GMC Suburban

If your going over bumps and it squeeks first check for worn out bushings, that is most common cause as bushings wear out there is more metal on metal contact. look for anything that may have come a little loose (shocks , bolts etc... ) that could also cause it if your driving on smooth pavement and it squeeks faster as you go faster you have bad U-joints get them replaced soon or they will fall apart and leave you stranded

Not much information to go on! If it is a very slight weep, or only slightly losing coolant within the engine, try using a 'Radiator Sealant'. There are several types, quite cheap to buy. This is a product that usually suspends minute pieces of cork (or similar) in a viscous liquid. You pour it into your radiator expansion tank; top up with coolant and then, fingers crossed, it will seal the leak if small enough. These products also normally lubricate the water pump too. If this remedy doesn't work, more analysis of just where and of what type the leak is, will be needed.

open the doors and look on the body for a black cap that covers a screw.

remove screw and The tailight assembly comes out. Then you have to unscrew the next cover on the back of the lens to get to the bulb.

The Drivers Door Module or Passenger Door Module on a 2003 suburban is also known as the "window / door lock" switch. These modules are located on each respective door, i.e. driver side door or passenger side door. It is the module that has the door lock/unlock switch and window up/down switch. Hope this helps...

In the rear of the vehicle attached to the rear evaporator, you will need to remove the complete assembly to replace the expansion valve......

I have a 02 silverado it is basicly the same rearend. The same thing happend to me, I was not as lucky i sustained severe damage. The cause of this was the keeper bolt in the center pin ether broke or backed its self loose allowing your center pin to "drop". Once the center pin drops the differental will basicly self desruct.

It's made out of a cheap pot metal. Some people tend to let the handle "snap" back to it's resting position after they open the door. That snap can, over time, cause some metal fatigue in the cheap metal used in those handles and they will break. To reduce the chance of that happening again, after pulling the handle to open the door keep your fingers behind the handle and slowly allow the handle to return to it's normal, resting position.

stand over your engine from driver side. look behind your kinda under your / maybe directly beneath your distributor. if its undone youll see a bare plug if not a ruber cable

1 billion miles to the gallon

take off brakes pull roter off.

it means you need to connect it to an odb 2 computer and get the code for whats wrong

It does not have a reset switch. It does have a relay and a fuse that controll function.

Unconnect battery. Remove cables and unscrew the old one located on the right side of the engine near the gearbox. Installation vice versa.

Inside the door latch is a rubber bumper. The large part of the striker rest on it. Over time the rubber crumbles away. You can buy a new latch for over $100 or find a 1/2" thick rubber mat and cut out a replacement. Use a flat head screw driver and pop the old one out. Just trace it. I squared the outer corners on mine. Just pop it back in and the rattle is gone. If you go to a wrecking yard most driver side latches are gone. If you find a latch the rubber is most likely wore out also. If it is not it will be shortly. Also the latches are a pain to take out. This way you don't have to remove the latch.

The 2007-2010 Chevrolet and GMC Suburban takes a special 12" rear wiper blade. (also 22" replacement windshield wiper blades on both sides front).

Inside fuel tank,

Open the hood. Pull up the "L" shaped rods that go downward on the back side of the headlight The headlight should fall out on it's own. Now unplug the power wire on the inside light bulb on the back side of the headlight. Twist the bulb counter clockwise and pull the bulb out. Push new bulb in and twist to look it in. Plug in wire and put it back in place. Remember to reinstall the rods to hold the headlight in.

Most likely no. I have had occasional luck with Slick 50 Automatic Transmission treatment but only sometimes.Its worth a try and sometimes it works

u can use a spanner if u need to fix something like a screw on the door

Towing capacity is listed in the owners manual. If you do not have one then your local dealer shoud be able to provide this information. Your tires will also have to match the load. If you want to tow something like a 3000 lbs camper, light truck tires would be in order. Also if the trailer is fairly heavy a transmission cooler would be a good idea if you do not already have one.

Well, when a car crashes there is a sensor in the front of the car wich if hit hard enough sends a pulse to another sensor which triggers a tank of nitrogen gas witch inflates the airbag. all this hapens in a split second.

Don't remove the pan with the engine hot. Get a large 'metal' drop or plastic to cover the ground underneith you. About 4'x4' square should do. Get a large oil - pan. I don't believe this pan has a drain on it so you will want to 'drain' the tranny before removing the complete pan. 1. Break all bolts. 2. Loosen rear bolts until almost removed. Work the bolts from the back to the front of the tranny. (Back is toward the wheels). Work the bolts in this manner to allow the rear of the pan to fall away from the case. So that all the fluid will drain from the back of the pan. I would recommend that you do not use a screw driver to release the pan from the case. 3. After the pan has mostly emptied. You will have to hold the pan and remove the rest of the bolts. - Be gentle so as to not ruin the pan's 'shoulder/rim' (the area where the bolts rest when installed)

If you look at the filter you will see a arrow on it and it should be pointing towards the engine.

These came specifically from a: 2003 Chevy Silverado 4x4 1. Using a 22mm socket, by hand, remove hubcap from wheel. 2. Lift vehicle with jack and support properly. 3. Using 22mm socket or vehicle lug wrench remove lug nuts, remove wheel and set aside. 4. Using a T55 Torx socket, remove the 2 caliper bolts. Set caliper aside. Do not let caliper hang from rubber brake line.

5. Using a 18mm socket remove the two caliper mount bolts. Remove caliper mount and brake rotor and set aside. 6. Using a couple small screwdrivers gently pry the dust cap from the hub. Be careful not to damage it.

7. Using a 1 3/8" or 35mm socket, remove the axle nut. 8. Using a 15mm socket remove the three hub mounting bolts.

9. Using a small hand sledgehammer and a couple screwdrivers, remove the hub assembly. Unplug the sensor wire and remove. Use the screwdrivers to keep the gap open while hitting hub with hammer.

10. Clean the hub mounting area completely with a wire brush. 11. Apply a very light coat of anti-seize compound to the hub and hub mounting area. Install the brake rotor shield and put hub over axle. TIP. Be Careful not to get anything on or near the ABS sensor, This may cause the ABS light to illuminate after completion!!

12. Apply thread locker to the 3 hub mounting bolts and install using a 15mm socket. 13. Install the axle nut using the 1 3/8" or 35mm socket. VERY IMPORTANT- Do not over or under torque this nut. Improper torque of the axle nut is the number one cause of premature bearing failure and does void the warranty!! For a 2003 Silverado the axle nut torque is 156 ft lbs. For any other vehicle please refer to the factory toque specs or you may email or call www.AutoPartsDirectToYou.com at 1-866-770-2771. 14. Install the dust cover by tapping lightly around edges. 15. Install the caliper mount and caliper using the 18mm socket and T55 torx. 16. Install the sensor wire using the included mounting hardware and plug the sensor in. 17. Install wheel and hub dust cover using the 22mm socket. Test drive and make sure all of your noises are gone!!

It does not have an Inertia switch, Only for used them. You will need to remove the fuel pump relay or fuel pump fuse to shut the fuel pump off.