Jeep Liberty

I would try adding some fuel injection cleaner with your next tank of gas. This has helped me with minor engine misses and/or hard starting conditions. HAVE THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER AND THE FUEL INJECTORS CLEANED. It sounds like this did not start with the last plug change. I have found in the past that the "Coils on Plugs" seem to start loosing the spark about 50,000 to 65,000 miles on my Fords. It happens cause they run so hot. At least here in the Texas heat....Anyway, it sounds like you have one weak plug or one weak coil. There is a way to check these coils to find the bad ones and I'm sure someone one the web will tell you. But, I'm lazy, if I'm going in there for one coil, I will do them all and the plugs at the same time. My luck would be to have another one go bad after a week or so, so, change them all. It is always worth the investment.

EPA highway (mpg): 21 and EPA city (mpg): 20 You will probably average around 18 if you are lucky.

The factory installed size is the best. Check the label on the driver side door jamb.

Total capacity is around 9 quarts.

pull up the lever to 4wd hi while traveling below 50mph. Use command trac, (manual 4wd) only when surfaces are slick, slippery, gravel, sand, dirt...never on dry asphalt.

real easy, go to your local autoparts store, you will need both hood lifts, they can be installed with nothing more than a screwdriver, hope this helps

Low washer fluid.

Low washer fluid.

Depends on the quality of the shocks you buy. Any auto parts store can quote you the price. Give them a call.

Brown--tail light.licence plate, and marker lights. Yellow- left turn signal and brake light.

Green- right turn signal and brake light.

White--ground

Pull off the section of dash that houses the radio. Begin at the top just above the AC vents. The black center section and trim pieces are attached and come out together. Pull firmly starting at the top and work your way down. there are six clips holding the dash section in place. The bottom clips are large and meant to be removed last.

Once you have the dash section removed, there are 4 Philips head screws on the front of the radio. Remove them and the radio will slide out.

I had this same exact issue a few weeks ago on my jeep liberty 2002 limited v6 engine I personally took the jeep to my mechanic and sit and watched him check my car a million different ways. He then advised me that i needed a new latch since it would work well when he hit the manual release he felt the pieces was defaulted....However the day i got the part back and he replaced it the issue did not go away....After about and hour working and moving around stuff on my back gate and door he discovered the answer. Which is the wires in the door where extremely long and the one to the to the latch was being cut off all he had to do was replace the wires. So if you are having this problem have your person check the wires in the door where the door is attached to the main part of the car.

Yes.

because jeep locks and latches suck.

you have to replace them for a small fortune.

good luck

A 2004 Jeep Liberty uses DOT 3 brake fluid.

May have a loose wire on the oil sender . There might be too much oil is says right on the dipstick do not overfill Keep it in the SAFE area

on the left side underneath the dash next to the pedals ----

I have the same problem. The dealer says to forget it because it costs a small fortune to repair.

In the cap on the front pass side of the engine.

It is probably the lo wash (low washer fluid) light.

You have to remove the driveshaft to flat tow a 2wd Jeep.

You have to remove the driveshaft to flat tow a 2wd Jeep.

On a 2003 Renegade, the microswitch that runs the idicator lite for the 4 wheel drive is prone to slipping out of postion, leading to a false indication of the vehicle being in 4 wheel drive. This apperantly is an ongoing problem, that is more costly to fix than it is worth.

Remove kick panel at drivers left foot area. CONTROLLER - BLUE = "Brake Output to bumper plug" The "Brake Output Wire" IS located behind the kick panel. It is a 16 gauge RED wire with green tape on it and is NOT bundled with all of the other wires. It was NOT labeled as the "Brake Output" but the electronic brake pin within the bumper plug (located @ 5 o'clock) IS RED. This is what the Controller BLUE wire should be attached too. CONTROLLER WHITE = Ground = Remove one of the 8mm nut's located behind the kick panel, against the side wall where all the grounds are attached. Use a round eye end to connect. Replace nut and re tighten. CONTROLLER - BLACK = "Hot Wire" = Easily attached directly to the positive post of the battery. Feed wire through fire wall by removing the round black rubber hole plug/seal and using a small nail (#8 finish nail or ice pick) poke a hole in this 2" diameter black rubber gasket located 6" above where the major bundle goes through your firewall. Be careful not to damage black rubber seal. CONTROLLER - RED = "Brake Pedal COLD Wire" = Attach this to the mostly WHITE WITH DARK GREEN TRACER STRIPE - located in the # 2 socket. (This is the 4th socket farthest away from the brake pedal). I found it difficult to use a "in line" splice connecter as I used 12 gauge wire to my controller. Instead, I cut this WH/DG # 2 wire and pigtailed in the RED BRAKE CONTROLLER wire using a wire nut. BE CAREFUL! - there is not much slack in the wire due to the tightly wound bundle. A good place to mount the controller is to the far left directly below the "fold out glove box" by your left knee. Do not mount it any further than 1" left of the left side of the glovebox. Otherwise, your door will hit it! I have photos if you need them

If I understand this right then the "type 41" is just the type of gauge that is used. It has something to do with the patents of the design. Something about the way the bulbs are installed or somthing like that. Hope this helps you. Good luck.Brad.

answer: I have had several customers with this question- the "type 41" is painted on the

front of the gauge. when the sunlight hits it just right it appears to be a light. it is not a warning lamp.

Either the switch itself is defective, or more than likely the Blower Motor Resistor Pack is defective. This is a common symptom of a defective Resistor Pack.

I do not see aftermarket replacement rear wiper blades nor rear wiper refills listed in the aftermarket wiper catalogs for the 2004 Jeep Liberty. This would possibly indicate that the rear wiper was a proprietary technology/design and you may have to go to the dealer for the parts and possibly labor. Before doing this (because its usually a little more expensive at the dealer), you may want to visit some internet forums and see if there's other ideas out there. Google "jeep liberty forums" then search "rear wiper" once in the forums. I'm sure there's rapport on this topic.

As far as front wiper blades, The 2004 Jeep Liberty takes 19" replacement windshield wiper blades on both sides front and aftermarket wipers are available. Note, when buying wipers be sure to always lookup your vehicle make, model and year in the application guide book at the store, or now-a-days you can Google 'lookup wiper size'.

You want to look this up because correct wiper fit is more than correct length, it's also proper attachment. Not all attachments fit all arms. Using the application guide or looking up wiper size online will avoid headaches of buying the right lengths with the wrong attachments.