Mazda 3

Well! I have been tring to answer as many questions as possible! So far it has been pretty easy peasy! But this one stummped me! So I asked my friends and these are the answers I got:

Anyone Anyone here with a 3 or 5 that their rear brakes seem to wear out faster than the front?

Typically the front should be worn out faster. Is this a design issue or is it because the brake force distribution thing working as expected?

I don't get rear wheel lockups or anything though. Vhere with a 3 or 5 that their rear brakes seem to wear out faster than the front?

Typically the front should be worn out faster. Is this a design issue or is it because the brake force distribution thing working as expected?

I don't get rear wheel lockups or anything though.

The Mazda 3 rear brakes produce more brake dust and wear out faster. It seems this is the way it was designed.

Its typical. A friend wore down to metal backing plate on the rears and the fronts still has lots of life.

really one of a kind wor....

most cars actually get to replace rear more often than the front, not only Mazda 3

example: 05 Audi A4, could have replaced rear pad / rotors at 25k but now at 40k the front brakes are still over 50%...

04 Mazda 3 GT, replaced the rear pad and machined rear rotors at 50k, now at 65k the front brakes are still going (40 to 50%)

most Honda has to replace rear brakes between 45k to 55k range and front brakes at 50k to 60k ~ of course, i have seen a few ppl have to do their brakes at 100k, but that's pretty rare....

Why? Does this happens on newer cars only with brake force distribution?

I don't know about you guys, but for my cars, I replace front pads twice before I replace the rear once...

I don't think 'most' is the reality...

I had my front pads replaced due to the noises it produces (TSB repair) at about 10000km. I am close to 56000km now, I replaced my front rotors and all my pads. My mechanic laughing at me, telling me that I have a lot of pads left on both front and rear.

Upon checking on the old pads, the rear pads are about the same thickness as the front. Does that mean my front wears out more?

There was an issue with the dirty rear pads, if you insist, Mazda can replace it free of charge. However, not everyone gets the same treatment. Newer pads are not as dusty.

From what I know, the new pads are softer. That means they are more gentle on the rotors, thus you might have to replace them more often.

I am using Powerslots (from Brembo), and Hawks HPS front, Hawks Ceremic rear. These pads are cleaner than the OE pads in general. I just wonder how long they can last. They do have excellent braking power....

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Why? Does this happens on newer cars only with brake force distribution?

I don't know about you guys, but for my cars, I replace front pads twice before I replace the rear once...

I don't think 'mo ... [/quote]

i think for ppl who does a lot of city driving, and if they light brake all the time, rear brake will wear out faster than the front for sure (initial braking power always goes to the back then to the front, to prevent nose dive)...so if u know ur braking time, just brake and stop ~ u can probably going to wear out the pad evenly?!

When decoded, the VIN tells the country and year of manufacture; make, model and serial number; assembly plant; and in some cases it even identifies equipment specifications. The system goes something like this: sequence for characters is first A to Z, then 1 to 9, and last 0. The letters "I", "O" and "Q" are typically omitted from system. The vehicle identification number is divided into four parts: * World Manufacturer's Identification (WMI - three characters) * Vehicle Description Section (VDS - five characters) * The VIN Accuracy Check Digit * Vehicle Identification Section ( VIS - eight characters) The first character in the WMI sequence represents the country where the vehicle was manufactured. Countries like the United States (1 or 4), Canada (2) and Mexico (3) are represented by numbers while other countries such as Germany (W), Italy (Z) and Japan (J) are represented by letters. The second character refers to the manufacturer. The characters can be either letters or numbers. For example: Jaguar (A), Dodge (B), Chrysler (C), Jeep (J), Buick (4), Cadillac (6) or Saturn (8). The third character represents the vehicle type or manufacturing division. The vehicle description section consists of five characters (the 4th to 8th characters) which identify everything from the body style, engine type, and braking system to model, series, restraint system, etc. The 9th character is a VIN accuracy check digit which verifies the previous VIN numbers. It is determined by carrying out a mathematical computation developed by the Department of Transportation (DOT). The vehicle identification section includes the last eight characters in the VIN number. The numbers identify the model year (10th character) and the assembly plant for the vehicle (11th character). A number or letter may represent the model year. For example: 1998 (W), 2000 (Y), 2007 (7) or 2008 (8). The 12th to 17th characters are the actual serial number of the vehicle-these last 6 digits make the vehicle unique (think of DNA). It can also help to identify whether the vehicle was the first, the hundredth, or the last vehicle off the manufacturer's assembly line.

When decoded, the VIN tells the country and year of manufacture; make, model and serial number; assembly plant; and in some cases it even identifies equipment specifications. The system goes something like this: sequence for characters is first A to Z, then 1 to 9, and last 0. The letters "I", "O" and "Q" are typically omitted from system. The vehicle identification number is divided into four parts: * World Manufacturer's Identification (WMI - three characters) * Vehicle Description Section (VDS - five characters) * The VIN Accuracy Check Digit * Vehicle Identification Section ( VIS - eight characters) The first character in the WMI sequence represents the country where the vehicle was manufactured. Countries like the United States (1 or 4), Canada (2) and Mexico (3) are represented by numbers while other countries such as Germany (W), Italy (Z) and Japan (J) are represented by letters. The second character refers to the manufacturer. The characters can be either letters or numbers. For example: Jaguar (A), Dodge (B), Chrysler (C), Jeep (J), Buick (4), Cadillac (6) or Saturn (8). The third character represents the vehicle type or manufacturing division. The vehicle description section consists of five characters (the 4th to 8th characters) which identify everything from the body style, engine type, and braking system to model, series, restraint system, etc. The 9th character is a VIN accuracy check digit which verifies the previous VIN numbers. It is determined by carrying out a mathematical computation developed by the Department of Transportation (DOT). The vehicle identification section includes the last eight characters in the VIN number. The numbers identify the model year (10th character) and the assembly plant for the vehicle (11th character). A number or letter may represent the model year. For example: 1998 (W), 2000 (Y), 2007 (7) or 2008 (8). The 12th to 17th characters are the actual serial number of the vehicle-these last 6 digits make the vehicle unique (think of DNA). It can also help to identify whether the vehicle was the first, the hundredth, or the last vehicle off the manufacturer's assembly line.

You can use link below to look for a manual online and down load it using one of the torrent download programs. I found one - over 2900 pages covering everything. http://torrentscan.com/

The 2008 Mazda Tribute has the newer style and more rare "pinch tab" wiper arms on the front and a fairly specialized "snap claw" rear wiper arm attachment. See sources and related links below for installation videos. Also, purchase the replacement blades first and there will be additional instructions/illustrations on the replacement packages - note that not all wipers will fit on pinch tab arms and snap claw arms so be sure to reference the make, model and year of your vehicle for the brand wipers you choose to purchase. The video below shows this in the reverse order but you'll get it.

Yokohama

This question actually refers to a Mazda "6" that stalls when in the stopped position. Sorry about the miss printed info.

Not sure what you mean by "Globe" however... Mazda 3 headlight bulb lamp replacement: Purchase the correct replacement headlight bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the headlight bulb lamp replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

It looks like the 'zoom-zoom' song for Mazda was taken from a song used in a popular Brazilian martial art called Capoeira. Check this out on YouTube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKAlV3fuuMs&feature=related

.044"-.052" would be fine

There should be a button on the top of the seat near where the shoulder belt comes down the seat. If that doesn't release the seats check in the trunk that the lock hasn't been switched to the locked position.

You can change it out for a louder horn, such as what I am doing. "Twistedthrottle.com" offers an air horn that is easy to install. I have put it on two of my previous cars, and two motorcycles. It is called a stebel air horn and it can be installed in under an hour. The Mazda 3's stock horn is lame. It is located directly behind the front bumper on the drivers side just above the fog light. It can be accessed by removing the black plastic cover under the front bumper and left wheel well. Since it is difficult to access and requires about an hour's worth of work to remove and replace. I decided to make mine sound cool (not just loud), therefore, I replaced it with a Wolo Badboy compact air horn. The sound quality and volume are much improved and the horn's cool factor has increased by 100%.

under the dash passenger side

yes

If you're going down a straight stretch of road and let go of the steering wheel and it pulls to the left or right its prolly out of alignment. check your tire pressure first though. one low tire and it'll make the car go left or right

4.4 quarts - start off by adding 4 quarts, then top off as needed. It's better to start off with too little oil than too much.

I'm having a friend do my clutch its 200 for the clutch 89 to resurface the. Fly wheel and 350 for labor

Speed3 Mazdas have only one transmission. It is a 6 speed Manual transmission.

No you must have the keys paired with the new cluster at the dealer. Don't ask how I know

if you are talking about the "spark plugs" pull the plastic cover off the top of your engine. you will see four wire harnesses in a horizontal pattern. disconnect the harnesses from the adapters. the adapters are bolted down. the bolts look funny. they are a nut PERMINATELY connected to a threaded rod. lets call them "bolt-rods". a few of them will have clips on them. these clips are for the engine cover. pop them off and remove the bolt-rods. the adapters pull right out. with a flashlight, you can see the sparkplugs deep in the holes. Oh, DO NOT MIX ANY OF THESE PARTS. EACH ONE NEEDS TO GO BACK EXACTLY WHERE THEY CAME. the sparkplugs require a special socket to remove them. they have a ceramic sleeve on them. if you crack it, peices may fall into your cylender. over a short time, this will DESTROY your engine. If you do crack one, use a vacuum to suck up the shards before completely removing the plug. replce the plugs with newones the same size. there are a lot of different types of spark plugs on the market. find some that suit you. install those plugs. be careful not to cross thread the hole. again, very bad if you do. use the socket without the wrench to get the plugs halfway screwed in. then tighten them snug. do not over tighten the plugs. that will shatter the ceramic. install the adapters, bolt rods, wire harnesses. this is critical. the wire harnesses must be plugged into the right adapter. otherwise your engine will missfire and run bad. install the clips for the engine cover and press the evgine cover into place. done!

Underneath the wipers

1. Mazda doesn't make an M3. That is BMW, my friend. But keep dreaming. 2. The answer lies in your service manual that you received with your car. You should probably read it sometime.

Reset the change oil light on Mazda 3

no.