Honda Accord

Yes.

Does the opening look like your ignition key would fit into it? If so, it is likely to allow you to shift the car out of park without inserting the key into the ignition. You would simply insert your key into the slot, and the shifter should unlock. Try it.

It is not unheard of for a new car to burn some oil during the initial few thousand miles. A quart within the first 6,000 miles is well within the industry standard of being normal. Sounds to me like the rings have not seated properly. Make darn sure you are using the correct weight oil which is 0w20. I recommend you change the oil/filter at this time. Now drive the car with some periods of full acceleration in short spurts. During the breakin period remember piston rings don't rely on their spring tension to seal against the cylinder bores. Instead, combustion gases work their way between the rings and the piston and force the rings outward. During the first few minutes of engine operation, it's important that the throttle be opened pretty far at lower rpm's to provide this high pressure. Otherwise, the rings won't burnish the cylinder walls properly, and the engine will have high volumes of blow-by-which means excessive oil consumption and shortened engine life. For the next few thousand miles, avoid constant speeds and throttle settings. Do not use the cruise control. It may end up that 1 quart every 6,000 miles is going to be what you have to live with and then again oil consumption may go way down over time.

In matters of Children being removed from the home, SRS stands for Social and Rehabilitational Services. It is a Federally run organization in each state that takes care of TANF, Food Stamps, Medicaid, and Child Protective Services. They do several things that involve the well being of children.

I assume you mean "replace" the brake pads instead of "repair". If that's so, then here's how to do it.

The piston will not compress with a clamp (like others) because of the internal parking brake setup. Remove the two caliper attachmnent bolts from the inside of the wheel assembly with a 14mm wrench (socket wrench makes it easier for the upper bolts). You might need to pry a little with a large screwdriver if the pads are tight on the rotor.

Remove the lid from the brake reservoir and if it is full of fluid, you might want to remove some of it because when you compress the piston, the fluid backs up into the reservoir and may overfill it. The fluid is an excellent paint remover, so be careful. A turkey baster works perfectlly.

The old pads should be removable by hand with a little jiggling. Pay attention to the way they were installed so that you can put new pads in the same way (in reverse). The piston must be retracted in order to allow for the thickness of new pads. Turn the piston clockwise and it will screw in to the retract position. It may be stiff at first, but after a revolution or so, it should turn easily. Watch that the boot does not get deformed or damaged. If it does not go in properly, you can help it with your finger. Be careful not to puncture it. To turn the piston, you need something like a very large screwdriver. I used the end of a bricklayer's hammer, which has a chisel on it about 1" across. The slot is about 1" long (diameter of the piston) and about 3/16" wide and I never heard of a screwdriver that big. Whatever you use, make sure it doesn't extend beyond the diameter of the piston or it may damage the boot. Screw the piston in until it is flush with the housing, and then back it out to align the slot so it is vertical (one of the protrusions on the inner pad rides in the slot). Check to see that the boot is uniformly retracted. If it isn't, carefully work it with a small (dull) tool to get it properly retracted. You might have to back the piston out a turn or two, and then turn it back in.

Apply anti-squeal to the face of the piston and the back of the pad, and insert the pad. You have to slide the outer housing so that the pad is all the ways back in order to install the outer pad. Apply anti-squeal to the steel side of the outer pad and install into the assembly the same way the old ones came out. You have to be patient and carefully compress the little spring clips to get them in; however, they will go in without force if you do it right. (It's easier if you have a helper to hold the caliper assembly while you install the pads).

Then, slide the complete caliper assembly over the rotor and replace the 14mm attachment bolts. I recommend that you do the brakes one side at a time. That way you won't get the inner pads mixed up and you will have a model to check if you get confused on how they should look assembled. The left and right inner pads are different because the brake wear indicator ( a steel strip) is located differently on the left and right.

Incidently, this works on all late Honda Accords with rear disks. I have a '92 and an '01 and they are essentially the same. They even use the same brake pad part numbers.

17mm

You access it through the fender. Turn the steering wheel fully one way or the other depending on which headlight you are removing. You must remove 2 plastic clips and pry the fender liner back. This is in your owner's manual.

alldata.com

Click the link.

It has a capacity of 17 gallons.

No such word as a pectagon A pentagon has five sides.

Yes!

local autozone .buy a fuzz buster for your radio it should help

Some say, "Take it to a repair shop. They have to be pressed on." This is completely incorrect. There are two alternative methods for accessing the front rotors (or the outer hub - as in the case of broken wheel stud replacement).

The design in question is the "hub over rotor" or "trapped rotor" used on the front wheels of these older Hondas. The outer bearing/hub has to be pulled apart from the inner bearing in order to remove the rotor.

First, remove the axle nut. Use a breaker bar and a 36mm socket. Leave the car on the ground to loosen the nut initially, then jack the car to remove the nut.

Two ways to do to the hub or the hub+rotor:

1)USING A SLIDE HAMMER

Four bolts connect the outer hub to the rotor. To remove only the outer hub (that is, leaving the rotor on) - as in the case of replacing broken wheel studs...

-remove the four bolts that connect the hub to the rotor

-attach a slide hammer (loaners available at most auto part stores) to two of the wheel studs (lug bolts)

-give the hammer a few good strokes (I've gotten it off in one stroke)

-to replace the hub, use the hammer to seat it back in place

Of course, if you need to remove the rotor in addition to the hub, disconnect and move the brake caliper assembly out of the way. Support the loose caliper assembly with a wire hanger so as not to damage the brake hose. Once the hub is off, the rotor is free to remove.

2)USING TWO LONG 10MM X 1.25 BOLTS

There are 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor; remove two of these (the ones closest to the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions) and re-insert two 10mm x 1.25 three inch long or longer well-greased bolts; when these two new bolts (they should be available at Ace Hardware) contact the backing plate (which will be supported against these bolts by the inner hub), alternate tightening them until the outer hub (attached to the rotor) separates and can be pulled away from the car. Remove all 4 bolts (the two new long ones and the remaining two original ones) and the rotor will separate from the hub.

NO! I just bought one and they are fast, fun to drive, and all around a great car!

The fuel filter is located in the left rear of the car ,next to the fuel pump. Just dont kink the hose when you reinstall it, very easy to do and the car will stall. Also there is a small filter that screws into the carb. This must be changed as well.It is located in the front of the carb but you must remove the air filter housing to reach it. 10 mm nuts hold it in place.

Inside the transmission.

It has no governor. The speed is computer controlled.

The flasher relay is located above the fuse box/fuse panel on the left side of the driver's foot-well. To access it, you will need to lower the black plastic panel above the brake and accelerator pedals. You no not need to remove any screws, the panel is held-on by 3 clips at the front (side closest to driver's seat). The relay itself can be found on the top-right corner. It is typically a black box. To be sure, turn on your 4-way flasher (assuming that this works) and follow the clicking sound. From my understanding, the flasher relay is a dual-relay, acting as the relay for both the 4-way hazards and the turn-signals.

my ignition on my Honda accord will not turn over all of a sudden.could this have something to do with the viper alarm? thanks

Valve adjustment needed is a possibility.

It is under the ash tray in the center console. Just remove the tray and you will see it..............

By loose, do you mean that the trunk lid won't close snugly?
My '96 has two rubber "feet" mounted on the body. These sort of cushion the trunk lid when it's closed. They are adjustable by screwing them in or out. If you have them on your car, you might try messin' with them. If one or both are missing, you can probably find them in a junk yard. That reminds me, I have one missing on my car. I adjusted the other one and now my trunk lid at least closes fairly dependably.

FriPilot

SAE 5w30 any major brand of your choice.

You should be running anti-freeze year round as it is a coolant also, hence the name "Anti-freeze/Coolant"