Flooring

15 x 35 = 525 sq ft 9 sq ft in 1 sq yd 525 / 9 = 58.33 square yards

You can use wax, but It will be like a ice skateing rink if used on the floor. I use it on the walls in the shower and it works great..

I cleaned mine (sinks and tub) with adhesive cleaner and paint and varnish remover. Worked. Then I scrubbed with CLR and ajax.

One square yard is nine square feet. Divide 2100 square feet by 9 and you get 233 and a third square yards in 2100 square feet. You would probably need more than that, as there will be some lost material as you cut in the various corners. You will need to draw this out.

wet saw!!

1200 square feet is the same thing as (133 and 1/3) square yards.

Depending on the style and quality, different kinds of carpet can cost anywhere from $5 to $20

a square yard. Maybe more by now, since I was involved with such things.

$5 per square yard . . . . . $670

$20 per square yard . . . . $2,680.

That's just the carpet. Don't forget pad and installation. They're probably not free.

You will need at least 17 30-inch tiles to cover 104 square feet. Each tile covers 6.25 square feet so you divide 104 by 6.25 which gives you 16.64 tiles. Add more tiles to allow for extras in case of damage to tiles during installation.

9 square feet in a sq yard so:

its 8X10 to find the area of the room 80 square feet

80 divided by 9 = ?

You will also want to know that carpet is made 12' wide so the real question is how much is in a 12X8 ?

If this is an automatic transmission, which I am assuming it is it will not work the same as a standard. Only drive it in overdrive or 1st gear.

6 sq. yds

Several factors influence the abrasive qualities of a concrete surface. Mix design, exposure conditions, placement and finishing regimens are foremost. For instance a broom finish offers more skid resistance however it will demonstrate wear much quicker than a steel troweled finish will.

Whatever these conditions are should be tested if the abrasion qualities are a real concern. ASTM C-672 Scaling resistance and ASTM C-31 Compressive Strength are the two test that are all telling as to what you can expect.

Can be very important! Concrete Dusting is a problem in areas where electronics attract silica dust from abraded concrete surfaces, causing problems with the electronics. Use of a product called "StableCrete" is a way to stop dusting and improve compressive strength of a concrete.

This material penetrates into a concrete and forms a solid inside the capillary system of concrete making it more dense. It also waterproofs and gives acid resistance to the concrete.

I assume "batter board" is another term for "Batters Eye" in center field. If not then this answer will not apply to your question.

The Batters Eye is for the batter to have a "backdrop" that will allow him to see the baseball come from the pitchers hand. Generally these are green or black because they allow the white ball to be seen easily. If you are in the outfield on a line drive hit to you, then you might appreciate having this as when you are at bat. A white ball being thrown at you 80-90mph that you cant see because someone in the center field bleachers is wearing a white shirt right where the release point is for the pitcher would not be a good thing.

towels, cat litter and charcoal for absorption and smell wet vac. silica jell from the dollar store to absorb moisture. check gaskets on rear lights broken or missing?

It is a carpet made by The Mohawk Carpet Mills in Amsterdam, NY and the pattern is called "The Royal Caliph" carpet patton #60155-11 and the size of the carpet is 8' x 10'

I assume the "gap" you refer to is the expansion joint between the coping and the concrete deck. The expansion joint is there to prevent damage from occurring in case of movement. There should be no reason for concern, unless you are replacing the deck.

Assuming a standard stair size (36" wide & 18" crotch to crotch), or smaller, you would need a piece of carpet 12' wide & 6' 3" long.

Most sealers can be stripped in one of two ways: chemical or abrasive.

Chemical cleaners include solvent based strippers, like Jasco. These contain very effective but somewhat hazardous chemicals. (see the study done in California: http://www.irta.us/PaintStrippers06.pdf ) Other products use a citrus or soybean source and seem to work well. All of these are messy and create a residue which must be contained and disposed off. Tip: Dwell Time is your best friend - let the chemical do the hard work by keeping it damp and penetrating.

Abrasive methods can include aggressive power washing (usually 3,000 psi or higher, sometimes with special "rotary" tips. These are potentially dangerous to users and substrate if used too close, in the same spot for too long, or with too narrow a tip, a 250 fan tip is about the minimum. Many times a chemical product will be used prior to, or in conjunction with pressure washing.

Abrasion also includes "bead blasting" or sand blasting. Both require specialized equipment and professional skills. Similarly, some rental locations offer concrete "planers" or "scarifiers. These remove far more than just the sealer! Sanding or screening by hand or with rentable walk behind equipment is possible for many applications.

Last: Ask yourself: why are you stripping? If for a subsequent sealer check with the manufacturer - sanding or cleaning may be adequate. If for a penetrating stain or dye - a much more thorough removal, rinse, and testing may be required.

To much exposure of water to hard floor can darken the color and warp the tiles. Though, small amounts of water (as long as it is not stationary) will not harm the floor.

18' X 16' = 288sq ft

288 sq ft / 9 = 32 sq yds

32 sq yds X $0.65 = $20.80

Try automotive products. Maybe something that cleans up the paint and renews color.

you can use baby powder in the crack of the floor to stop the boards from rubbing together thus stopping the squeaking noise Put rugs all over to completely cover the floor. If the floor has wall to wall carpeting, finishing nails can be driven through the carpet and properly set into the floor to stablize the moving floorboards. If you have access to the underside of the floor, you can do it from below with screws, but make sure the tips don't go through! You can also use some wedges with wood glue on them to remove any movement.