Honda Prelude

The main electric fuel pump is located just forward of the left rear wheel under the car. There is also two small electric fuel shutoff solenoid valves located on the carbs. One valve on each carb. Even if the main pump is working, if the carb solenoid valves are inop, no fuel will go to the carbs.

There is a temperature switch on the passenger side bottom of the radiator that has a wire connector attached to it. The switch screws into the radiator and then the wires connect to that. That switch is what tells the relays to turn the cooling fan on. If your fans don't turn and the engine is running hot you can test the switch using the following steps. 1. turn the ignition to the on position but don't start the engine. 2. disconnect the wire connector to the switch on the bottom of the radiator. 3. using a small jumper wire, jump the two wires inside the connector. If the fans turn on then you will need to replace the temp switch. If the fans still don't turn on then you will need to check the fuses, relays, and the fans themselves.

That depends on what you plan on using the vehicle for. If you drive with a lead foot, it may be worth it. It also depends on the state of the rest of the vehicle. If you need major body work or other serious repairs, it probably isn't worth it. You may have to upgrade the transmission to handle the extra power, maybe not. If you upgrade your HP you might want to upgrade your brakes as well! :)

ON my 96 Sable the VSS (Variable Speed Sensor) also known by OSS (according the the book I bought at Autozone) was located on the top of the transaxle near the driver's side front wheel. Standing beside the car's front left wheel and looking over into the car the sensor will be located on the top, backside of the transaxle and below the shifter location sensor. The easiest way to explain this is that is't located just below all the other stuff on the top of the transaxle but right on top of the transaxle. Just has one small bolt beside the connector toward the front of the car that held it in place. Hard to get to. Had to partially loosen from the top of the car and complete using a long 1/4 extension from beneath the car near the wheel. Note: The sensor on ours looked NOTHING like the one in the book. It wasn't in Autozone's or Oreilly's computer or the Wells picture book as of this entry. We were able to crossreference the part number on the sensor itself to a OEM part number OEM Brand Ford SS10697. (the part number on the sensor was F1DP 7M101 AA). Still looking for the part at the moment. The one in the book was long and black with a round white thingy in the end of it. This was a mechanical type. Our was a magnetic type which basically looked like a place to attach a connector on the transaxle wall. The wiring connector was a two sided clip that plugged into the sensor connector which faced the rear of the car. To sum up.. the sensor inserts into the transaxle straight from the left side of the housing and toward the center of the engine. The sensor Connector faces the rear of the car.

How many bolts are on the wheels? 5 or 8 it has 8 bolts

i would use 5w30 or a 10w 30 Vavoline conventional or max life

Code P1491 Means: EGR Valve Lift Insufficient Detected EGR Valve needs to be replaced

Yes I put a 240sx coupe bodykit on my 91 prelude. the only problem i had was the sideskirts wiere 1/8th of an in shorter. but fit like a glove

Cooling fan not working? Water pump not working Radiator plugged Hoses collapsing Airbound Cooling fans do work. Like when she is on the hwy, she's fine. Stop & go stuff really gets to her. Also, she may run fine one insance, then if I shut her off and restart her the overheating begins, thenEngine overheats When a car or truck overheats idling, in town, on the highway, while towing, etc. it is important to find out the reason to prevent engine damage. First, with the engine cold, make sure the radiator is full of coolant; if it is low, fill it and keep the radiator cap off while the engine idles to insure all air is bled out of the system. Check the coolant level daily; if the coolant goes down without visible leaks, it may be a head gasket starting to leak which will also cause the heater to blow cold air due to the lack of available coolant. If the coolant stays full, but the car continues to overheat, the next step is to replace the thermostat in the engine and flush the cooling system if that has not been done over the last few years.Buy a thermostat at a parts store and a PRESTONE flush kit which has excellent directions on the package.After completing these steps and the vehicle still overheats, have your cooling fan sensor/switch ( if equipped)checked out to insure it is coming on. Water pumps are seldom the cause as they are mechanical and will continue to work until their bearings give out. Finally, the radiator itself is often the problem as it tends to build up corrosion internally which prevents it from transfering engine heat to the coolant. Remove it and have it 're-cored'. One of these steps should solve the problem. after fiddling with the fluid levels, shutting her off and starting a few times she is right. Any ideas??

You can find the Diagrams in a Helms or Chilton manual.

Alternatively they are available online. See the Related Links.

clogged or bad catalitic converter

Assuming that you want it to work correctly, you don't. Install a new cable instead. A new cable will be inexpensive, easy to install, and it will work.

There are many forums where this has been asked. just used detailed searches in google. Type something like "ecu flashing codes 89 prelude" in google. should get some good stuff.
I know 6 short flashes is temp sending unit.

I can offer the timing procedure for my '87. Timing is done with the engine running (non-static method). Hook things up, check to make sure no wiring will get caught while you're using the light and adjusting the distributor. DON'T DO YOUR FIRST TIMING UNTIL ALL ITEMS ARE SET UP AND YOU'VE CHECKED TO MAKE SURE YOU WONT GET SOMETHING CAUGHT IN THE MOVING PARTS OF THE ENGINE. BE SURE ITEMS SUCH AS NECKLACES, BRACELETS, HAIR, CLOTHING, OR WIRES ARE REMOVED OR TIED AWAY FROM THE MOVING PARTS OF THE ENGINE. WARM UP ENGINE AND OBSERVE MOVING PARTS. WHEN ENGINE IS WARMED UP (RADIATOR FAN COMES ON), TURN OFF ENGINE. DO HOOKUPS AND VERIFICATION FOR SAFETY. START ENGINE AND BEGIN WORK SLOWLY, CAREFULLY. A timed engine will "hum" and make your car fuel-efficient. Don't rush. It's not complicated but this needs precision on a running engine. BE CAREFUL. SAFETY FIRST! Timing is done with a timing light shined on the timing mark on the flywheel while the engine is running. The timing mark is located on the flywheel. To see it, there is a small "porthole" about 1" square covered by a square rubber plug. The hole/plug is located on the FRONT of the engine, about 4" from the centerline on the passenger's side. It's down about 5" from the #3 or #4 spark plug. When you pull off the hole's black, square plug: There are three colored marks on the flywheel. You may not see them until the flywheel is rotated or the car is running with the timing light shining on the "pointer" in the hole. THE GREEN MARK IS FOR TIMING. The Red is top-dead center. The White is ???? There is a pointer visible thru the hole which is the alignment item used to align the green mark. The adjustment for the timing is done by rotating the distributor (you must loosen the distributor screws a little). Timing should be done with the engine at the right idle speed, so be sure the tachometer is checked after the car is warmed up (my idle speed is around 750-800 rpm). Your idle speed will be specified on the underside of engine hood, on a sticker showing emissions information. The distributor is to be moved with a little friction from the holding screws so that it doesn't change after you set it and before you tighten one of the screws. Check the timing again afterwards to be sure the distributor wasn't moved during the tightening procedure. So CHECK THE DISTRIBUTOR FOR MOVEMENT BEFORE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. Tighten/loosen at least one of the screws so you can move the distributor but not allow the distributor to change position after you get the timing right. FOR OTHER SETUPS: The timing mark is often located on the end of the engine(near distributor)on the passenger's side, near the main belt pulley. This 5" round pulley probably has all the accessory belts on it (usually three belts) and is located about 12" down from the top of the engine. There is a notch on the pulley that is used as a match-up mark to the mark on the engine block ABOVE the pulley. The mark on the engine is likely about 3" by 1" square with lines on it--perhaps even the numbers indicating the degrees before (or after) top-dead center. Either way, if the specified timing is 15 degrees BEFORE top-dead center, then look for the line with a "15". In this example there might be a "20" on one side of the fifteen, and a "10" on the otherside. MARK THE PULLEY WITH WHITE-OUT, WHITE PAINT, OR CHALK so you can see it when the engine is running. FOR ALL SETUPS: TIMING LIGHT: The timing light is hooked up to the battery (red/black clamps) and the #1 SPARK PLUG WIRE. Be careful before starting engine that the slack in the wires doesn't get caught on moving parts. Once the car is running, point the timing light at the white mark on the pulley. The timing light strobes on/off with each electrical pulse given to the #1 spark plug wire. While pointing the light, you move the distributor, slightly at first, left-right to watch how the white mark moves back and forth in front of the engine mark-lines. If the distributor is too loose, turn the vehicle off and tighten one of the screws a little and see if the distributor has some friction when moving it. Once the distributor has the timing mark aligned with the pointer or engine mark, then tighten one of the distributor nuts (not too tight) and use timing light to recheck. If the marks don't align, then loosen the distributor and realign; tighten, then check. Turn off engine. Tighten distributor. Start engine, recheck marks and if OK, TURN OFF ENGINE. Loosen all the timing light wires and remove from engine compartment. If you do this while the engine is running, you'll have a good possibility of catching one of the wires in the engine (bad scene). CONSIDER a valve adjustment after the timing if you want. Some vehicles have one or two vacuum hoses or electrical devices disconnected while doing the timing.

The diameter of the rims for the 1991 Honda Prelude is six inches. Check out a local car dealership for more information about the car or if interested in purchasing it.

The O2 sensor on a Honda Prelude is found on the exhaust pipes of the vehicle. They are located near the catalytic converter which is place on the underside of the chassis.

Are you referring to a loud exhaust sound? If so, it could be (Going from the engine back to the tailpipe) a cracked or leaking exhaust manifold - a leaking exhaust pipe - a leaking catalytic converter - a leaking muffler. That covers the exhaust system. If you are talking about a noisy clattering sound in the engine, you could possibly need a valve adjustment.

you have to take the center console loose and raise it over the top of the shift knob. there you will finrd that the shift bag is attached to the shift knob by a zip tie. break the zip tie and unscrew the shift knob. that's it.

Any Auto Parts store can provide you with this information.

If I am right in thinking the Prelude mirror is stuck to the front screen

there are two ways to re attach it

Loctite make an adhesive specially for that purpose

or the easiest way is to buy a double sided adhesive mirror pad

from your local car accessory shop

In either case make sure the screen is spotlessly clean before re attaching the mirror.

I am not sure about a 1990 model, but on my 1988si (with a sunroof), the exit points of these tubes are located below the rear window pillars, accessible through the trunk (? - can't recall for sure), OR the rear wheel wells. I had a major problem with water building up in the space between the headliner and the roof, causing water to cascade into the interior after it rained. For months I used a car cover whenever it rained, then found out from another Honda owner that the tubes just needed to be cleaned. Once you locate these tubes, remove the small plugs (each with "X" shaped slits to allow drainage), and run a wire (coathanger) up through them to remove dirt. I left the plugs off for better drainage. After that, I have never again had any roof drainage problems.

My '88 Prelude Si 4WS had a short in the steering column. My "guys" pulled wires to a toggle switch that they free-placed in the coin tray. It gets hot . . . But, the running lights/brake lights work independently of the headlights!

2.0S B20A3: 2L SOHC 12 valve with dual-sidecraft carburator, 104hp@5800rpm 111lb-ft@4000rpm

2.0SI B20A5: 2L DOHC 16 valve with PGM-Fuel Injection, 135hp@6200rpm 127lb-ft@4000rpm

2.1SI B21A1: 2.1L DOHC 16 valve with PGM-Fuel Injection, 140hp@5800rpm 135lb-ft@5000rpm

very carefully

The easiest answer to this question is "www.installdr.com", there is a complete .pdf including diagrams on how to install the stereo for a 1992 prelude.