Honda Prelude

disconnect your batter first. then take the 3 wires off.... then the three bolts and u should be done

On a 85 prelude manual 5 speed there is a small square opening (approx 1 1/2" X 2') on the transmission housing where it mounts to the engine block just below and to the left (when facing front of car) of the number 4 spark plug. Look inside this opening and you will see the flywheel, the 20 degree BTDC mark is on the flywheel. There is a small needle shaped pointer on the engine block. Adjust the distributor so the timing mark on flywheel is in line with needle pointer. Since you asked where the marks are I assume you know how to time the engine. I.E. warm engine, plug vacuum hose at distributor, loosen and rotate distributor for your advance/retard.

The timing mark on flywheel may be dirty, I had to remove the flywheel cover under my engine by oil pan and hand crank engine counter clockwise with socket on the front of the crank inside fan belt pully to clean my flywheel. If fan belt pully bolt becomes loose, torque to spec and don't forget to remove socket from bolt when done cleaning and before you start engine....

If it is a v6, it is located next to the distributor. Facing the engine it is on the right side of fuel injectors just under injector cover. You can see it from the drivers side.

Another Location in 1998 Honda preludes for the EGR (at least in mine) is at the top left of the engine block, just behind it. Here's a crude Diagram.

........................Big Silver intake valve here

EGR here

__________________

| .................................|

| Engine block ............|

| .................................|

Why you would want to know is beyond me. I personally disconnected mine and plugged the hose leading out from it, bypassing it completely and making my engine run better.

There could be various reasons: fuel lines frozen, battery doesn't have enough cranking amps to start, starter is going bad, not enough antifreeze in radiator and/or it's resevoir.

"Super Handling" it means the car is equipped with ATTS or automatic torque transfer system, which increases torque to the outside wheel when cornering as the outside wheel must travel a farther distance than the inside wheel during a turn

Are you talking a stock motor and what year is the car and what motor does it have in it

Hondas used only a map sensor back in the 90s in place of a maf/map combo. The map sensor can be found on top of the throttle body and should be branded "Denso". The sensor coveres about 2" and is usually black.

On the back of the block, below the intake manifold.

The transmission serial number on a Honda Odyssey is located on the side of the transmission stamped on a tag. This is important when ordering replacement parts or completing repairs.

it is always going to be on the engine block

2.2 Liter DOHC. 195 HP.

it is under the dash behind the steering column it is about a 2 in. x 1 in. gray box hard to get out try not to break mounting tab or will hang down between your feet had to replace mine try to get CHILTON HONDA ACCORD/PRELUDE 1984-95 REPAIR MANUAL #30150 it will help tons i used it to completely rebuild mine

Could be a loose ground wire

Purchase 1 gallon of antifreeze and 1 gallon of distilled water. Mix them together 50/50. This is more than enough to refill your system after a drain and flush with some left over.

For the Ford , 4.9 liter / 300 cubic inch inline six cylinder engine :

The firing order is ( 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4 )

The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE ( when looking from the top )

The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap faces AWAY from the engine

The engine cylinders are numbered 1 to 6 , from front to rear

Just behind the glove box. Check a prelude forum or a repair manual for detailed instructions.

2.0 Liter Firing order is 1-3-4-2

.044 for stock h22

It's possible. However, if you're not willing to dish out the cash for a proper build, don't waste your time. A cheaply converted non-vtec motor will not last long and will have A LOT of problems. Hense, if you are willing to dish out the cash, here's a list of the minimun needed parts:

-b series vtec head (B16a/b16b/b18c/b18c1/b18c5/...)

-new rods (optional)

-higher CR pistions to take advantage of the higher flowing head

-block girdle (optional - added stability to the block at high revs)

-vtec conversion kit (will have to drill holes onto block to feed oil to head)

-b series vtec transmission (optional - will help utilize the narrow powerband)

-Some kind of a fuel management (Chrome, Neptune, AEM, Hondata,...)

Most people think they can just slap on a vtec head and be done with it. It's a lot of work and required some planning. By just slapping on a vtec head, you will not only lose power because of the lower CR but the reliability of your car has just dropped dramatically.

As to the "How to do the conversion" there's plenty of Honda devoted forums that talks a lot about these sort of things. Check them out.

Get bulb dye for the bulbs in the rear or use art supply colored plastic paper and slide a few sheets in between the gauges and the front panel

Stardard sport rim size 15" typre 205 55R15

Hmmm, which sensor? There are like 20 or so sensors on the car. :) The vehicle speed sensor is located under the intake manifold or the right side of the car ( sitting in it ) right beside the rear motor mount on the same side, It can barely be seen with the intake manifold on, and I would hazard a guess it is impossible to remove with the intake on. The sensor itself is on top of what you think the sensor is, the device below it simply turns a small shaft that turns the sensor, look for two small lines going to this power shaft and you will be very close

depends if it is carburated of fuel injected, carb has 105, and the fuel injected has 135