge for the part. It could also be the master switch on the driver's side, but if all the other windows are working fine, I'd replace the regulator and motor. I bought the regulator with motor combo for $81 delivered recently and my window is working perfectly now.
Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to remove a door panel:
Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to test a power window motor to determine whether the problem is in the motor/regulator or the switch/wiring
Hey Chris==This is very hard on some makes as the door panel is hard to remove. After you get it off, you have to remove the motor which is attached to the window linkage which is under spring preasure. There are very sharp edges in the door so be careful. GoodluckJoe
Remove the speaker grill. There is a single screw. Take that off and the panel can be removed.
remove the handle screws cover and remove the screws. Remove the opening door handle screws. there are two of those. You will be able to see then if you look behind the handle on the black cover.
I did a How To writeup on fixing the Holden Astra rear window failure, with pictures, here:
This applies to electric or gas/diesel-electric vehicles. An electric motor can be instantly converted to an electric generator when polarities are switched. So, when you want your electric car to slow down or stop, you could have the motor suddenly turn into a generator. If the generator has very high electromagnetic flux, then it will act as a brake, and the kinetic energy of the vehicle is converted into electric charge in the battery.
Hence, reactive braking actually "saves" the kinetic energy for future use. Gravity Reactive Braking involves using a special ratchet for wheelchairs and stationary machinery, in which the kinetic energy is rapidly converted into potential energy; the basic principle is similar to a steep ramp, used to slow down a rolling cart.
Sometimes "reactive" braking means the brake system is mechanically designed to engage under certain conditions, such as excessive RPM.
The U.S. Department of Energy offers these tips: Set your thermostat at 78°F or higher. Each degree setting below 78°F will increase your energy consumption by approximately 8%. Use bath and kitchen fans sparingly when the air conditioner is operating. Check and clean both indoor and outdoor coils periodically. Dirt build-up on the indoor coil is the single most common cause of poor efficiency. Check the refrigerant charge. You may need a service contractor to check the fluid and adjust it appropriately. Shade east and west windows. When possible, delay heat-generating activities, such as dish washing, until the evening on hot days. Keep the house closed tight during the day. Don't let in unwanted heat and humidity. If practical, ventilate at night either naturally or with fans. Try not to use a dehumidifier at the same time your air conditioner is operating. The dehumidifier will increase the cooling load and force the air conditioner to work harder. [From Reducing Your Central Air Conditioner's Energy Use at The U.S. Department of Energy Website] I would also add that you replace all incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent bulbs. Incandescent bulbs generate a lot of waste heat that the AC must get rid of. You should only use compact fluorescent bulbs where it is dry and not in an enclosed fixture (an enclosed fixture will reduce the life of the bulb). Also, consider how much you will be using the light. It is better to replace only the bulbs that will be on for more than 15 minutes at a time. Also note that compact fluorescents cannot be used with dimmers. These bulbs not only put out less waste heat for the AC to get rid of, but they save considerable energy to light the bulb (as far as brightness, a 26W compact fluorescent equals about 100W incandescent bulb).
1. remove door panel trim. The regulator is riveted to the power window motor, with 3 large rivets. Three other large rivets atatch this whole assy to the inside of the door. It is important to drill out the rivets holding the regulator /and motor to the door, and leaving the motor attached to the regulator, because the regulator has a heavy spring that will be released if the rivets are removed. To separate the regulator and motor you need to drill a hole in the regulator arm, and place a nut and bolt through the hole, at a point that will keep the spring compressed once the motor is removed. Now that the regulator is secure, the rivets on the motor can be drilled out, and motor separated. The new motor needs to be bolted onto the regulator, or riveted. The factory rivets are large, and it is doubtfull you will find such large rivets, or a rivet gun for that purpose, so stick with bolts and nuts. reinstall the complete assy, and again bolt in the whole assy inside the door. bolts and nuts are a real pain in the butt to use in such a confined space, but again rivets of such a large size are hard to find, along with a real large rivet gun. I reccommend using nylon locking nuts so they will not come loose after a certain amount of time and vibration. A set of rubber door stops is also usefull in holding the window glass in the up position while work is being done.
You will find a rivet gun that size at Habor Freight cheap china made but will do the trick.
See link below
The first thing I would check is the switch and motor (if they are power windows which most late model Firebirds are) if it is burned out, a replacement will be necessary. A more likey possibility is that the window simply went off it's track, after it went down. This is most likely if the windows were working fine. Use a screwdriver to revove the door panels from the inside and remove the plastic sheet to access the window and hardware, be careful however, because the plastic protects your cars electrical work from dirt and moisture Ok, what he said above is true, but unless it dropped or clearly jammed, its probably not off the track. I recently changed out the motor on my 92, and I will warn you, its EXTREMELY HARD. Once you do it, you will see why a shop wants around $200 labor for it. I heard that in 94 they started making them with nylon pulleys and belts (always trying to come up with something cheaper), so it might not be that hard. Basically, buy a new motor, have someone hold the glass up while you detach the motor/regulator assembly from the door, then work it out of the door the best you can (it will take a while, a long while) then replace the old motor with the new one (if there was a tensioner spring, make sure before you put it back in that the tension is in the right direction, you dont want to have to take that sucker out again). Put it back in the door, reattach it, and there you go, just make sure its the way you found it.
I had this problem: 1. put new spark plugs (change all) 2. put new spark-wires 3. if this wan't help check the rotor cap for any cuts (if there are cuts inside the rotor cap the they will be very very fine) better is to buy a new. 4. You should make a injector cleaning
Get a Chilton's Manual. It explains how to do it fairly well. Then all you need is a little patience and mechanical skill.
It is also easier to pull out the entire regulator with the assembly, then remove the motor from it.
I had to pull the whole regulator out of door. But keep in mind you must remove window first,then put regulator in a vise,so the spring tension wont be released.If you dont have a vise drill a hole in the arm with the teeth in it so you can bolt it to the X frame,so the tension dont get released. You proberly have to drill out rivits on old motor also.
hardest part is getting the window to line up on the tracks after installation dont be scared. i am not that mechanical and did it in less than 2 hours try autozone for online instructions they were very good
I've had my passenger power window motor go out twice on my 2002 Cavalier and trust me, it's harder to put the motor in than one would think. I took it to the local glass company and they installed it for about $70. Not a bad price to get it done right.
Hey Stacy==It isn't the easiest thing to do and you need special tools. I suggeast you take it to the trim shop. GoodluckJoe
The only special tool you need is a trim panel remover tool that you can buy for under $10. See my related link for full instructions on how to do the repair.
dude take it to safelite you ain't gonna figure it out just gonna give your self a headach btw its called a panel poper and its called a door panel nice try though
yea it's a door panel, but the tool is a trim panel remover.
1. Remove the door Pull-handle cover, by inserting a screwdriver into the access hole on the bottom of the handle, and using the screwdriver as a lever, pop off the handle cover.
2. Remove the button covering a retaining screw in the interior door latch backing plate.
3. Remove the 8 Torx� retaining screws around the perimeter of the door panel, and the single Torx� retaining screw in the interior door latch.
4. Remove the 2 hex bolts in the door handle.
5. Gently lift the panel upwards, to disengage the window weather-strip molding.
6. Remove the Door Latch Trim Panel, be sure to unplug the Power Lock Switch, and remember how the wire was run.
7. Remove the interior door latch, by gently pulling out on the front corner, which is held in by a plastic compression spring.
I just removed the driver's side window motor from a 1999 Corolla and I would have to say that it would have been near impossible to do it without removing the entire track assembly. This seemed rather hard to do at first but it turned out to be a quite simple job.
NEED TO TAKE THE WHOLE DOOR PANEL OFF
you dont unscrew the rivets you drill them out and replace them with a screw iv been fixing them for years
Drill them out then try replacing them with screws, since nobody seems to carry window rivets but the dealer who charges ridiclous prices for four bloody rivets...Additional InfoThe rebuilt window motor I got at NAPA had 4 bolts to fasten the motor to the regulator and 4 large rivets to fasten the regulator back to the door, all included in the box ($65). Now all I need is a really big rivet gun (these are too big for a standard rivet tool, like the one I have. If you do get one in, you have to disassemble the rivet gun to get it back out.)
Another toll-booth, another mile--or at least it seems as if the tollbooths come every mile on this road, with a half mile of traffic idling its leisurely way up to the token monster. Within an arm's length of the bin, you toggle the power window switch with one hand while the other hand fingers a token, preparing to whip it into the basket just as you floor the throttle. All goes as planned--except the window doesn't move, the token bounces back into your face, and you have to jam on the brakes, crack the door and pitch a second token backhanded to keep from getting a ticket as a toll evader, all to the tune of horns blaring from the cars behind you.
Fortunately, power windows are usually one of the more reliable systems on a late-model car. And diagnosis and repair are usually pretty straightforward.
The most common power window mechanism is pretty basic. There's a simple regulator mechanism, usually similar to the mechanism used on garden-variety hand-cranked windows. It comes in several varieties--rack, sector and cable drive. Troubleshooting is pretty straightforward, once you get the door panels off--but your problem may be terribly simple and may not require removing any trim at all.
First: Are all of the windows on the fritz? Or just one? If you can't move any of the windows, the first place to look is at the fuse. Window regulators are high-current devices, and the fuse is sized to just barely be able to open all four windows together. Age and a few sticky window channels can pop a fuse. Turn the key to the Run position, but don't start the car.
If the fuse is blown, pushing a window button will do nothing at all: The motor won't groan and the glass won't quiver. If the fuse is good and you can hear the motor, or the glass acts like it wants to move, then you've got some sort of mechanical problem. If not, check the fuse. If the fuse box isn't labeled, check the owner's manual to see which fuse is the culprit. Don't go yanking fuses willy-nilly looking for a bad one--you might interrupt the power to the engine management computer, causing poor driveability for 30 minutes or so--or you might reset all the buttons on your car radio to that undersea-alien rock-gospel station.
Fuse okay, but the window still won't budge? Again, are all the windows dormant? Or just one? If it's just one, you still may get an opportunity to go spelunking inside the door. If it's all four, maybe it's something simpler you can troubleshoot under the dash.
At this point, if you've narrowed the fault down to some electrical problem that's not as simple as a blown fuse you need to round up a schematic of your car's electrical system and a voltmeter or 12v test light. All that's necessary now is to start at the fuse panel and follow the wiring to the switch, and from there move on to the motor, testing along the way for 12 volts. Somewhere, you'll find a loose or corroded connector interrupting the voltage to the motor. Or, the switch itself might be bad. If the driver's door switch won't open the right rear door, but the switch in the door will, look for either a bad switch in the driver's door or a fault in the intervening wiring.
Carefully backprobe the window switches to isolate any electrical faults in the switches, connectors or wiring.
At this point, you probably need to be able to access the inside of the switch panel. On some vehicles, like the one in our lead illustration, you can simply pry the panel up with your fingers and backprobe the connectors. Other vehicles may require that you remove the panel.
Door panels are held on with a bewildering variety of fasteners. Start by pulling off all of the door pulls and handles. The perimeter of the panel is customarily held on fragile plastic studs intended for one-time use. Pry them up carefully, and you should be able to reuse them.
Once you've got the door panel off, carefully remove the weather sheeting. You'll need to replace this later, and you may need fresh contact cement to do so.
Warning: You now have the ability to put your fingers into places where fingers normally don't go. As our mechanic pal Lefty points out, "A power window motor has enough torque to put a serious hurtin' on ya if it's actuated while errant digits are in the gears."
Reel and cable window regulators are simple mechanisms, but can be fussy about cable routing and may snag if jammed.
As an absolute proof that the problem is electrical, try running a jumper wire direct from the battery positive terminal to the positive side of the motor to see if it comes alive. Be aware that a few window regulator systems supply 12v constantly, and switch the ground side of the circuit. Check the schematic. Also, most vehicles have the ability to lock--and deactivate--the rear windows. Check this switch if only the rears are balky. Occasionally, the true problem is a duff motor. You'll have to replace it. Otherwise, you can simply trace the wires until you find the problem.
Severe misalignment caused by loose fasteners can jam gear-type regulators.
All windows have gaskets and seals to keep wind noise and rain out. If the window has a slow spot or won't open or close properly, check the gaskets. A gasket that's misplaced or torn can prevent proper operation. If the gasket is loose, or even torn, you may be able to repair it. If the gasket is simply loose, get some 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive at the auto parts store. Clean off the old adhesive with lacquer thinner and reglue the gasket into place. Allow this to dry overnight with the window closed, and be certain you're not gluing the window to the gasket.
If the gasket is torn, you might be able to use a super glue to simply repair the tear. You may be able to judiciously trim a loose corner of gasket away with a single-edge razor blade. Be particularly careful about doing this on the part of the gasket that sits outside of the glass, because it may admit rain and salt spray to the inside of the door in quantities too large for the door's internal drainage system to cope with.
Replacing a gasket or seal with a new part is generally straightforward. If it's not obvious that the gasket is astray, inspect the entire gasket and channel carefully. Look for damage, but also look for such things as pine sap, fossilized Froot Loops or other foreign objects that might make the window stick or bind. Clean the surface of the gasket and window with lacquer thinner to remove oxidized rubber and scum.
There's a fair amount of friction between the gasket and the window glass. Almost any misalignment can dramatically increase the friction to the point where the motor no longer has enough torque to move the glass properly.
Lubricate the entire channel with silicone spray or protectant, because the reduced friction just might get your window working again.
It's also possible that the problem is deeper inside the door. If so, you'll need to pull the door panel and go poking around. Remember to pull the fuse to prevent amputating your fingers. You can use either a rubber wedge doorstop or a couple of feet of duct tape to anchor the glass up while you work.
Sometimes the problem is nothing more than a loose bolt allowing the door's inner structure to move around, misaligning the window track. Many doors have slotted holes for the attachment points for internal parts, so careful consideration of the misalignment will sometimes let you simply slide one adjustment a 1/4 in. or so and straighten it all out. All bets are off if the door has been damaged in a crash. It may take a long time to get everything working right.
Lastly, the mechanism that runs the window up and down may be faulty. Whether it's a gear-and-sector, scissors lift or cable-operated mechanism, you'll need to watch it moving up and down a few times. Again, keep your fingers out of the works. Sometimes the problem will be a loose fastener or rivet, sometimes a broken or missing bushing. Cables can bind on the drum or become sticky. Lube all the friction points with white grease. Don't forget there are gaskets in the window track down below the top of the door, and you may need to reglue, repair or lubricate them.
It may be possible to replace a bad motor, or you may need the entire mechanism.
Check the weatherstripping and window channel for torn, loose or folded rubber parts, or foreign objects in the way.HOW IT WORKS: Automatic Windows
Some late-model high-end cars have frameless windows that automatically crank themselves open a quarter-inch or so as the doors are opened. It happens so fast that you may not notice it. The window opens rapidly, clearing the seal before the door latch clears. It then closes automatically about a second after the door latch latches. There are two advantages to this. First, the slightly open window vents interior air, which can actually make doors on tightly sealed cars hard to open by springing the door back open against air pressure. It also lets the manufacturer use a vastly different style of seal on the top of the window. The seal can more closely resemble a sedan door seal, with a small lip protruding over the top of the glass. This type of seal won't work on frameless windows because the glass has to clear the seal as it opens and closes. This type of seal allows less water and noise intrusion. The downside is with the logic control module needed to achieve this. Repairs will probably need a factory shop manual and, potentially, some expensive parts.
you can go to a pickand pull and for 55 dollars they can put in a new window and guarantee it
Here are complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to remove a door panel:
IT IS MOUNTED BY RIVETS. YOU MUST DRILL THEM OUT
This is not an easy job. You need special tools to get the door panel off. I suggest you take it to the trim shop.
Actually you dont need special tools, all you have to do is remove 2 screws, one bolt and a long torx bolt.
Just remove the sail panel (covers the mirror bolts) and there is a screw behind it. pull out the switch panel and there is a screw behind it. pull the trim around the door handle and there is a bolt holding the door handle. and remove the light cover and there is a torx bolt in the light housing.
then lift straight up on the panel and once its loose, just unplug the light and it is off.
I removed the gear from the gearbox, separated the two halves of the 'gear assembly' and used carb cleaner and an old toothbrush to clean the parts up nicely (also cleaned up the gearbox housing its self). Then I used epoxy (the type with 2 syringes siamesed together works perfectly) to turn the gear assembly in to a one-piece gear. I don't really see why they designed it the way they did with bushings between the 2 halves of the gear, but as one piece the gear works beautifully. I used white lithium grease to re-lubricate the assembly and it's been perfect since.
Take care and good luck. Be careful working inside the doors, they like to put nice sharp edges in there. There are 3 little bolts holding the crank motor in the door, and of course a wire harness to unplug.i currently have a 85 that had the same problem you described, in my case it was 3 hard plastic bushings in the gearbox. worked like new afterwards. AnswerSounds like the glass slipped off the track. Answercould also be that the wire that runs the window up and down the tracks has broken, as in my 1995 Isuzu MU Answerpls see...
The related question link on the right side of this page.AnswerCould be the motor is loose it's mounting and the gear on the motor is not engaging the gear on the window lift frame. a visual inspection is necessary here.
Could be a lot of things. When I worked At a Chrysler Dealership, we replaced TONS of the motors for stripped gears! Check the regulator to motor gear fit. if the teeth aren't ground off of anything, it's probably in the motor itself.AnswerElectric windows on Chrysler Corporation vehicles in this era have a few known weaknesses. The three bushings as mentioned in another answer are one, but those usually cause the window to shake on the way down. The nuts that hold the glass to the track can come off their studs, but that normally causes the window to bind on the track, plus the window would not only float up and down but could rotate. The motor itself has two major problems- the gear attached to the motor's output shaft can break as it's plastic on many models, and the motor housing itself can deform, leading to a misalignment of the output shaft and the gear. Usually for the housing to deform it also cracks, and is probably best replaced rather than repaired.
Chrysler power window motors are different side to side, mirror images of each other. almost all of these motors from the seventies until the end of the vintage RWD cars in '89 use the same motors, so there are plenty of source vehicles to choose from, but be warned, depending on application, the motor for your passenger's side window might have been used on a driver's side window on a different model, and vice-versa for the other side. It's probably a good idea if pulling a used part to record the part number of the existing motor or to have a picture of it when seeking a replacement in order to get the right motor.
Step 1: Remove plastic cover from top right corner to expose screw - Remove.
Step 2: Remove screw from door release handle- push plastic covering to the right(front) of vehicle to remove. This piece is easy to break, use caution.
Step 3: Remove arm rest by prying up with flat head- remove screws (2)
Step 4: Pry door panel away from door frame by grabbing bottom ends and work your way up (a quick/firm pull usually works) when at the top grab top ends of panel and pull upwards. Next, slide one hand over toward middle and remove wire connections from convenience light(bottom left) and window/door switches (squeeze lever to release).
Step 5: Remove window/door actuator from panel (easily pushes out) and reattach to connection.
Step 6: Turn key to receive power, then lower window(assuming your window lowers but cannot raise as mine did) to the point where you can see access to the10 mm bolts (the one on the right is accessed through small hole). TURN KEY OFF.
Step 7: Remove the 10 mm bolts holding the window (place hands under bolts to catch in case they fall) ( there is no washer). Remove window if desired; my window was easy to remove by tilting right side downward while pulling left side up (from inside of door)
Step 8: Remove wire connection from motor.
Step 9: There are 6 10 mm bolts visible to remove, 4 for the motor and 2 for the regulator. The top bolt for the motor should be removed LAST and NOT to be removed completely- this bolt will help anchor the assembly until all the bolts are removed. You can then lift the assembly off this anchor point WITHOUT removing bolt completely and losing washer inside door :-).
Step 10: Squeeze regulator arms together pull through access hole.
Step 11: Remove last bolt from old unit and attach to new unit (do not tighten)
Step 12: Reinstall new unit by anchoring it on bolt to aid in stabilizing it while attaching 4 bolts for motor unit.
Step 13: (New unit from 1Aauto has modification from old- the lower bracket is no longer attached to motor assembly) Attach the bracket & tighten all remaining bolts.
Step 14: Reattach wire connection to motor & reattach wire connection to window/door actuator.
Step 15: TURN ON KEY. Use window actuator button to lower raise/lower unit to access hole level to reinstall the window glass. Turn OFF KEY. Remove window actuator switch & reinstall it in door panel.
Step 16: Reinstall glass: If you took window out, reverse the process by dipping the right side (forward side) in the door and swoop it down and right to allow left side to fit. Reattach window with bolts.
Step 16: Reassemble door panel:attach convenience light and window/door actuator, lift panel over door top of door and use palm of hand to reattach push pins around door panel. Reinstall screws to arm rest, door release, and corner connections.
You are done!!Answerits a real pain.....best left to a garage AnswerWhen I replaced mine, the instruction that came with the replacement motor was quite helpful. ($109 from Kragen with a core charge of $35, can get a better deal at Autozone.)
The first thing you will have to do is remove the door panel. There are a handful of screws to take out from the top portion. There are two that are hidden behind the handle trim which you will have to ply off. The bottom part of panel needs to be popped out. Disconnect the wires and lift the entire panel off.
Next you will have to work (lower) the window to a position so that the two 10mm bolts that holds the glass to the regulator can be loosen. My motor was no totally dead but was sticking every half an inch. I found that by starting the engine and pushing the glass and the activation the switch I can gradually lower the glass to the desired position where you can get at those bolts.
Detach the glass from the regulator and pull the glass up along the track. Don't try to take the glass out. Use duct tape to hold the glass in the up position.
Remove the four 10mm bolts that holds the regulator and motor to the door. Loosen the black 10mm bolts in the slotted hole. Now, you should be able to grad the regulator and motor and work it out of the door through the largest openning.
Since the regulator arm is spring loaded, you MUST NOT try to detach the motor from the regulator without first locking the arm in its current position. The instruction says to drill a hole through the arm and the plate that holds the motor and use a bolt to keep the arm from moving. I discovered that there are a couple of holes on the plates that I can pass two bolts through and tighten to create the lock. Anyways, I used a marker pen to mark the position just to make sure nothing moves.
Next, the bad motor is taken off by removing three screws. Mount the new motor in place. Make sure the gear is engaged properly with the tooth on the arm. Lubricate all the moving parts with some grease. Now, you are ready to put the whole thing back. Of course, you will have to deal with the wiring for the new motor.
The process took me about an hour and a half. Most of the time was spent on trying to lower the glass into position because the old motor was stuck.
remove the door panel screws, the door handle, the armrest bolts behind the plastic plugs, the and use a molding tool to pry the plastic clips from the door, also disconnect the electrical connection. Last note, the motor is riveted in so you'll have to drill them out.
your problem might the hidden screw on the bottom of the door in the carpet. It is in the corner toward the back of the door.
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