Mazda 323

Between 6 - 8 degrees BTDC

If the starter motor is turning over, we must also assume that the engine is also turning over. Have someone else watch the crankshaft pulley to see if it turns while cranking the engine over to confirm that the starter is engaging with the ring gear. There are three possibilities: no spark to the spark plugs; no fuel pressure to the injectors; broken camshaft timing belt. Each of these things you will need to troubleshoot to determine how to fix. No spark: remove the high tension ignition lead from the distributor cap and have a second person hold it near a metal ground (such as the air cleaner box). If a spark jumps from the lead to ground, ignition is okay. If not, you will need to replace some or all of your ignition parts (distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, ignition leads, etc). When you have the distributor cap off, check for moisture, this will sometimes swamp out the spark. To test fuel pressure you will need a test gauge, 0-100 PSI (700 kPa), some gas line hose and hose clamps. Remove the fuel line from the top of the filter (located on the firewall) and attach the test gauge with hose and clamps. Turn the ignition switch on but do not crank the engine; you should see 40 PSI (280 kPa). If no, you either have a plugged fuel filter or failed fuel pump. The fuel filter is easy to replace, the pump is not. To test the camshaft timing belt, you will need to remove the plastic belt cover at the

The first thing you need to do is remove the screws located by the inside door handle and the arm rest on the door. Then you need to remove the other screw located by the door hinge and then carefully ply the paneling off, starting near the bottom.

pedestrian.... preferably a coon

on the fire wall under hood behind motor a silver pop can looking thing with 1 line on top and one on bottom on the fire wall under hood behind motor a silver pop can looking thing with 1 line on top and one on bottom on the fire wall under hood behind motor a silver pop can looking thing with 1 line on top and one on bottom

You start by doing diagnosis. This lets you figure out what's wrong with them, and lets you know exactly what you need to repair. You don't want to change the switch if the problem is a faulty wire, after all.

i guess it depends on the model year, i own a Mazda 121 da with a 1.3 8v b3 engine, i have found a Mazda 323 with a 1.3 16v b3 engine in. Ive been told they fit easily. as the engine block is virtually the same, the mounts maybe the issue

my issue is the wiring.

I'm going from a 1.3 carburettor setup to a 1.3 fuel injected lump.

Yes, You can it. only fabricated right engine mount and move brake disty box. use stock gearbox.

I have a Mazda 323 1990 and the same problem. So far (as well as a full service) no-one has been able to diagnose but I have found someone on the web with similar problems and they advised that it could be the Coolant Temperature senosr or the oxygen sensor. The former can be tested with a scan tool and by comparing actual ambient air temp and the reading the CTS is giving. It should be within 2/3 degrees of each other. I understand the OS cannot be tested. If there is a problem the CTS needs to be changed.

To change the parking lights on a 1997 Mazda 323, first, open the hood and locate the headlight assembly. Remove the screws or clips securing the assembly, then gently pull it out. Disconnect the wiring harness from the back of the assembly and twist the parking light bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it. Replace the old bulb with a new one, reassemble the parts, and test the lights to ensure they are functioning properly.

Finally solved the problem .... PCM failed and destroyed the coils ... also new coils so when
trying a known good PCM had no spark

That depends on your speed. Do distance, rate and time and you could figure it out.

Read the instructions that came with it or contact the manufactuar and they could send you replacement instructions or tell you how.

I cannot find a photo on a 1992 Mazda 121 or the 1.3 engine. However I would suspect the firing order & connections would be the same as the 1.8L engine. I will post a link showing the connections on the 1992 1.8 L engine. Try this connection.

The igniton timng is 6 degrees BTDC

I've recently managed this on my 1999 demio. You need to unscrew the screw at the top of the rear light array (Philips-type screwdriver). This loosens the light array at the top, just enough for you to get your fingers behind it. Lower down, there are two lugs which secure the bottom of the light array. With a bit of jiggling the lugs will disengage, releasing the whole array - during this process, it feels as though the lugs are going to snap off!! Once the light array is in your hands, just twist the plastic holder of the bulb you want to change anticlockwise, remove the bulb (same fitting as a bayonet domestic bulb) and reverse the process to re-install. Hope this helps.

when you find that when you acelerate you hear the engine noise but cant feel the increase in speed means that clutch plate is worn and is slipping.

Use the Nissan pressure plat and the Mazda clutch plate and you'll also need to manufacture a bush to support your spigot shaft.

No, not if you're describing like an electrical switch, however power is controlled via the fuses

Its likely either the battery connections (terminals) are dirty, or where they connect is...or the battery while showing a charge is bad when on a load.

If it starts with a jump from another car...it's the battery.