GMC Suburban

Hello.

I have a 1998 4x4, 454, K2500. Check out my other posts, before you settle on the problem being the fuel pump. It is probably the electrical connection to the pump.

Anyway, here is how you change the pump. I have dropped my 44 gallon tank several times and changed the pump once. The pump was fine, but very noisy(at 145,000 miles), so I changed it out.

You will need a special tool (two sizes)to disconnect the fuel lines to the top of the pump. These are the circular type tools that you use to disconnect A/C lines on newer vehicles. I can't remember the exact sizes. You can find them at auto parts suppliers everywhere. Better get a tool before you start this procedure.

Since it is a 4x4 with high road clearance, there is no need to raise the vehicle. However, you will need a wheel mounted, hydraulic jack to lower the tank. Hopefully, your tank will be pretty close to empty before attempting this.

As a safety precaution, please disconnect the battery cables.

Place the hydraulic jack under and up against the skid plate. Remove four bolts from the front of the tank's skid plate, and three from the rear. Lower the skid plate with the jack and move it out of the way.

Position the jack under the fuel tank between the two fuel tank support straps, not under them. Place a folded towel or wide flat piece of wood atop the jack and carefully raise the jack up against the fuel tank. Be careful not to damage the tank with too much presure from the jack.

Remove the two long strap bolts from the rear of the tank, near the bumper. Allow the straps to drop out of the way. You shouldn't have to remove the straps completely to remove the tank.

Slowly lower the tank a bit to access the electrical connection. Disconnect this connection now.

You will see one large fuel filler hose and one smaller vent hose. They will have regular radiator type hose clamps on them. Disconnect these hoses and tightly plug the inlets on the tank with rags or duct tape to limit fumes and the possibility of a fire from a spark.

You should now be able to access the two fuel lines to the pump. Use the special tool by inserting it into the fuel line clamp and pushing toward the fuel line, not toward the pump connection. With the tool in place, you may have to push or wiggle the fuel line a little. The fuel line should disconnect with little effort, unless there is a buildup of dirt in the connection.

Lower the jack and remove the tank from under the vehicle.

Clean around the top of the pump to limit dirt from entering the tank when you remove the pump.

There will be a large locking ring around the top of the fuel pump. Use a brass or heavy plastic hammer to tap this ring in the counter-clockwise direction to unlock and remove it.

There will be a rubber "O-Ring" under the pump lip ring.

Lift the pump out and inspect the 'O'-Ring, the pump fuel pick-up screen, and inside of the tank for debris. BE CAREFUL! Flamable fuel fumes will be a BIG CONCERN.

Place just a little lubricant, like clean engine oil, around the 'O'Ring and insert the new AC Delco pump. Press the pump down so that the 'O'-Ring squeezes into place. Some AC Delco pumps may be supplied with new 'O'-Rings in the package. I found my old 'O'-Ring to be just fine for re-use.

Place the lock ring on the tank and rotate into place by tapping clockwise until it seats against the stops.

Raise the tank until you have enough room to reconnect the fuel lines. You do not need the special tool for this, just press the hoses onto the pump until you feel and hear the positive click of the clamps locking into place.

Reconnect the large and small fuel filler and vent hoses using the radiator type clamps.

If you are very certain that your electrical connection is in good condition, wasn't the original cause of your problems, and doesn't need a replacement pigtail, reconnect it to the pump, using diectric grease to seal out dirt and moisture. Be sure to replace the plastic security locking strap on the electrical connection.

Use the jack to continue raise the tank into place. No need to put any pressure on the tank, just raise it enough to replace the support straps. Replace the two long support strap bolts at the rear of the vehicle and tighten them appropriately.

Replace the skid plate and reconnect the battery cables.

Add at least five gallons to the tank before trying the new pump. Low fuel levels can allow the pump to be damaged.

With the driver's door closed so the chime will be silenced, turn the ignition to the "ON" position and listen for the whir of the pump. Start the vehicle and immediately inspect the tank area for fuel leaks.

No leaks? Fuel gauge registering o.k.? You are done. Fill up your tank and drive safely.

Rusty Metts

Does the engine continue to run on it's own after you gave it a squirt of starting fluid? If so, try replacing the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor. If the engine runs only on starting fluid but not on it's own I would suspect the fuel pump is bad.

Stand on the front and rear bumbers, and bounce the truck up and down

then jump off. the truck should bounce once are twice. If it bounces more

then that, replace shocks.

5 qts with a new filter.

My upper motor mount was bad and it was the cause of the thump. It happened when I let off the accelerator, turned a corner and accelerated, or just any time the rpm's changed. Open the hood, have someone start the motor while you watch the upper motor mount. If the motor jumps a lot and clunks it's probably the motor mount. Replace it yourself for about $60 to $100. Let GM replace it for about $350. Its a 1 hour job for you or them. Hope this helps. If the thump occurs on bumpy roads it could be a bad strut. A simple way to check this is to rock the right front of the car up and down by pressing your weight down on the hood near the wheel well until you have a good rhythm going, then let go and if the car car continues to rock up and down more than once or twice then the strut is worn. To more accurately check the motor mount watch it while someone holds the brake while shifting between reverse and drive while the motor is running, listen especially for the familiar thumping sound coupled with your observation. If the sound is occurring when driving, especially while turning or cornering, then the most likely cause is the C.V. axle. They are relatively easy to change, but it would be more like a loud clicking sound in this case. The price is usually around $100 dollars for a new one verses 20 - 35 for a used one. I would recommend a new one if you expect to drive your car for some time yet. You can buy a step by step repair manual for around $16 that would cover all of the above repair procedures.

You should check for codes first. it is an electronic transmission and changes gears based on information received from various sensors. If the throttle position sensor is bad, it will not shift gears correctly. mine wouldn't shift into second until 30 mph and wouldn't shift into 3rd until 55 mph.

See link.

A fuel tank trap door is pretty much a pipe dream of those faced with having to drop a fuel tank to replace the fuel pump. The answer is no.

it should say on your driver side bottom door panel. i would say close to or over 6000LBS

If you look through the grill on the front of the truck you will see it.

It looks just like the radiator and it is bolted to the front of the radiator.

It is about the same size as the radiator.

Wipe the transmission down with a rag! Clean up all the transmission fluid. Now start the vehicle and look under it see where it is leaking from. The front, the pan, or the rear? The front and rear will need a new seal. The pan will need a new gasket. You have to remove the transmission to replace the front seal. You may also want to change the filter while your this far along. Youre only talking about 1-2 hrs even for a first timer to replace the pan gasket and re seal and under $25..

Get under the driver side of the suburban by the driver door and their should be a linkage that you can loosen

don't know but...

Cal king = 72 X 84

inside the distributor underneath the rotor cap. You must line up rotor base to the proper location to remove cam sensor.

Exactly the same as any other nut. Spanner is just British terminology for wrench.

42 gallons is the tank capacity of Suburban.

It is in the driverside head between the front 2 spark plugs.

Just take it out and put the new one in. They are hard to pull out.

Most likely a problem with the power steering pump or a power steering fluid leak. Check the power steering fluid is at required level. (Power steering fluid dipstick check should show between the Hot and Cold marks with engine running.) HTH, Red

first you remove the front wheel guard (left or right side) .After you remove the door side wiring connector from body side main connector where located at the sill side inner pannel. after you will findout the door lock actuator terminal (at door side wiring connector)and act the actuator by a 12v battery.it is the way to release the latch lock of the door after you will open the door.

disconnect + battery terminal take out 2 bolt out of starter from the engine block take off the wires remebering where they go do in reverse order to reconnect

Try fax on auto liturature 1800-458-2734, www.faxonautolit.com 3901 carter ave. riverside ca. 92501. They have to sell the repair manual that are published by the vechile manufacture and use in the dealership. I have purchase books for GM and Ford. They are a little expensive but the diagram key numbers and parts numbers in them including what special tools you need are identical to the ones that will come up on the dealership computer screen. Wm Wolf

My 1998 K2500 Suburban is in overall great shape. I keep it maintained very well. When the air conditioner R134 charge leaked down, I tried extensively, but could not find the leak. Turned out to only be the schrader valves on the compressor (both high and low pressure lines). Didn't replace the valves. Just re-gassed the system and screwed on red and blue plastic caps which have "O" rings in them. No more problems. That has been about two or three months ago and the A/C works fantastically.

NO they are not.

take it back to the dealer and ask if you cannot find the dipstick although it should be located where every dipstick has been since they started putting them in cars... on the right side of the block in the rear!