GMC Suburban

if the engine rolls over by the starter it either has no fire or its not getting any gas. if you have a combination of gas and fire it has to at least make an atempt to fireup when you try to start it. If your truck is turning over but isn't catching, or isn't getting any fire, check your distributor cap and rotor (if you have them) to make sure there are no carbon deposits, arc tracks from pole to pole or water inside. If that is okay, check your coil wire to make sure it is functioning correctly. Take the coil wire lead NOT connected to the coil and hold it within about a half-inch away from the rocker arm cover (or other metal surface...NOT the carb.)and have someone turn the ignition over. You should see a spark arcing between the wire and the metal. If no spark... you could have a bad coil, or possibly (hopefully?) just a bad coil wire. Check all your spark plug wires and make sure they are dry...on the inside especially... and seated on the spark plugs tightly. Did you check your gas? Surprisingly, much of the time that is the only thing wrong. Unless you know for sure that the gas gauge is correct, add some more gas to make positive that you have enough. If you have water in your gas, adding more fuel will make the gas-to-water ratio better to start and run with. Lastly, there is a possibility that although the engine is turning over, there may not be enough juice in the battery to actually start the car. Try getting a jump from another truck or a vehicle with a battery that is rated at 850 or higher cranking power. Remember, everytime you try and start the engine, a bit of your battery's energy gets used up and if the engine isn't running, the battery is NOT getting recharged. Did you check your Fuel line? if your fuel line is plugged you will not revive any fuel from the tank to the carburator.Check it and see if it is plugged. Good luck!! Happy cranking!! :) Mike Morris...Muskegon, MI thats for gasoline engines above, how about diesel engines 1) if no cranks check starter an circuit/battery if cranks move to #2 2) no fuel or water in fuel or frozen if winter also if ran out of fuel, you got air in the system, need to bleed the air out of injector pump by opening injector lines...caution for pressure excede's 1,600 bar/25,000 psi, will cut your fingers like a lazer. 3) if has fuel an cranks check glow plugs are working or compression of diesel engine is to low to fire fuel. 4) machanicial parts failure of engine, eg. roots blower,turbo 5) check all fluids levels, on todays trucks have computers that will stop you from driving.

Heater Core is stopped up with debris not allowing for smooth air flow through it. Or something stuck in the back of the fan assembly not allowing the fan to be able to pull air through. Found one of those plastic grocery bags covering the back of the fan in my 1997 Suburban



Good luck.

P265/70R16

im assuming motor specs? 6cyl....230ci-140hp and 220 lb ft 250ci- 155hp and235lb ft 292ci-170hp and 275lb ft 8 cyl....305/307-190hp and 285lb ft 350ci 205hp and 320lb ft 396/400ci 270-300hp and 400lb ft 454ci 340hp and 500lb ft

4-6thousand pounds

Right above the starter, but you'll have to first drop the starter to get access to the CPSensor. my son in law has a 99 suburban 5.7 and the crank sensor is located on the passenger side of engine at the front by the timing chain cover.

The overshot wheel was an improvement over the undershot wheel because it allowed for creating more force on the water so the wheel moved faster. The undershot wheel has a drag factor because water is gotten at the bottom of the wheel and has to be carried up to the top of the wheel. The overshot wheel has water flowing into the buckets at the top of the wheel forcing it downward.

On the driver's side next to the distributor; hard to get to.

The Standard 8 Lug Bolt Pattern is: 8x165.1 or better known as 8x6.5 in the metric world! better pronounced "8 on 6 and a half"

Professional-grade Automotive Wiring Diagrams are available from the following sources: Alldata [alldatadiy.com] (black & white circuits) $25 Mitchell Repair [eautorepair.net] (black & white circuits) $10 Automotive Hobbyists [ahdol.com] (full-color circuits) $10 Free wiring information (not diagrams though) is available from the following sources: Install Doctor [installdr.com] The 12 Volt [the12volt.com]

My leak was a union in the hose system to the left of the engine and near the firewall. It is a plastic valve that probably reguates water into the heater core. My first problem was a crack in the valve. After replacement I had to snug up the clamps after a few thousand miles.

do fuel pressure test

Under the truck, inside the frame rail on driver side, almost straight in from driver's door.

9 to 13 LBS. No more and no less.

Disconnect the positive battery cable, loosen the tension on the drive belt for the alternator, remove the electrical connections to the alt, remove the alt, and reverse the procedure. Tighten the drive belt tensioner to the required factory specs. Reconnect the battery cable.

There is none!!

Sounds like you need a tune up. New spark plugs, air filter, oil change. Check your distributor cap and rotor. Might even need a new MAF sensor for the check engine light. Get a manual and go through these ideas.

yes

if your pan has a drain plug at the back of it drain the ATF first otherwise loosen the 19 bolts that hold the pan up, then remove the rear most and gently pry down on the back of the pan and let the ATF drain that way. Then remove the remaining bolts and wiggle the dipstivk tube apart ( the dipstick tube is connected to the pan and about 4 or 6 inches up there is a separation point on the tube it will come apart at the same time you want to quit). Then remove th pan being careful not to dammage the wires on the driver side inside the pan. clean up the pan and gasket mounting surface on the trans and trans pan. install new gasket and add about 5 qts. of merc./ dexron III or chrystler ATF +4 and your done.

Based on cars.com the 7.4 liter engine has 295 horses.

Plugs, wires, distributor cap, head gasket, burned valve, vacuum leak...

The keyless entry on a 1999 Chevy Suburban is an optional accessory which make entering the vehicle much easier. A button is pressed on the key chain is pressed to remotely unlock the vehicle.

Remove the two screws in the top of the bezel plate in front of the speedometer housing. There are two snap in grommets at the bottom of the same bezel. These pull out kind of hard but by pulling straight out one side and then the other side worked well for me. You'll need to unplug the headlight & cruise control switches on the left side and may have to unplug the rear wiper, rear heater, and flasher switches on the right side but I didn't have too as my wires were long enough to place the bezel over to the side hanging on the right side wires mentioned. You'll have to drop the steering column to its lowest point and you'll have to pull the transmission selector down into 1st geat to get everything below the bezel to remove. There are four screws that hold the soeedometer housing in place and need to be removed after getting the bezel out of the way. Slowly pull the speedometer housing outward and rotate the housing from the left side so you can access the back side of the housing. The bulbs are in 1/4 turn black sockets at various locations on the backside circuit board. Twist CCW to remove and CW to put back in after the bulb has been changed. Replace one at a time unless you know exactly which ones have been removed as there are several style speedometer layouts on the Villager's. I used instrument lamp #168 but I believe a #161 and a #194 bulb will work also. Reverse the steps to re-install everything. Make sure to plug back in a the switches you unplugged and check to make sure the right side switches are tight even if you didn't unplug them. Should be about a 1/2 hour job start to finish if you have the bulbs.

This would not be a direct swap.......adapters and computer change is inevitable!

You clear the light with an OBD2 scan tool after the problem that set the light and fault code has been repaired.